Cam degreeing help me understand!

Yes. I don’t use a positive stop. Never have. By the time you get it bolted on, I’ve found TDC and have moved on to the rest of it.

I’m not a fan of the cardboard degree wheel. You can buy a decent 8 inch steel degree wheel for 20-30 bucks.

All I use is an 8 inch wheel. The bigger ones are nice, but I’m not paying that kind of money for one.

BTW, in the above picture of your lifters, if that’s overlap it *LOOKS* like the exhaust valve is higher than the intake. If it is, the cam is retarded.

Pictures can be deceiving.

I forgot to mention that most of those small degree wheels have a hole in them for GM stuff. There are a couple of ways to make it easier to use on Chrysler stuff.

One is to take an old damper bolt, face it off flat and drill and tap it for 3/8-16. Then machine the face for a step that is the diameter of the hole in the degree wheel.

Then the wheel is centered on the damper bolt and you can turn the crank with that bolt, and you only loosen the 3/8 bolt to adjust for TDC.

The other way is to do the same to a damper bolt but make up a spacer to fill the hole in the degree wheel.
Yes that is the overlap if I done it correctly it still is retarded even with the other timing chain. So when I start with the compression tdc #1 the dots will be at 12 and 6 so when I rotate it 180 degrees the cam dot is now at 3 o'clock position is that correct? Thats how I did it and its still retarded.