scott657
Well-Known Member
Following right along.
1965 Barracuda 273 rebuild...intake code?
- Thread starter Barracuda 65
- Start date
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cudamark
Well-Known Member
With the stock heads and manifolds, I'd use something real close to the factory 4bbl cam. If it were mine, I'd make it a solid cam and lifters. If you're going to keep it hydraulic, something around a .445" lift would be max IMO.
pishta
I know I'm right....
66-69 273 heads are the same as the 318 heads with the standard LA intake holes ready to take any modern LA intake. I like the Stealth, very close to the sought after dual plane D4B and small port. trouble you'll have is low compression with a later 318 head as they were open chamber heads with exception of the very early 66 273 style or the '302' swirl port heads that may have that casting bump that may interfere with the stock manifolds. Isky E-4 is a popular 273 replacement solid cam with the E-3 being hotter. I used a Herbert Stage 2 cam (no longer listed) in a 318 when my 273-4 spun a bearing and I had to get to work monday. That motor was a great 318 in that 65.
scott657
Well-Known Member
do you know the casting# on the very early 273 heads
pishta
I know I'm right....
2465315 273 1964-65 1.78 1.50
2532080 273 1964-65 1.78 1.50
all other numbers are 66 and newer, when they switched to 3/8 intake bolts and angle.
2532080 273 1964-65 1.78 1.50
all other numbers are 66 and newer, when they switched to 3/8 intake bolts and angle.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
I never saw an 080 head. What did they come on, an export model?
pishta
I know I'm right....
Perhaps, half the casting numbers I never seen myself. I got a set of 315's right in front of me.
Just on the list. No particular application.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I've seen lots of 315's and 920's. Even 315 castings machined like 920's and vice versa! I wonder what is different about an 080.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
The 1964 and 65 heads have intake bolt holes ~16 deg off vertical versus 45 deg of later heads. Your intake bolts appear to go in at 45 deg, making the bolt heads sit flush against the head. That suggests that someone drilled and tapped new holes in your 273 heads. Since you have the intake off, look closely. I think these holes would be in a slightly different spot, higher up, than the original holes. I installed a later aluminum intake manifold on my 1965 273 by making the tops of the holes conical (large drill bit in a hand drill) and flat-head allen bolts (tapered underside) to kind-of fit. I did have a slight steam hiss at the front cross-over, but tightening the bolts fixed it. Since then, I got the correct after-market 4 bbl intake manifold for my engine (angled holes), though haven't installed. Rare but parts eventually turn up on ebay if you keep checking.
I installed hydraulic lifters in my 273, so I could to use Rhoads leak-down lifters. I bought shorter ball & cup pushrods for a ~1972 340TA engine, which also had adjustable rockers (different PN's) w/ hydraulic lifters. Most likely, someone put later stamped-steel non-adjustable rockers on your 273 heads. If so, too bad you lost the adjustable rockers since people will pay >$100 for those.
I installed hydraulic lifters in my 273, so I could to use Rhoads leak-down lifters. I bought shorter ball & cup pushrods for a ~1972 340TA engine, which also had adjustable rockers (different PN's) w/ hydraulic lifters. Most likely, someone put later stamped-steel non-adjustable rockers on your 273 heads. If so, too bad you lost the adjustable rockers since people will pay >$100 for those.
Barracuda 65
Well-Known Member
My head casting numbers are 2465315-2 and I do have a set of solid lifter rockers/arms/lifters for it that I bought earlier for just in case purposes. I believe the heads are stock for 64-65? correct? Also the badging on the car says Commando V8 and the intake air cleaner is an original chrome Commando 273 air cleaner, so I'm guessing that the engine block (2806030-273-7) is not the original and may be entirely different? I did some checking on the VIN and it all matched up as a 273 Commando with Hi-Po engine and 4 speed tranny made in California. I guess I'm going to have to pull the heads off to determine the bore and crank dimensions. Thank you guys for all the feedback and info...it really helps!!
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It sounds like you are on the right track. When you pull the heads look at the piston tops. These are the low compression 2 barrel pistons which are probably the ones you have. 4 valve reliefs.
Here are the high compression pistons with a dome and 3 valve reliefs.
![010700_1422[00].jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/010700_1422-00-jpg.1715631873/ "010700_1422[00].jpg")
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Yes. Looks like you had a block change sometime in it's past. It will work just fine with the 315 heads and other earlier parts. Your VIN won't tell you if your car is a Commando car or not, but, the fender tag will. If it has a 31 under the AB, it's a 4bbl 273. A 30 under the AB and it came with a 2bbl.
Barracuda 65
Well-Known Member
The fender tag was not on the car when I bought it...figures! I'll just have to get inside it to see what I have. Thank you for the pictures showing the difference on the pistons! I also checked the Edelbrock carb they had on it and it is a spreadbore #1406. Had a spacer between the manifold and carb.
Commando66
She's a beaut Clark!
It's obviously not the original 273. You don't have a fender tag. Do you have a broadcast sheet? You could reach out to Chrysler Historical for a printout of the IBM card for your car. Their information can tell you how your car was equipped and where it was shipped. If none of these things work out, it probably doesn't matter what engine is in the car.
The 1406 is a plain old Edelbrock AFB style carb. The secondaries are slightly larger than the primaries but it's not a spread bore.
pishta
I know I'm right....
it also needed the spacer to clear the original 273/4 intake as the bores were smaller than those butterflys! But you got the spreadbore intake so no matter. Dont sweat the bore dimensions unless your rebuilding. we know its a 273 as it states it right on the block. The early 67 318LA blocks could have had the same casting number but used different 318 bore cores. would obviously say 2806030-318-2 or some other 318 core suffix. There should be a clock with a date casting on side of block too, I bet its a 66 date for a 67 model year. use a flashlight/borescope (Ebay, $12 hooks to phone) in the spark plug hole. you may be able to see the piston crown and number of valve reliefs. If you see the reliefs touching or very close, you got the 4bbl pistons. Score!
Barracuda 65
Well-Known Member
I've got to tear it down anyway to see what was rattling inside. Then I'll have a better idea.
Guys thank you again for your help and support! I really appreciate your willingness to share and knowledge!!
pishta
I know I'm right....
Show us some nudes of the pistons! Inquiring minds want to know.....
Barracuda 65
Well-Known Member
Well...I went out and pulled the heads and here's what I found...2 barrel pistons, not 4 barrel High compression. not what I thought I was purchasing 3 years ago...but it did run strong. Any thoughts?
That's what I thought you'd find. It depends how far you want to go with it. If it needs bored and you need pistons anyway you might as well get the high compressions ones. Egge still makes them. What rocker arms do you have? Adjustables? If so you can change to a solid lifter cam like the original engines had with new lifters and pushrods. But, nothing wrong with a hydraulic and lots more choices.
pishta
I know I'm right....
yup. 67 model year 273 with the old 65 heads, probably wrecked the old block and got another later model and moved everything over. Valve job, get a cam to match those lower compression pistons and run it. @AJ/FormS could probably tell you what grind to get to maximize your current mill.
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BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
The Commando 4bbl block is the same as the 2 bbl, only the pistons differ, so other than the casting# being the wrong year, your block is "correct" for a Commando. 4bbl cars had a special exhaust with rear resonator. It is still a single exhaust, but the rear valance has a rectangular slot (driver's side) to clear the resonator, so if your body has that it was an original 4 bbl car. I don't recall if all 4 bbl or a special model (D-Dart, HiPo, forget). A member here in Europe has one and has posted all the info.
Some wonder why they didn't make it dual exhaust. I read that they tested both and found the single exhaust gave more power, similar to the 4-into-1 exhaust conversions that were popular on 1970's motorcycles. One company reproduces that complete exhaust, I recall ~$750. Some have installed a dual exhaust, but you must fab a cut-out in the transmission cross-over on the right side. One exhaust company will do that for you if you ship it and buy their dual-exhaust kit. Dual exhaust might look better to the casual public, but those in the know are more impressed with the resonator HiPo single exhaust.
BTW, if you get the domed HiPo pistons, a racer's trick was to install them clocked backwards. That is because the wrist-pin is slightly off-center, so changes the stroke per crank angle motion. I don't know if that applies to the Egge domed pistons.
I have a few HiPo pistons since I bought a HiPo engine locally for $100, but it sat outside with the V up so all pistons were rusted seized. I got all out by beating, but some were damaged (others questionable). The block would have needed over-sized pistons anyway, unless one were to sleeve all cylinders to use standard-size pistons. The block isn't special, but at least the crankshaft and rockers are good, so worth the price. Too bad the guy used the special finned valve covers (rare & valuable) on another engine. If anyone needs a 1965 block to be correct, I'll sell it cheap if near Sacramento or off I-99 or I-5 my next trip to LA or San Diego to visit kids. OP is in TX, so shipping a block is $$$, but small parts, like the pushrods (longer for solid lifters) I could mail.
Some wonder why they didn't make it dual exhaust. I read that they tested both and found the single exhaust gave more power, similar to the 4-into-1 exhaust conversions that were popular on 1970's motorcycles. One company reproduces that complete exhaust, I recall ~$750. Some have installed a dual exhaust, but you must fab a cut-out in the transmission cross-over on the right side. One exhaust company will do that for you if you ship it and buy their dual-exhaust kit. Dual exhaust might look better to the casual public, but those in the know are more impressed with the resonator HiPo single exhaust.
BTW, if you get the domed HiPo pistons, a racer's trick was to install them clocked backwards. That is because the wrist-pin is slightly off-center, so changes the stroke per crank angle motion. I don't know if that applies to the Egge domed pistons.
I have a few HiPo pistons since I bought a HiPo engine locally for $100, but it sat outside with the V up so all pistons were rusted seized. I got all out by beating, but some were damaged (others questionable). The block would have needed over-sized pistons anyway, unless one were to sleeve all cylinders to use standard-size pistons. The block isn't special, but at least the crankshaft and rockers are good, so worth the price. Too bad the guy used the special finned valve covers (rare & valuable) on another engine. If anyone needs a 1965 block to be correct, I'll sell it cheap if near Sacramento or off I-99 or I-5 my next trip to LA or San Diego to visit kids. OP is in TX, so shipping a block is $$$, but small parts, like the pushrods (longer for solid lifters) I could mail.
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