1968 Plymouth Barracuda Fastback (old school build with a new school feel)

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That is kinda funny, but not when it happens to you.

I picked up the intake manifold gasket today. They had the metal one, so I coated it with the "gasket tact" around the ports, put about 3/8" a bead of black silicone, and a small amount of RTV around the ports on the manifold. I then waited a about 10 minutes to get the bead tacky, then plopped on the intake manifold. It is all tightened down and gonna sit overnight to dry the RTV in place. My valve cover gaskets will be at the parts store in the AM, so I will put them on after work and fire it up.

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Tore into the new engine that I picked to build a stroker out of. I decided to use a 2001 5.9 Magnum that had just under 70,000 miles. I am using this block to minimize machining cost. I can use stock bore sized hypereutectic pistons, do a dingle ball hone, and build a budget stroker. There are no signs of bore wear on this engine at all. The engine is very clean inside and out. Thinking I will go with Indy MA-X heads with the blend job and 2.02 intake valve.

The "brown look" in the cross hatch is just the flash from my phone.

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I like that you are sticking with 15" rims .

To me big modern wheels on a muscle car is like a halter top and short shorts on a 60 year old woman .... just looks out of place .
Yes I went with 15” rims on my ‘69 and they do look right, only thing is 15” tire selection is getting scarce. Only a few choices besides besides BFGs, especially if you want blackwalls - unless you’re ok with buying Chinese. Next time I’ll go for 16”
 
Yes I went with 15” rims on my ‘69 and they do look right, only thing is 15” tire selection is getting scarce. Only a few choices besides besides BFGs, especially if you want blackwalls - unless you’re ok with buying Chinese. Next time I’ll go for 16”

I ended up going Mickey Thompsons. They did not make the size I needed for the front, so I went with a decent non-MT brand
 
I did some oiling mods to my 2001 5.9 Magnum. I drilled the main galleys to the main crank bearings out to 5/16". Then drilled/tapped the crank main to cam bearings. Red Locktited in some set screws, then drilled them down to 5/32", just a bit bigger than what the cam bearings require (.110"). I also matched the hole size of the machined face of the rear main cap into the galley, then smoothed the transition with a die grinder. Drilled an 1/8" hole from the main galley to the cam/oil pump gear drive gear. I am doing this so I can take advantage of running a high volume oil pump. I also drilled 1/4" between the factory holes of oil filter plate. Here are some pics of the galley/main/cam oils supplies:
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On the rear of the left oil galley I pulled out the threaded plug, drilled a 5/32 hole through the center. By doing this, it will spray oil directly onto the distributor drive gear. Also this gets some oil back to the pan a bit quicker as well.

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I finally found a good deal on a 1968 Barracuda Fastback. It is just a 318/Auto car, but soon to be a 340 OD car. I plan to save all the original parts too make it have all the numbers matching stuff for my son one day (He is 8 years old now, so if he becomes more of a numbers guy). From the history that I have found it was a Sable white car with blue interior, sold originally in Texas. It also has dealer installed A/C and cloth seats.
It then went to Washington DC and was painted a Midnight blue for a while. The third owner lived in NC and worked for for Penske Racing, he painted it B5 Blue. I went from NY to NC to get it, along with a 340 shortblock with a .508 purple cam.

Here are some pics from when I bought it:

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Pretty ride! Congratulations
 
I ended up cleaning up the casting slag in the valley, got the engine cleaned from all of the shavings, got the bores cleaned up with a dingle ball hone, and painted the engine red, with a satin finish. Here are some pics, paint still wet so it looks more shiny than it will be tomorrow.

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I upgraded to a HG series full groove main bearing to do a constant feed to the rods. And Dura-Bond HP, Teflon coated camshaft bearings.
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I started assembling the 408 Stroker today. I am running full groove main bearings to give a constant feed of oil to the rods. Main bearing clearances ranged from .0016-.0019". I have nice sore fingers after installing 16 spiral locks without a tool, but all the floating pins and rods are installed with assembly lube. Looks lie I am running 5W20 based on my clearances.


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All the rings are measured to spec for KB Hypereutectic pistons. Bearings are all in spec on the slightly tighter side (0.0016-0.0019 mains), lathered in nasty, icky, snotty assembly lube. Pistons are all installed, crank rotates nicely and getting ready for the next step:

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So after deciding to buy a set of Edelbrock Aluminum Magnum heads, and then calculating my measurements, this is what I am coming up with:
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So after deciding to buy a set of Edelbrock Aluminum Magnum heads, and then calculating my measurements, this is what I am coming up with:
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Which head gaskets? The common FelPro blue are 0.039” compressed I believe. Your calculator is also not taking into account gasket bore... small detail, probably not significant.
 
Which head gaskets? The common FelPro blue are 0.039” compressed I believe. Your calculator is also not taking into account gasket bore... small detail, probably not significant.

You are correct. I also read that I should have the Felpro "pre-crushed 1008 head gaskets for this head. I re did the calculations (added the head gasket CC's to the 58cc heads) using the Summit Racing calculator.

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Heads are here, Howard's recommended cam springs are here, oil pump came in, now just waiting on the new roller cam:

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Small cam for a 408
What HP do you anticipate?
I agree, but it is just a fun street car engine. I am running 3.73 gears and 2400-2600 stall converter. I went for a bit more of a torque cam and do not plan on being over 400 HP. I have always been told by an old timer that knows engines to pick the cam that I think that I want, and then go the next size down.
What are your thoughts? And be honest, I am not sensitive or argumentative, I enjoy learning from others and their thoughts.
 
I agree, but it is just a fun street car engine. I am running 3.73 gears and 2400-2600 stall converter. I went for a bit more of a torque cam and do not plan on being over 400 HP. I have always been told by an old timer that knows engines to pick the cam that I think that I want, and then go the next size down.
What are your thoughts? And be honest, I am not sensitive or argumentative, I enjoy learning from others and their thoughts.
First I am not a cam expert by any means. I do know enough to be dangerous.
Most people that spend the time and money on a performance engine want to get to full potenial out of it for the street or the strip, then you just pattern your driving style around its potenial.
Many factors go into picking the correct cam for your engine. most builders will pick a cam that will utilize the max cfm flow of the cylinder heads. The heads you have will flow more than the cam will allow, kinda like jogging while trying breath thru a small drinking straw.
Just as important is the cam lobe timing events ie the the timing of the open and closing of the valves in relationship to the crankshaft. This has huge bearing on how much cylinder pressure is crated. If you want a low end torque monster this is very important to be correct.
If I were you I would contact the folks at Racer Brown Cams and ask them for a cam recommendation and then compare it to what you have.
Remenber you can always remove HP but it is difficult to add HP once the engine is built.
 
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