833 Transmission won't disengage at stop after 100 miles.


No, just to see how close it is, you can do this on any flat surface . But I don't think you will be able to use a caliper, as the fingers have a curved surface. You can hunt up a deep socket and a crosspiece with a couple of shims and that will get you close.
Alternatively, I guess you could float a flat disc over the fingers and caliper it, adjacent to the fingers. If you you do it as I imagine it,lol, that will get you real close.

Probably won't surprise anyone. The finger with the deepest groove is as much taller (0.020") than the other two as the groove is worn deep.

You need a new, correct for your crank,bushing. Remove the current one and measure the bored crank-hole. Then order the correct bushing for the hole-size. Then throw the current one out; it is no good; it is too tight,is dried out, and has suffered too much metal-transfer.

A buddy told me to remove the old bushing by "just" filling the bushing cavity with grease, and then placing a 3/4" brass drift in the filled cavity, and hitting it with a hammer. Bushing didn't budge on the first try, and I'm not very comfortable putting a side load on the main bearings by pounding on the end of the crankshaft with a BFH. Maybe I can get in there with a hacksaw blade, and cold chisel out the cut through parts.

Not sure how to measure the bushing opening in the end of the crankshaft. It doesn't look like my dial caliper tips will reach in there, and I don't think my neighbor's dial indicator has an attachment that goes that small. I may need better equipped neighbors!