Should I replace the stock 360 intake?

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Most dual planes work best from low-rpm to mid.
Single-planes usually cover the top, by giving up some torque at low rpm.
The AG is touted as a full range intake, and has proven it's worth

But it is the cam, for the most part, that determines the operating rpm of the engine. So if you have a stock cam, The AG won't do a lot for you, that the factory intake can't.
The only way I would put an AG on a stock engine is if it was the only 4bbl intake I already owned.

Gearing makes it worse.
If you have 3.23s and 28" tall tires, and a stock 4bbl cam, top of first gear might be 5500@52 mph. On the 1-2 shift, the Rs will drop to 3250, and this gear will hit 65=3650, and won't get into the meat of the AG until say 4500@73 mph.... but the cam is done at about 5000@81mph.
Can you see how the AG is out of it's best zone most of the time.... whereas the stock one is in it's best zone all the time.
In first gear;
if the tires spin, it don't matter what intake is on it, cuz yur only gonna be in first for about 3 or maybe 4 seconds.
But if the tires don't spin, the AG is too much intake anyway.
I suggest;
to put your money into a good hi-stall TC, instead; you will be way further up the performance curve. And after that, get you some more serious gears..... Once your tires spin up no problem, and they stay spinning, you'll forget all about the AG.

But if your engine is not a stock 4bbl engine, well then, all this goes right out the window.

Thanks, I think you analysis is spot on!

The truck will probably see a timed track very few times, more like puttering around at lower speeds enjoying the views.

My gearing is 3.55:1 and stall speed is 2500 rpm, with an open diff it just spins one wheel if I push the throttle, so most of the available power is wasted anyway.

All equipment is Mopar original.
 
I saw an ad on FB recently where a guy had stacks of stock GM iron intakes starting at $200 each!
 
Those cast iron intakes are very hard to beat for what they were designed for and what they were designed AFTER. They are basically the same as the 1971 340 intake, but with the EGR added. They flow extremely well. People have used them in stock eliminator for decades and WON with them. A LOT. If all you are wanting is a cool truck to cruise around in, that intake will be just fine. If it was my truck, I would even build the engine back bone stock. They were pretty stout like they were. SO stout in fact, that in 1978 the Lil Red Trucks were the fastest production vehicles in the domestic market, even beating the 78 Corvette. It's true. Look it up. lol Course the Vette in 78 wasn't very strong, but still to get beat out by a truck was pretty embarrassing.
 
Most dual planes work best from low-rpm to mid.
Single-planes usually cover the top, by giving up some torque at low rpm.
The AG is touted as a full range intake, and has proven it's worth

But it is the cam, for the most part, that determines the operating rpm of the engine. So if you have a stock cam, The AG won't do a lot for you, that the factory intake can't.
The only way I would put an AG on a stock engine is if it was the only 4bbl intake I already owned.

Gearing makes it worse.
If you have 3.23s and 28" tall tires, and a stock 4bbl cam, top of first gear might be 5500@52 mph. On the 1-2 shift, the Rs will drop to 3250, and this gear will hit 65=3650, and won't get into the meat of the AG until say 4500@73 mph.... but the cam is done at about 5000@81mph.
Can you see how the AG is out of it's best zone most of the time.... whereas the stock one is in it's best zone all the time.
In first gear;
if the tires spin, it don't matter what intake is on it, cuz yur only gonna be in first for about 3 or maybe 4 seconds.
But if the tires don't spin, the AG is too much intake anyway.
I suggest;
to put your money into a good hi-stall TC, instead; you will be way further up the performance curve. And after that, get you some more serious gears..... Once your tires spin up no problem, and they stay spinning, you'll forget all about the AG.

But if your engine is not a stock 4bbl engine, well then, all this goes right out the window.
I love an analogy like this , thank you. Helps clear the fog. Improves my vision of the overall.
 
My Lil Red 360 (EH1) is finally in the workshop for a complete rebuild, the shop owner recommends to change the stock intake for a Edelbrock Airgap intake and keep the rebuilt Thermoquad in place.

Googling around I see quite a lot of postive comments on the stock intake.

What do you guys say?

My stock intake on the picture below.
View attachment 1715617834
If you don't expect to exceed the power capability of the intake, why spend the money?
I love the thermoquad. The theory behind it brought me to it and I fooled around with it for a while. That was until they were removed my possession without my consent or knowledge. I think I had three or four of them. I do have some unopened carb kits for them ifneed them. Or the other hand I'll buy your intake if you don't use it.
 
Spend the money on a Sure Grip for the rear end. If you're going to run the Thermoquad, keep the factory intake. It's almost like they were designed to be together.
 
The stock setup works well.With a little more compression and some head porting it could be a very fun ride.
 
Those cast iron intakes are very hard to beat for what they were designed for and what they were designed AFTER. They are basically the same as the 1971 340 intake, but with the EGR added. They flow extremely well. People have used them in stock eliminator for decades and WON with them. A LOT. If all you are wanting is a cool truck to cruise around in, that intake will be just fine. If it was my truck, I would even build the engine back bone stock. They were pretty stout like they were. SO stout in fact, that in 1978 the Lil Red Trucks were the fastest production vehicles in the domestic market, even beating the 78 Corvette. It's true. Look it up. lol Course the Vette in 78 wasn't very strong, but still to get beat out by a truck was pretty embarrassing.

Thank you, thank you, thank you all for the positive comments!

I had dreamed about this truck since I first read about in 1978, but 21 years old living in the highest income taxed country in the world, it was WAY out of reach.

A whole life later it was my turn in every aspect, found a one owner, never restored vehicle, 40k miles specimen in New Jersey in 2017, words are still not enough to express my feelings.

I'm doing my best to preserve Lil Red for the coming generations.

Lil Red på Hornsgatan.jpg
 
Thank you, thank you, thank you all for the positive comments!

I had dreamed about this truck since I first read about in 1978, but 21 years old living in the highest income taxed country in the world, it was WAY out of reach.

A whole life later it was my turn in every aspect, found a one owner, never restored vehicle, 40k miles specimen in New Jersey in 2017, words are still not enough to express my feelings.

I'm doing my best to preserve Lil Red for the coming generations.

View attachment 1715618756
if you can't find a decent thermoquad why not look at a speed demon 750 , i'm using one on my "360" and it works well , i will soon have dyno results as the engine is out of the car , going to do a few back to back sessions to see which carb does best , holley 750 , holley 850 or the speed demon , made by holley
 
Thank you, thank you, thank you all for the positive comments!

I had dreamed about this truck since I first read about in 1978, but 21 years old living in the highest income taxed country in the world, it was WAY out of reach.

A whole life later it was my turn in every aspect, found a one owner, never restored vehicle, 40k miles specimen in New Jersey in 2017, words are still not enough to express my feelings.

I'm doing my best to preserve Lil Red for the coming generations.

View attachment 1715618756

...and no matter how hard you try, some people just REFUSE to believe those trucks were stock made like that. I have run into more people that don't believe it than you might imagine.
 
Now my newly rebuilt stock 360 on the dyno, 278 hp logged with the original intake in place as many of you suggested. 40 years until next rebuild. :thumbsup:
20201118_085947.jpg
 
I'm a little late to the party, but if anything I would have opted for the 71 non egr intake. Unless you have to hook up smog crap, that is.

71-intake-pic.png
 
IIRC, a 70 is squarebore.
A ‘71 is for a TQ.
MoPar said the square bore intake is good for 10 or 15 hp, but, IMO, it was due to the carb up top having more flow. I do not know if they tested it in anyway. IE swap carbs on to the intake and test. AFB/AVS s a TQ.

I personally am not so fond of that year because of the choke well cup. They rot out. Repairable? Yes, to a degree. Recently, there made of unobtanium.

Im not sure about a ‘72, but a ‘73 has a different style choke well. Much better. Chokes available.
 
IIRC, a 70 is squarebore.
A ‘71 is for a TQ.
MoPar said the square bore intake is good for 10 or 15 hp, but, IMO, it was due to the carb up top having more flow. I do not know if they tested it in anyway. IE swap carbs on to the intake and test. AFB/AVS s a TQ.

I personally am not so fond of that year because of the choke well cup. They rot out. Repairable? Yes, to a degree. Recently, there made of unobtanium.

Im not sure about a ‘72, but a ‘73 has a different style choke well. Much better. Chokes available.
interesting my 2 70 intakes have not rotted out at the choke well , guess i'm lucky engines were taken out in the 70's and put in storage probably why they have not rotted out , if only they were not so heavy
 
The weight loss comes in handy when a time slip is important, that’s it really. While anyone can argue that a lighter car gets better mileage, I’d love to see that data when it comes to a 50lbs. weight savings.

If the car/engine is being built to just have fun & you wanna save some money, the cast OE intake is a good choice. If you need to have aluminum just for the sake of aluminum, then go get ya some.
 
Below 2 pictures is how I was basically told how to fix it.
High temp paint on the inside, high heat orange on the outside. The self tapping screw holds together 2 separate cut and pounded into shape metal @.060 thick. I. Weld has s in between.

The bottom intake has a cast rate of late-ish ‘72 and the choke well I like. Nothing to rot out.

89E24DF9-AB3C-471A-A45D-01E996004FFC.jpeg
DDCAB13B-F5EA-4C46-B212-1B45C189CB5B.jpeg
69862B3F-A0B3-41D7-9309-EA9B09349948.jpeg
 
I would get a set of Econo W2s and use my NOS non EGR cast iron W2 intake .
No one would know the wiser ...

SUPER SLEEPER !
 
Originally, when the Little Red Expresses were being advertised, they were slated to come out with the W2 heads. I remember reading some info on that sometime ago. I don't remember if it was cost, emissions, or why it never made it to the table. Anyone on here have the real story?
 
Originally, when the Little Red Expresses were being advertised, they were slated to come out with the W2 heads. I remember reading some info on that sometime ago. I don't remember if it was cost, emissions, or why it never made it to the table. Anyone on here have the real story?

I know... thats why it would be cool !
 
Originally, when the Little Red Expresses were being advertised, they were slated to come out with the W2 heads. I remember reading some info on that sometime ago. I don't remember if it was cost, emissions, or why it never made it to the table. Anyone on here have the real story?

emissions....since they had to certify the emission for 50k miles...
 
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