Need 1964 Dodge Dart Convertible Top Pictures!

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I am in the process of putting on a new top on my 1964 Dodge Dart. I have seen some threads on how not to attach the top but I am still at a loss on attaching it to the back side of the car. I would love to see some pix on how the side curtain attaches (Inside and out) and how the tension cable attaches. (my old top did not have any tension cables installed and was not attached to the side or the rear of the car when i got it). I have attached some picturs of the side panel so far...

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I don't know if anything on my 64 Dart vert is right, but I'll take any angle, close up or wide shot you want. Good luck!!
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These are great! Helps me out a bunch... Can you get pix of the tension cable attachments (they run through the top on both sides) I know where it attaches at the header but not at the back. all me references say its above the rear window
 
These are great! Helps me out a bunch... Can you get pix of the tension cable attachments (they run through the top on both sides) I know where it attaches at the header but not at the back. all me references say its above the rear window

I'm not proving to be much help here. My cables are missing, and I see no attach point above the rear window. Here is a couple pics of under the canvas with the top partially open.
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I think the round pin at the center of the pic is an adjustment point, and the hole at the upper right of the pic looks like a lube hole to me.

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I did talk to Dave at Layson's in Tacoma about this front attach point a couple months ago, and he had mentioned he had a convertible or two at their shop. If Layson's helps you figure it out, let us know, my turn at doing a top is coming!
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I also checked the FSM, and found no mention of this cable at all. Weird... Let me know if I can help further. I'm more than happy to!
 
...I also checked the FSM, and found no mention of this cable at all. Weird... Let me know if I can help further. I'm more than happy to!
I have not dealt with mine as my car is in pieces and have the top frame stored in the rafters of my garage. But I did check the FSM I have and I see there are cable adjustments listed starting on page 23-30 in section 47 that contains a pic. Posted pics of that section here in case they are of help.
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Nice information! also very helpful. It seems these cables were added in 1964. maybe some did not have them? Found a bullitan about it and took a picture of them but still need the rear attach spot?

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Nice information! also very helpful. It seems these cables were added in 1964. maybe some did not have them? Found a bullitan about it and took a picture of them but still need the rear attach spot?

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I was thinking the back cable, but re-reading the thread I see you meant the ones in the side. I also have the 65 Plymouth fsm (as I have a 273 in my 64 which is also not covered in the 64 fsm). I looked in that and it has this picture. Is this what you are looking for?
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Nice information! also very helpful. It seems these cables were added in 1964. maybe some did not have them? Found a bullitan about it and took a picture of them but still need the rear attach spot?

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I think you are homing in! So there is a cable spring screw behind the horizontal section of the rear window that has room for a spring in front of it. I'll compare your pic to my top tomorrow. From what angle do you think view of 'BB' is from?
 
I just remembered that although my 270 top is stored up in the rafters, my GT (both 64s) still has the top frame and what little is left of the top - lol - in place. Is this the cable you are talking about? Front is just a loop on a screw and looks like the back is just tensioned by the spring in the back. I took a pic of the front connecting point, the spring in the back, and one where I am holding the cable (which is broke) near the spring in the back. As you can see there is not much of the top left to see how the cable was threaded through it. You're right that it doesn't look like the 64 manual covers this and the 65 Plymouth manual looks a little different.

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I'm not certain, but I think when I was talking to Dave at Layson's about this he said the wire went under the top's fabric along the side.

And you have my attention and respect, tackling a project like this. I was quoted over $3K to replace my top and boot. I've been looking at it ever since, wondering it I can tackle doing it myself when the time comes.
 
Been busy with my step-daughter having surgery, non critical, and having to run my wife around & take care of the kid's animals.
My Valisnt should be similar to your Dart. The center section & window are gone from mine, but the sides & cables are still intact. I'll try to get some pics this weekend.
I think the most important part is adjusting the rear cables so the bow is at the correct measurement.
 
Here is the final...about 8 hours into the project...not including polishing trim. Came out great for the first time!...will pull it a little tighter on the right side. Thanks for all your pictures...it really helped me make this project easier!

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Thanks. Very useful. I have done almost everything on my 1964 Valiant conv except installing a top. I plan to buy a canvas one (expensive so holding off). It came w/ the top stripped and just the side pads. I took the frame apart, removed all rust (soaked in phosphoric acid) & painted white, so if anyone needs photos of top frame parts ask. Mine doesn't have the side tension cables, and I saw them in catalogs, so wondered. I do see a tiny hole on the front steel bow and aft aluminum frame (both sides) as in post 11, though doesn't appear they ever had screws in those holes. Those are small screws, so likely little tension on the cable and perhaps their purpose is just to help keep the top from flapping. Mine does have the adjustable tension cables on the rear bow. Mine had disconnected lift cylinders and was missing the shoulder bolt (?) which connects to the frame (lower right photo of post #4). The FSM shows a forked end on the cylinder, but my old cylinders weren't, nor the replacements I bought. Anyway, I bought bolts and nuts at Ace which "should work". My car also had 2 large springs for a manual top in the trunk, but I see no place they would attach, so perhaps manual frames differ. PM if anyone needs them.

The FSM shows the two allen screw adjustments on each side. In post 6, top photo, one allen screw is in the hole in the U-channel of the frame at bottom of photo. The larger steel round part in the upper aluminum frame is the "target" which the allen screw acts against. For one screw (each side), you must remove the chrome weatherstrip channel to get at the screw head. But, they likely corroded in the aluminum frame. I had to drill out all 4 allen screws, using a cobalt drill (carefully center), then cleaned up the threaded holes w/ a tap and coated the new screws w/ anti-seize. One hole got buggered up, so I had to tap it larger for a larger set-screw. Similarly, about half the sheet-metal screws which secure the chrome channels snapped since corroded into the aluminum, so had to vice-grip or drill out.

In top photo of post #6, the small hole thought to be "a lube point" has a roll-pin which secures a groove in a cylinder which slides into the aluminum frame as a pivot. That doesn't move in the aluminum (no lube needed), rather the steel frame piece rotates on the pressed-in pivot cylinder. There are steel wave springs on each side, which were rusted and split in mine. You need high-quality roll-pin drivers to get them out and ample lube, even heat at some. I buggered some up by first using a cut nail to drive them, so had to drill them out (requires cobalt drill bit). I used nylon washers on each side in place of the wave washers. There are about 4 of those pivots on each side.

Best not to try separating the 2 aluminum frame pieces by pressing out the steel pivot pin. I broke one aluminum hinge by trying that, probably because I mushroomed the steel pin so it wouldn't fit thru the hole. Took me over a day to fix that w/ a steel strap to secure the broken part (can't weld cast aluminum). Coat all steel parts w/ anti-seize before installing back in the aluminum holes or next-guy will be cussing in 40 years (could be you).
 
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