Need 1964 Dodge Dart Convertible Top Pictures!

Thanks. Very useful. I have done almost everything on my 1964 Valiant conv except installing a top. I plan to buy a canvas one (expensive so holding off). It came w/ the top stripped and just the side pads. I took the frame apart, removed all rust (soaked in phosphoric acid) & painted white, so if anyone needs photos of top frame parts ask. Mine doesn't have the side tension cables, and I saw them in catalogs, so wondered. I do see a tiny hole on the front steel bow and aft aluminum frame (both sides) as in post 11, though doesn't appear they ever had screws in those holes. Those are small screws, so likely little tension on the cable and perhaps their purpose is just to help keep the top from flapping. Mine does have the adjustable tension cables on the rear bow. Mine had disconnected lift cylinders and was missing the shoulder bolt (?) which connects to the frame (lower right photo of post #4). The FSM shows a forked end on the cylinder, but my old cylinders weren't, nor the replacements I bought. Anyway, I bought bolts and nuts at Ace which "should work". My car also had 2 large springs for a manual top in the trunk, but I see no place they would attach, so perhaps manual frames differ. PM if anyone needs them.

The FSM shows the two allen screw adjustments on each side. In post 6, top photo, one allen screw is in the hole in the U-channel of the frame at bottom of photo. The larger steel round part in the upper aluminum frame is the "target" which the allen screw acts against. For one screw (each side), you must remove the chrome weatherstrip channel to get at the screw head. But, they likely corroded in the aluminum frame. I had to drill out all 4 allen screws, using a cobalt drill (carefully center), then cleaned up the threaded holes w/ a tap and coated the new screws w/ anti-seize. One hole got buggered up, so I had to tap it larger for a larger set-screw. Similarly, about half the sheet-metal screws which secure the chrome channels snapped since corroded into the aluminum, so had to vice-grip or drill out.

In top photo of post #6, the small hole thought to be "a lube point" has a roll-pin which secures a groove in a cylinder which slides into the aluminum frame as a pivot. That doesn't move in the aluminum (no lube needed), rather the steel frame piece rotates on the pressed-in pivot cylinder. There are steel wave springs on each side, which were rusted and split in mine. You need high-quality roll-pin drivers to get them out and ample lube, even heat at some. I buggered some up by first using a cut nail to drive them, so had to drill them out (requires cobalt drill bit). I used nylon washers on each side in place of the wave washers. There are about 4 of those pivots on each side.

Best not to try separating the 2 aluminum frame pieces by pressing out the steel pivot pin. I broke one aluminum hinge by trying that, probably because I mushroomed the steel pin so it wouldn't fit thru the hole. Took me over a day to fix that w/ a steel strap to secure the broken part (can't weld cast aluminum). Coat all steel parts w/ anti-seize before installing back in the aluminum holes or next-guy will be cussing in 40 years (could be you).