833 Transmission won't disengage at stop after 100 miles.

1965barr said
Hi this is the right tool for pulling the bearing out and check to make sure the input shaft is square to the crank you can get offset dowels from Brewers hope this helps my Dad was a mechanic and bodyman and left me 7 big tool cabinets of tools and lucky he was a mopar guy all his life.

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Still trying to locate an input shaft bushing puller. RustyCowll69 offered to clean out his garage to find one, but I hate to be the cause for anyone to do that! I have an inquiry out to see if this will fit the project; https://www.ebay.com/itm/133492542230?ul_noapp=true

I'd never heard of ensuring the input shaft is square to the crank. I lead a sheltered life :)... Mine measures out of true by .007". The offset pins are on the order list. THANKS!!

AJ/FormS said
With these two in their correct positions, the inboard lever should be swinging front to back,parallel to the centerline of the vehicle.

I got a preliminary look at the Z bar on this auto to 4 spd conversion. The arm on the throw out linkage side is bent outward by 1/4" (pic) I'm curious as to the proper process to heat and bend the arm straight without weakening the arm. Can I do this with propane?

The possibility of shimming the Z bar over towards the center of the car was also mentioned. It doesn't look like I have a lot of free room where the clutch rod goes through the firewall (pic again).

And lastly, I still don't know if this Z bar is for a '64 /6. I put a tape on it and the measurements look like this;

If anyone has a '64 /6 Z bar laying around, I'd love to hear how yours compares.

:thankyou: