Rebuilt 904 w/ tf2 shifting woes...

-
CudaFactHackJob said:
Is the vb in post 71 the one you installed? Did you keep both original vb halves together? But you said the converter was spooling, not the trans...Did the motor rev onn the 2-3 shift? Would you actually describe how you adjusted the manual valve rather than "per the instructions"? Because obviously, somewhere, somehow; instructions were not followed.
Click to expand...

Yes the vb halves are from the same vb.

Manual valve. Grind down the vb where the manual valve inserts into the vb. Then you bend the arm tip with pliers on the throttle lever to have the manual valve sit flush with the 3rd wall.

When it spools- it feels like the converter is spooling but it doesn't shift, and yes the motor revs as well. Its not nearly as bad after doing more adjusting of the kd and stabilizing the kd/throttle cable bracket.

Screenshot_20201013-140525_Gallery.jpg
 
Why not call the people who make the shift kit? The TransGo people are great...

Paging Wyrmryder....
 
Last edited:
Gil Younger was the man at Trans Go. Not sure if he is still there or not. I can tell u that every kit I did was alittle different shifting. That’s because the vb are all worn more or less. Kim
 
How is the kick down band adjusted? Sounds like you have delay from the band releasing and the directs engaging. As in, the band releases(2nd disengaging), then the directs(3rd) doesn't engage right away.
 
oldkimmer said:
Gil Younger was the man at Trans Go. Not sure if he is still there or not. I can tell u that every kit I did was alittle different shifting. That’s because the vb are all worn more or less. Kim
Click to expand...
Mr Shift Gil Younger passed several years ago.

When I visited with Jim in LA (wyrmryder) he told me he knew Gil and even provided a test vehicle or two when they were developing certain kits.

That's how my old brain remembers it anyway... He may have told me he and Gil were high dollar hookers and were on Howard Hughe's payroll....
 
408 swinger said:
How is the kick down band adjusted? Sounds like you have delay from the band releasing and the directs engaging. As in, the band releases(2nd disengaging), then the directs(3rd) doesn't engage right away.
Click to expand...

I set the kd line to have the lever pulled all the way back when the throttle is wide open. Then I've been adjusting with the little screws, 1/2 turn at a time giving it more slack.

Yes it does seem like there is a slight delay, thats a good description for it as well.

20201013_173927.jpg
 
DentalDart said:
I set the kd line to have the lever pulled all the way back when the throttle is wide open. Then I've been adjusting with the little screws, 1/2 turn at a time giving it more slack.

Yes it does seem like there is a slight delay, thats a good description for it as well.

View attachment 1715612332
Click to expand...
I'm speaking of the band adjustment. The one on the side of the case above the shift linkage. The band you have the 5.0 lever on.
 
408 swinger said:
I'm speaking of the band adjustment. The one on the side of the case above the shift linkage. The band you have the 5.0 lever on.
Click to expand...

Oh, I'm pretty sure its 2 turns off, thats what the transgo instructions said, and I remember Tony saying thats what we did.

It was my first time ever doing a transmission, so Tony offered to help and I feel like he knew how to do everything off the back of his hand. He's a smart guy, me...not so much.

20200511_165848.jpg
 
DentalDart said:
I set the kd line to have the lever pulled all the way back when the throttle is wide open. Then I've been adjusting with the little screws, 1/2 turn at a time giving it more slack.

Yes it does seem like there is a slight delay, thats a good description for it as well.

View attachment 1715612332
Click to expand...
Doc I had the same issues when using that Lokar Bracket, it would always creep forward due to it holding only by the one stud and cause soft 1-2 shifts I ended up getting a billet one from Lokar which uses the 2 mounting studs but studs are replaced by cap screws. I still use the bracket even though I switched to manual VB now. That’s coffee spiller mode !

5BCDBD96-4EA8-4118-904A-F1DE357590B8.jpeg
 
You failed to answer my first question' which was the most important; which is why I asked it first. Maybe you don't think it's important...Thoroughness is important. Somebody missed something because they weren't thorough. This is why we're approaching one hundred posts; because somebody made a mistake because they weren't thorough. Always remember, "It takes steel balls to fix automatic transmissions".
 
67 gt said:
Doc I had the same issues when using that Lokar Bracket, it would always creep forward due to it holding only by the one stud and cause soft 1-2 shifts I ended up getting a billet one from Lokar which uses the 2 mounting studs but studs are replaced by cap screws. I still use the bracket even though I switched to manual VB now. That’s coffee spiller mode !

View attachment 1715612354
Click to expand...

Yes I've been thinking about a different bracket, to try and hold it more firm, it may make adjusting it easier too.

Edit... I put the lokar bracket in my Amazon cart...
 
Last edited:
CudaFactHackJob said:
You failed to answer my first question' which was the most important; which is why I asked it first. Maybe you don't think it's important...Thoroughness is important. Somebody missed something because they weren't thorough. This is why we're approaching one hundred posts; because somebody made a mistake because they weren't thorough. Always remember, "It takes steel balls to fix automatic transmissions".
Click to expand...

My apologies, you sir are correct I failed to answer if that was the vb that I installed and the answer is yes that is the VB that was installed. That is the vb that was in my spare 727 transmission. Here is the last set of pictures I took before tossing it in the transmission. I try to take lots of pictures to help me explain my questions better and to use as reference for when I'm putting parts back together.

I wouldn't say I wasn't thorough when I did everything, I would say that I was/am not very advanced in my old mopar car knowledge, I do not have superb mopar car building skills, and I am very far from experienced with doing any of this though...

I dont quite understand the steel balls reference either...

20200512_131121.jpg


20200512_131109.jpg


20200512_105357.jpg


20200512_105339.jpg
 
DentalDart said:
Ooh I did not know this. So now I will need to stop driving the car like a grandma... Thats not sarcasm either, I rarely drive this car spirited.
Click to expand...
well there's the problem :lol:

i didn't care for the Lokar kick down. never did get it to feel right. i was getting ready to just eat it and buy a new stock setup from A&A but decided i wanted a MVB anyway, so why bother.
 
kursplat said:
well there's the problem :lol:

i didn't care for the Lokar kick down. never did get it to feel right. i was getting ready to just eat it and buy a new stock setup from A&A but decided i wanted a MVB anyway, so why bother.
Click to expand...

Oh hush:p

2-3 is still not a clean crisp shift. Ill play with it more tonight.
 
DentalDart said:
Oh hush:p

2-3 is still not a clean crisp shift. Ill play with it more tonight.
Click to expand...

You'll need to adjust the band for that. The throttle valve only does so much.. If your 2-3 shift is flaring, my understanding is the band should be tightened. If I remember right, this band is tightened externally (no need to drop the pan).
 
Just talked to transgo. He said it sounds more like I am not getting enough throttle pressure, and not getting enough throttle pressure is going to cause soft or long shifts....
 
That's why I suggested using a gauge to check pressure :D
The throttle valve controls the available pressure, but if the available pressure is too low to start with you'll never get it high enough...
 
He was also saying I need to adjust where the lokar cable and the throttle cable are attached to the carb? Says that the geometry of where the cables are connected to the carb is incorrect.

I asked if I should adjust the PR adjusting allen screw and he said no. That it sounds like I just need to get more throttle pressure by doing having the correct geometry of where the kickdown attaches.
 
DentalDart said:
He was also saying I need to adjust where the lokar cable and the throttle cable are attached to the carb? Says that the geometry of where the cables are connected to the carb is incorrect.
Click to expand...

Did they tell you how? The length of the lever on the carb will control how much cable movement is available between idle and WOT. But unless they make an adjustable linkage or arm with multiple holes, I don't see how you're supposed to adjust it..
 
Phreakish said:
Did they tell you how? The length of the lever on the carb will control how much cable movement is available between idle and WOT. But unless they make an adjustable linkage or arm with multiple holes, I don't see how you're supposed to adjust it..
Click to expand...

He said "It sounds like your linkage is not at the correct 4'oclock position relative to the axis of rotation." Looking at my pictures and connection I think it is though. He also did not understand that with the lokar cable it pulls on the shifter lever instead of pushes on it. At first he told me there is no way it could pull the shifter lever...
 
Phreakish said:
That's why I suggested using a gauge to check pressure :D
The throttle valve controls the available pressure, but if the available pressure is too low to start with you'll never get it high enough...
Click to expand...

He said their PR spring is stiffer than stock, which is why unless racing their spring flush with the bracket is how it should be adjusted.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top