Post Picture From a Factory Service Manual
Hey Rusty, the little woman and I took the Dart down the Pacific Coast Highways (1 and 101), from Tacoma to LA over the last couple weeks. I didn't want to advertise we were away. Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean I'm not paranoid enough, you know?
I had cutch, or better stated - transmission disengagement issues after the first 500 miles on the road. (New clutch and TO Brg) Finally stopped in Santa Rosa, CA where a shop welded a 1/2" tube to the adjustment rod the threaded rod goes into to increase the ability to adjust the pedal height. Thought it was good until about half way to Santa Cruz, CA. Wouldn't shift into 1st or reverse at a full stop (again) so we left it with a shop in Santa Cruz and took a rental to LA for a wedding. The mechanic says I probably nicked the pilot bushing or bent a pressure plate ear with the transmission input shaft on install, causing the input shaft to not completely disengage when pressing the clutch.
View attachment 1715614322
Pick up the car coming back north and it shifts great leaving the shop. Mechanic says he fussed with the linkage, and didn't need to pull the transmission. A few hundred miles north of the shop, the throw out bearing starts to make a "ticky" sound with my foot off the clutch. The sound goes away with light pressure on the clutch pedal and it's hard to get into 1st and reverse after 5 -6 hours of driving the switchbacks along the coast. This morning the throw out bearing howls when the clutch is fully depressed (cold) and is shifting stiff into 1st and reverse, getting progressively worse as the miles are piled on. I'm ready to throw this clutch assembly in the trash and start over!
If I haven't put you to sleep yet, I do have a couple questions;
Why does the clutch linkage rod holes have a "D" shape for a round pin? Each end of the rod going through the firewall and the end of the throw out adjustment rod that attaches to the Z Bar is D shaped. Lots of slop inside each D opening for the round pin to rattle around in.
And my throw out adjustment rod is touching the exhaust pipe. How much of a gap do you have between the two?
This car started out as an automatic and someone converted it to a 4 spd. Do you know if there are different Z Bars?
I initially thought finding a 4 spd was going to be so much easier than working on a push button auto. I'm choking on that thought just a little...
Hey Rusty, the little woman and I took the Dart down the Pacific Coast Highways (1 and 101), from Tacoma to LA over the last couple weeks. I didn't want to advertise we were away. Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean I'm not paranoid enough, you know?
I had cutch, or better stated - transmission disengagement issues after the first 500 miles on the road. (New clutch and TO Brg) Finally stopped in Santa Rosa, CA where a shop welded a 1/2" tube to the adjustment rod the threaded rod goes into to increase the ability to adjust the pedal height. Thought it was good until about half way to Santa Cruz, CA. Wouldn't shift into 1st or reverse at a full stop (again) so we left it with a shop in Santa Cruz and took a rental to LA for a wedding. The mechanic says I probably nicked the pilot bushing or bent a pressure plate ear with the transmission input shaft on install, causing the input shaft to not completely disengage when pressing the clutch.
View attachment 1715614322
Pick up the car coming back north and it shifts great leaving the shop. Mechanic says he fussed with the linkage, and didn't need to pull the transmission. A few hundred miles north of the shop, the throw out bearing starts to make a "ticky" sound with my foot off the clutch. The sound goes away with light pressure on the clutch pedal and it's hard to get into 1st and reverse after 5 -6 hours of driving the switchbacks along the coast. This morning the throw out bearing howls when the clutch is fully depressed (cold) and is shifting stiff into 1st and reverse, getting progressively worse as the miles are piled on. I'm ready to throw this clutch assembly in the trash and start over!
If I haven't put you to sleep yet, I do have a couple questions;
Why does the clutch linkage rod holes have a "D" shape for a round pin? Each end of the rod going through the firewall and the end of the throw out adjustment rod that attaches to the Z Bar is D shaped. Lots of slop inside each D opening for the round pin to rattle around in.
And my throw out adjustment rod is touching the exhaust pipe. How much of a gap do you have between the two?
This car started out as an automatic and someone converted it to a 4 spd. Do you know if there are different Z Bars?
I initially thought finding a 4 spd was going to be so much easier than working on a push button auto. I'm choking on that thought just a little...