Valve Cover sealing problem with a stripped out bolt hole
So last week I decided to take the RPM Air-Gap I had for my wife's Duster 360 that's been in the attic for 10 years and bolt it on. Simple right? Not if you know me.
I pulled everything off, cleaned up & painted bits & pieces to freshen up the engine bay to not look like such a jalopy and on the rear passenger side lower valve cover bolt was a stud. I Had a set of ARP valve cover bolts that I pulled off a old dodge truck at the Pull-A-Part and figured why not use the nice shiny stainless ones....ugh...I doubled up some nuts on the stud and as soon as I started backing it out I realized I had F'd up and shouldn't have messed with it.
It had been epoxied in because the hole is F'd off. everything else is resolved & fixed except for that dang hole and I have a steady weep there.
I've tried JB Weld Quick-Steel (immediately failed) and classic JB Weld, waiting 12 hours to try and torque it, and it pulled immediately.
I kinda like the look of the 71 340 valve covers but if the MP Cast ones were still available, I'd buy them in a heartbeat.
I'm using these "Ultimate" Silicone gaskets. ( Valve Cover Gaskets - MOPAR Small Block V8 "ULTIMATE" Silicone - Silicone Gaskets - Real Gaskets Tennessee ) I've R&R'd the valve cover multiple times and they seem nice.
I can get the stud (using a cut down stainless steel air cleaner stud ) about 5 threads deep in the hole. There is tool steel busted off in the bottom of it that is NOT coming out even with my titanium carbide burr.
What idea's do ya'll have? Tack weld the stud in? That's haggard as all get out, but that's about the point I'm at. I'm willing to do anything short of pulling the head and having a machine shop un-f' it as I don't want to get into it that far.
The heads are 1971 340 heads, I don't know if they're the big valve heads or not but are not casted with a J or X on the pad. Next time the engine is out of this car and it gets promoted from Driver quality to something better, it'll probably get aluminum heads.
So last week I decided to take the RPM Air-Gap I had for my wife's Duster 360 that's been in the attic for 10 years and bolt it on. Simple right? Not if you know me.
I pulled everything off, cleaned up & painted bits & pieces to freshen up the engine bay to not look like such a jalopy and on the rear passenger side lower valve cover bolt was a stud. I Had a set of ARP valve cover bolts that I pulled off a old dodge truck at the Pull-A-Part and figured why not use the nice shiny stainless ones....ugh...I doubled up some nuts on the stud and as soon as I started backing it out I realized I had F'd up and shouldn't have messed with it.
It had been epoxied in because the hole is F'd off. everything else is resolved & fixed except for that dang hole and I have a steady weep there.
I've tried JB Weld Quick-Steel (immediately failed) and classic JB Weld, waiting 12 hours to try and torque it, and it pulled immediately.
I kinda like the look of the 71 340 valve covers but if the MP Cast ones were still available, I'd buy them in a heartbeat.
I'm using these "Ultimate" Silicone gaskets. ( Valve Cover Gaskets - MOPAR Small Block V8 "ULTIMATE" Silicone - Silicone Gaskets - Real Gaskets Tennessee ) I've R&R'd the valve cover multiple times and they seem nice.
I can get the stud (using a cut down stainless steel air cleaner stud ) about 5 threads deep in the hole. There is tool steel busted off in the bottom of it that is NOT coming out even with my titanium carbide burr.
What idea's do ya'll have? Tack weld the stud in? That's haggard as all get out, but that's about the point I'm at. I'm willing to do anything short of pulling the head and having a machine shop un-f' it as I don't want to get into it that far.
The heads are 1971 340 heads, I don't know if they're the big valve heads or not but are not casted with a J or X on the pad. Next time the engine is out of this car and it gets promoted from Driver quality to something better, it'll probably get aluminum heads.