833 Transmission won't disengage at stop after 100 miles.
I've rambled about this issue lightly elsewhere, and finally had the chance to take it all apart today for a look.
'64 Dart /6. converted from an auto to 4 spd by someone else. I rebuilt the transmission, new clutch, throw out bearing, and surfaced the flywheel. The Z bar doesn't look right compared to one I saw on a '64 Dart at Layson's today.
My Z bar hits the exhaust and angles toward the throw out bearing arm at the bellhousing;
The /6 Dart's Z bar at Layson's is closer to the bellhousing and looks like a straight back movement to the throw out arm (and just looks different). Both Z bar arms look to be the same length. Something is funky here, but the transmission disengaged okay with the old, oil soaked clutch.
The clutch / tranny was functioning well at the beginning of the 2,800 mile road trip. About 500 miles into the trip (about the end of the second day), the transmission started to not completely disengage to the point where I had to turn the motor off to get it into 1st or reverse when at a full stop.
Then the throw out bearing started to scream when cold. Two shops along our trip fiddled with the clutch linkage. It shifted better cold, but after 100 or so miles into each day (1st pee stop), it wouldn't go into 1st when stopped unless I shut the motor off. We made 2,000 miles out of the 2,800 in the Dart, and the middle 800 miles in a rental car while a shop fiddled with the linkage.
Got to take it all apart today. I was told the transmission input shaft could be heating up in the pilot bushing and causing the shaft to bind - continue to spin when the clutch is depressed. I really can't recall what the nose of the input shaft looked like when I reassembled the car. The Factory Service Manual said to put the grease into the pilot bushing opening. I did not lube the nose of the pilot shaft on assembly.
Does this look like heat bluing or just crud?
I was also told the fingers on the pressure plate may not be even or warped, causing release issues when hot. There is a groove cut into one pressure plate finger, a good scuff on finger #2, and barely any mark on the third finger.
What's up with that?
And the throw out bearing threw grease everywhere so my shiny clutch, and resurfaced flywheel now looks like this.
Brewer's sent me a replacement throw out bearing before I took it apart (good people!). I'd love to learn from you all's experience what you think before I talk to Brewer's next week in case I should be looking at or measuring other parts.
And while this is getting sorted out, I'm disassembling the Hurst shifter on Canyon Carver's recommendation, for a good scrubbing and lube. The little woman asked me how hard it would be to turn it back into an automatic. I said for me, HARD!!
Thanks in advance for the help, you guys. I wouldn't be able to keep this little cutie running without you!! :)
I've rambled about this issue lightly elsewhere, and finally had the chance to take it all apart today for a look.
'64 Dart /6. converted from an auto to 4 spd by someone else. I rebuilt the transmission, new clutch, throw out bearing, and surfaced the flywheel. The Z bar doesn't look right compared to one I saw on a '64 Dart at Layson's today.
My Z bar hits the exhaust and angles toward the throw out bearing arm at the bellhousing;
The /6 Dart's Z bar at Layson's is closer to the bellhousing and looks like a straight back movement to the throw out arm (and just looks different). Both Z bar arms look to be the same length. Something is funky here, but the transmission disengaged okay with the old, oil soaked clutch.
The clutch / tranny was functioning well at the beginning of the 2,800 mile road trip. About 500 miles into the trip (about the end of the second day), the transmission started to not completely disengage to the point where I had to turn the motor off to get it into 1st or reverse when at a full stop.
Then the throw out bearing started to scream when cold. Two shops along our trip fiddled with the clutch linkage. It shifted better cold, but after 100 or so miles into each day (1st pee stop), it wouldn't go into 1st when stopped unless I shut the motor off. We made 2,000 miles out of the 2,800 in the Dart, and the middle 800 miles in a rental car while a shop fiddled with the linkage.
Got to take it all apart today. I was told the transmission input shaft could be heating up in the pilot bushing and causing the shaft to bind - continue to spin when the clutch is depressed. I really can't recall what the nose of the input shaft looked like when I reassembled the car. The Factory Service Manual said to put the grease into the pilot bushing opening. I did not lube the nose of the pilot shaft on assembly.
Does this look like heat bluing or just crud?
I was also told the fingers on the pressure plate may not be even or warped, causing release issues when hot. There is a groove cut into one pressure plate finger, a good scuff on finger #2, and barely any mark on the third finger.
What's up with that?
And the throw out bearing threw grease everywhere so my shiny clutch, and resurfaced flywheel now looks like this.
Brewer's sent me a replacement throw out bearing before I took it apart (good people!). I'd love to learn from you all's experience what you think before I talk to Brewer's next week in case I should be looking at or measuring other parts.
And while this is getting sorted out, I'm disassembling the Hurst shifter on Canyon Carver's recommendation, for a good scrubbing and lube. The little woman asked me how hard it would be to turn it back into an automatic. I said for me, HARD!!
Thanks in advance for the help, you guys. I wouldn't be able to keep this little cutie running without you!! :)
