833 Transmission won't disengage at stop after 100 miles.
The flattest side of the disc should be marked "flywheel side". In your pic,above, it sorta looks backwards.
Here are some guidelines;
Your Z-bar should run parallel to the road, and at 90* to the centerline of the car in plan-view. The outboard end should be secured with the big wire horse-shoe clip,going into the nylon bushings to keep the downrod in about the center of the firewall window, transversely.You can shift the Z-bar laterally by shimming the outboard anchor.
The inboard Z-bar pivot bracket must be secured to the BH with TWO bolts. If the pivot ends up in the wrong place, then; either it is wrong, or the engine is not in the right place,or the BH is wrong for the application.
With these two in their correct positions, the inboard lever should be swinging front to back,parallel to the centerline of the vehicle.
The correctly installed TO fork should be about centered vertically in the BH window, and should be very near the front of the window. The part of the TO fork where the adjuster-rod fits should be about parallel to the Z-bar, ie not bent backwards or forwards. It can be slightly biased forward.There should an "anti-rattle" spring pulling the TO fork back to the front of the window, to retract the TO bearing OFF the clutch fingers. The To bearing must not spin full-time, it will wear out prematurely.
From here, the installed adjuster rod should again be parallel to the centerline of the vehicle in plan-view, and about parallel to the road in side-view.
Some tips;
The "freeplay" at the pedal, should be about 1/2 inch, to achieve a minimum .080 clutch departure. The freeplay could be less, so long as adequate departure is achieved, and the TO bearing stays OFF the fingers. Also; you do not have to push the pedal to the floor! You only need to push as far as it takes to either: pull a clean shift, and/or put it into gear at a stop. see note 1
The over-center spring up under the dash, should park the clutch pedal with a nice "thunk" up on it's stopper.
If the clutch seems hard to push or modulate,with the over-center assist spring installed, your pedal ratio may be wrong.
The engine mounts need to keep the engine in place laterally and the trans mount needs to keep it all in place longitudinally.
Brewers has several combinations of parts that you can select from to help you achieve these guidelines.
Note 1
If the engine originally came with an automatic;
the crank hole may not have been finish-sized for a pilot bushing. If so, then it takes a DIFFERENT pilot bushing, from a standard transmission crank, to provide the necessary bushing to input gear clearance.
That bronze bushing is porous and needs very little grease to operate. New, they come impregnated with lube. I put some hi-temp grease into the crank, and just smear the bushing, and none on the input. If you put grease on the input, installing the trans will push it up towards the splines, and as soon as you drive away, it will fling off, and end up in all the wrong places. The idea is that whenever the grease in the cavity warms up it will be forced outwards by centrifugal force and flow into the pores of the bushing. A thin regular-temp grease will get runny, come all the way thru, and as before, be flung into all the wrong places. But if the wrong bushing was installed, the clearance will be too tight, the grease will not find it's way into the pores/clearance, and whatever grease was in there will cook out, and the bushing will tighten up on the input gear,perhaps even giving metal to it, as yours seems to have done.
Some guys have crudely resized the outside diameter of the wrong bushing and managed to force it into the crank, with predictable results.
You need a new, correct for your crank,bushing. Remove the current one and measure the bored crank-hole. Then order the correct bushing for the hole-size. Then throw the current one out; it is no good; it is too tight,is dried out, and has suffered too much metal-transfer.
Note 2
Check to see if your finger heights are all the same. If they are not; then you will have modulation issues, by way of uneven clutch-departure. Also check to see that you have the correct TO bearing diameter, so that it sits at the right place on the fingers, throughout it's travel.
Happy HotRodding
The flattest side of the disc should be marked "flywheel side". In your pic,above, it sorta looks backwards.
Here are some guidelines;
Your Z-bar should run parallel to the road, and at 90* to the centerline of the car in plan-view. The outboard end should be secured with the big wire horse-shoe clip,going into the nylon bushings to keep the downrod in about the center of the firewall window, transversely.You can shift the Z-bar laterally by shimming the outboard anchor.
The inboard Z-bar pivot bracket must be secured to the BH with TWO bolts. If the pivot ends up in the wrong place, then; either it is wrong, or the engine is not in the right place,or the BH is wrong for the application.
With these two in their correct positions, the inboard lever should be swinging front to back,parallel to the centerline of the vehicle.
The correctly installed TO fork should be about centered vertically in the BH window, and should be very near the front of the window. The part of the TO fork where the adjuster-rod fits should be about parallel to the Z-bar, ie not bent backwards or forwards. It can be slightly biased forward.There should an "anti-rattle" spring pulling the TO fork back to the front of the window, to retract the TO bearing OFF the clutch fingers. The To bearing must not spin full-time, it will wear out prematurely.
From here, the installed adjuster rod should again be parallel to the centerline of the vehicle in plan-view, and about parallel to the road in side-view.
Some tips;
The "freeplay" at the pedal, should be about 1/2 inch, to achieve a minimum .080 clutch departure. The freeplay could be less, so long as adequate departure is achieved, and the TO bearing stays OFF the fingers. Also; you do not have to push the pedal to the floor! You only need to push as far as it takes to either: pull a clean shift, and/or put it into gear at a stop. see note 1
The over-center spring up under the dash, should park the clutch pedal with a nice "thunk" up on it's stopper.
If the clutch seems hard to push or modulate,with the over-center assist spring installed, your pedal ratio may be wrong.
The engine mounts need to keep the engine in place laterally and the trans mount needs to keep it all in place longitudinally.
Brewers has several combinations of parts that you can select from to help you achieve these guidelines.
Note 1
If the engine originally came with an automatic;
the crank hole may not have been finish-sized for a pilot bushing. If so, then it takes a DIFFERENT pilot bushing, from a standard transmission crank, to provide the necessary bushing to input gear clearance.
That bronze bushing is porous and needs very little grease to operate. New, they come impregnated with lube. I put some hi-temp grease into the crank, and just smear the bushing, and none on the input. If you put grease on the input, installing the trans will push it up towards the splines, and as soon as you drive away, it will fling off, and end up in all the wrong places. The idea is that whenever the grease in the cavity warms up it will be forced outwards by centrifugal force and flow into the pores of the bushing. A thin regular-temp grease will get runny, come all the way thru, and as before, be flung into all the wrong places. But if the wrong bushing was installed, the clearance will be too tight, the grease will not find it's way into the pores/clearance, and whatever grease was in there will cook out, and the bushing will tighten up on the input gear,perhaps even giving metal to it, as yours seems to have done.
Some guys have crudely resized the outside diameter of the wrong bushing and managed to force it into the crank, with predictable results.
You need a new, correct for your crank,bushing. Remove the current one and measure the bored crank-hole. Then order the correct bushing for the hole-size. Then throw the current one out; it is no good; it is too tight,is dried out, and has suffered too much metal-transfer.
Note 2
Check to see if your finger heights are all the same. If they are not; then you will have modulation issues, by way of uneven clutch-departure. Also check to see that you have the correct TO bearing diameter, so that it sits at the right place on the fingers, throughout it's travel.
Happy HotRodding
