833 Transmission won't disengage at stop after 100 miles.

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It's just like finding an address in the boonies, sometimes you go down a lot of wrong roads. But if you keep at it, you'll get there. Looks like you are well on your way. I am curious, did you dial in the bell? And if you did, what were the readings on the face and the bore?

I found the lowest reading at about 1 o'clock and a max difference of 0.014" at about 7 o'clock. They say to cut the reading in half for an offset of 0.007". The service manual says a max offset of 0.008" is allowed, but as long as I had everything taken apart, why not mess with it? Offset alignment pins are available in 7, 14, and 21 thousands (I think). I bought the 0.007" pins, and after giving it my best shot, I was off by 0.004" at about 10 o'clock, I think it was. Should have been "0" but I didn't have the steam to remove and re-install the pins again. That was the no fun zone with the engine in the car.
 
Hmm. What were the face readings? With the problem with the pilot bushing I'd suspected that being cocked.
 
Hmm. What were the face readings? With the problem with the pilot bushing I'd suspected that being cocked.
I didn't do a face reading. Is that common? What is accepted tollerance? I don't recall seeing that in the Factory Service Manual...
 
No kidding. I sure didn't run the dial indicator around the face. If it shows disengagement symptoms like that again, I'll go back inside and check the twice surfaced flywheel and parallel alignment of the bellhousing to flywheel.

Thanks for the info!:thankyou:
 
No problem. In all the bell housings I've ever checked, I've only run into one that had to be shimmed at the bolts to get the face to come in. If I had it to do all over I think I'd had a machine shop put the bell in a mill and check parallelism. If it was off, I'd probably have taken a cut on the transmission face of the bell to square it up rather than shim. I've had the most problems with resurfaced flywheels. Sometimes the shop doesn't clean the crank flange face of the flywheel or they don't get the hub of the grinder clean so the flywheel seats down square and the flywheel ends up being cocked in the grinder. One flywheel I had done twice before I decided the shop I was using just couldn't get it done and changed shops.
 
Finally got the Dart out for some road time today. Lengthened the 1-2 shift linkage one turn because 2nd was bumping the shifter handle on down shift and 2nd was jumping out on heavy deceleration. Cured...

And man, it is all good! Maybe even better than it's been since we bought the car. Replaced the new clutch and throw-out bearing, new pilot bushing, disassembled cleaned and lubed the shifter, offset pins between the block and bellhousing, and straightened / reinforced the Z bar with a new bellhousing mount for the Z bar. The little woman couldn't stop gushing about what a genius I am, and how great "her" little car drives.

You guys' advice is doing wonders for my sex life!!!:D
 
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