340 4 barrel automatic kickdown lever/rod

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That’s the 1 he needs. Kim

Yes and No.

If the kd rod along the firewall has an adjuster, ( which I believe I can see on the posters car)you do not need the rod at the carb to be adjustable. I guess I'm speaking
Pig Latin. :realcrazy:

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Yes and No.

If the kd rod along the firewall has an adjuster, ( which I believe I can see on the posters car)you do not need the rod at the carb to be adjustable. I guess I'm speaking
Pig Latin. :realcrazy:

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View attachment 1715595809

I get what your saying, but look at the rod in your picture, that is the one I was originally looking for. That offset bend to the right is what I need. My rod will not work on either side of the cable bracket and line up with the post on the Carb even if the back linkage is raised or lowered.
 
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Hoping you kickdown guys can provide your input. I believe I have all the correct 340 4bbl linkage, excluding the my 2bbl throttle rod, which I have extended. My question is the angle of the rod and if this will work well. Anyone seen a setup like this or do I need the correct 4bbl throttle rod. Thanks
 
Thanks for the info, unfortunately, finding just that rod without having to purchase the whole set up seems to be near impossible. Anyone knows of one, please let me know. Have heard of plenty of guys on here modifying their 2bbl hardware by extending that rod. Was curious what issues they had
 
Thanks for the info, unfortunately, finding just that rod without having to purchase the whole set up seems to be near impossible. Anyone knows of one, please let me know. Have heard of plenty of guys on here modifying their 2bbl hardware by extending that rod. Was curious what issues they had

Just make one.

Put the rear tail "L" on the one you got. Steel 5/16" rod from the hardward store bend and weld parts together.
Don't have the skills or tools, visit your local iron fabriacator, friend with a welder, or auto body shop, and fabricate what you need.
 
As others have said, bend the rod out close to the throttle bracket and extend the rod further closer to the carb stud. Then you’re geometry will good.

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All you need is a vice, hacksaw or sawzall, and a welder. I have both the AVS and TQ setups that I use for patterns. Bend the rod you have, to get the offset, cut the threads off, cut the threads plus 3/4" to 1" off of another 318 rod, weld together-make it look as pretty as you want. Cut a small tab for the spring and tack that on also..
 
All you need is a vice, hacksaw or sawzall, and a welder. I have both the AVS and TQ setups that I use for patterns. Bend the rod you have, to get the offset, cut the threads off, cut the threads plus 3/4" to 1" off of another 318 rod, weld together-make it look as pretty as you want. Cut a small tab for the spring and tack that on also..
Can u post both rods side by side for us. So we can see the difference. Thanks. Kim
 
JUST BEND THE DAMNED ROD!!!! You are going to trash it if you buy something anyway, so put the thing in a vice, bend slowly, take your time, and make it the shape that you need. When I have used 318 rods in the past the first thing I did was reverse the existing bend so that the rod arches up not down with the end inserted from the outside (fender side), then bend the adjustable end of the rod an inch or so behind the threads to make it perpendicular to the shaft you are mounting to. There should be enough adjustment in the extension and the original adjustment threads to have it adjust the kickdown properly. The pivots are not at all a rigid fit so there's slop in all of them.
 
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