Quick fuel carb fuel pressure too high? Rich idle...
Noticed my voltage was dropping And giving me Ignition problems last night as my Alternator doesn’t charge very well at 800 to 1000 rpm Probably should replace the alternator as I need 12 volts plus to run the distributor and coil properly before I continue. I think that upping the idle air bleeds would help. Yes stock look to be 70’s. Maybe I should go up 4 or 6 sizes to start?
Since this is your thread lets get back to the issues and I'll try to help.
If you want to throw in a 10.5 PV, its not going to hurt. But I agree with YR and the others that's not the real issue.
Possibility in order they should be looked at. None are neccessarily 'it' or more likely or less likely. Just that the sequence of getting the carb set up is important. One does effect the next
1. Fuel Pressure. Lower is better. If you're using a regulator, set it at 4.5 psi and it will be able to flow more when more is needed and have less turbulence. That said, 6.5 psi should be controllable and if you didn't seethe fuel level creeping up in the sight plugs, it obviously was.
2. Fuel Level. On the new school fuel bowls with big windows, fuel level should be in the middle of the windows. Set the secondaries sa little lower. On the older bowlswith smaller removable plugs, the typical starting point is fuel level just even with the bottom. Again lower on the secondaries. Setting the fuel level higher does make the mixtures richer. Not a lot but is an adjustment that can be used.
3. Transfer slot settings. With the QF, start with the primaries square and the secondaries square or less than square. I'd be fine with no secondary slot showing but you may have to measure and experiment.
4. Four corner. The elephant in the room. The idle-transfer systems work by the pressure difference between the bowl and the intake manifold. A four corner carb doubles the idle systems but does not double the air flow. It can be really useful with engines that have poor vacuum at idle.
With a 4 corner on an engine with somewhat decent vacuum at idle, the fuel will probably need to be restricted much more.
That should get you started.
As far as the electric power goes.
Even with the alternator dead there should be around 12 volts from the battery.
Put that battery on a charger!!!
Even a stock alternator could provide some power at idle - enough to run the ignition and field at close to 14 Volts and some left over to charge the battery if needed. So yea check into that AFTER getting the battery recharged.