automatic 727 modified / shifting issue?

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dazedand confused

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I have a recently rebuilt and lightly modified 727 automatic transmission that was done by a guy that is professional and takes his time to rebuild the trannys . he put in kevlar bands and a racing shift kit. I have a factory kick down linkage on my 4 barrel edelbrock 600 carb . carb sits on an edelbrock performer intake and has the edelbrock chrysler trottle braket as well. my issue is that it down shifts at low speeds when I have to go around vehicles ect but at higher speeds like on a highway or interstate it wont down shift to pass a vehicle and have to manually shift it into second gear ? . I did like what someone suggested by having tthe vehicle off and in park and have somone press the gas pedal to the floor and I made the adjustment so the linkage pushes the linkage on the side of the transmission all the way back but it still does the same thing ??? is it because of the racing shift kit??
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Question #1: Why is there a nut and bolt in the slot on the kickdown rod?
Some do that so the TP rod is already part way back before the throttle is pressed and the trans shifts later and firmer.
Problem is, some don’t realize it can also cause the throttle to not open all the way.

In my experience TF transmissions always lacked in the hi way speed kickdown.
 
could not find a longer factory adjustable rod so I had to adjust and compensate for a gap between trottle rod and kickdown shaft adjuster.
 
Some do that so the TP rod is already part way back before the throttle is pressed and the trans shifts later and firmer.
Problem is, some don’t realize it can also cause the throttle to not open all the way.

In my experience TF transmissions always lacked in the hi way speed kickdown.
 
yep thats why when I finish with my project street & strip 65 dart the 904 automatic will be a full manual valvebody with no kick down linkage
 
Find the "someone" who suggested flooring the gas pedal to adjust the kickdown and give them a good talking to..Always open the carb by hand to adjust the kd. No, the shift kit didn't do that. We're all gonna need to know where you got that yellow spring..
 
CudaFactHackJob
They said while engine is off have someone push down on the gas pedal all the way and check the and adjust linkage if it has slack in it and then take it for a test drive and if need be readjust till it shifts right ? that yellow spring with the black stripe came from a mopar parts restoration website . its for a 340/ 360 small block in an abody factory muscle car with a 2 or 4 barrel carb . the red one came from the same place. I also had to cut and weld in an extension on the kick down rod .
 
Yes I see that you again said that they said that you push on the gas pedal; just like I saw it the first time. That would be a violation of Official Rules on Service and Repair of Mopar Vehicles.
 
U have to have the wrong top rod if u needed that bolt and nut in it. Looks like 2bbl linkage. U need 4 bbl linkage and rod. Did u change the lever on the trans? Sure u can cobble it up to kinda work asu have found out. Kim
 
The throw on the carburetor crank needs to be the same as the throw on the transmission crank. Only then can you start adjusting the length of the rods.
 
This top rod isnt adjustable cause it’s for a newer A body 75 up. The 1 u need looks the same but is adjustable. The bracket on the intake is also taller and a little longer. Kim

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Thats all good amd looks nice if you want to spend 300.00 on a fancy cable set up that over time can gum up or dry out and the cable could snag or rust or even Frey . I'll stick to the factory linkage and adjust or modify it to funtion correcty and save some money . I fabercate anyway so no out of pocket expense. ive also heard of lokar cables burning up automatic transmissions ?
 
my factory rod with adjuster came with a shorter version of yours so I recently modified it by buying a section of rod from menards and MIG welded a section into the factory rod and gotten rid of the bolt-nut-washer. dont have a photo its been raining here for a few days . it's all properly adjusted but still having the issue of not kicking down to pass while driving Hwy speeds - 65 -70-75 ect. I stomp on the pedal and can here the 4 barrel kick in but no shift ?I'm wondering if it's the racing shift kit ? the 727 was built by a professional and since it's a racing 727 auto I have to run Type F or b&m quick shift fluid . only . thanks for the pics
 
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IDK if a racing transmission will even have a kickdown function as they are usually full manual VB's. The governor weights would control upshifts, not down. Just get a 904 valve body or a later 727 w/part throttle kickdown servo and try it out. Only one 904 VB bolt will not fit, and the parking pawl may not work...kinda important on an A/T!
 
Thats all good amd looks nice if you want to spend 300.00 on a fancy cable set up that over time can gum up or dry out and the cable could snag or rust or even Frey . I'll stick to the factory linkage and adjust or modify it to funtion correcty and save some money . I fabercate anyway so no out of pocket expense. ive also heard of lokar cables burning up automatic transmissions ?
It wasn't meant to convince you to buy a Lokar cable. I thought the explanation of how the stock stuff is supposed to work, and the photos, would be useful to somebody. (Guess not).
 
my factory rod with adjuster came with a shorter version of yours so I recently modified it by buying a section of rod from menards and MIG welded a section into the factory rod and gotten rid of the bolt-nut-washer. dont have a photo its been raining here for a few days . it's all properly adjusted but still having the issue of not kicking down to pass while driving Hwy speeds - 65 -70-75 ect. I stomp on the pedal and can here the 4 barrel kick in but no shift ?I'm wondering if it's the racing shift kit ? the 727 was built by a professional and since it's a racing 727 auto I have to run Type F or b&m quick shift fluid . only . thanks for the pics

I’ll say this one more time.:D
Sounds about right for a stock trans not to kick down at those speeds.
The problem with changing it may result in unwanted side affects.
Not saying it can’t be done, just saying in the end you may opt to downshift it manually and live with it.
Or, if you have the funds, time and patience you could start changing things.
Personally I opted for the part throttle kickdown valve assembly be done with it.:D
 
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