Guess the race part

Guess the race part

  • It’s not a race part

    Votes: 3 15.0%
  • I don’t know what race parts look like

    Votes: 1 5.0%
  • I like cake

    Votes: 16 80.0%

  • Total voters
    20
  • Poll closed .
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You're going to have to show us more on that here! I've thought of pressure oil feeding the mains on a big block similar to some early fueler block modifications. I'd like to see how that plumbs up to the positive pressure on the block.
 
You're going to have to show us more on that here! I've thought of pressure oil feeding the mains on a big block similar to some early fueler block modifications. I'd like to see how that plumbs up to the positive pressure on the block.


I’ll see if I can draw something up and take a picture. Without something to look at it can be hard to visualize and I don’t have any empty blocks here at the moment.
 
I’ll see if I can draw something up and take a picture. Without something to look at it can be hard to visualize and I don’t have any empty blocks here at the moment.

Is that kinda like "I lost my notes"? ....askin for a friend.
 
Is that kinda like "I lost my notes"? ....askin for a friend.


LOL...it’s kinda like I can’t draw for sheeeit and it probably won’t make much sense.

If I had a block here, I’d round up the old lady, drag her to the shop and have her video the explanation of how they guy that I bought my first W2 junk fixed the rod bearing oiling issue.

I’ll see if I can draw up something so it makes some sense.
 
did someone say cake....??
11805732.jpg
 
Umm I think I got it now. He had this thing in the oil pan spraying oil up at the connecting rods


No. LOL.

The pipe thread was screwed into the main cap where the oil is coming from the pressure side of the pump to the filter.

The 4 threaded holes had number 4 fittings in them, and each one of them had a hose that connected to a fitting on the bottom of the main cap.

The oil passages from the passenger side lifter gallery are plugged with set screws as is the feed to the drivers side lifter gallery so there is no pressurized oil to the lifters on the drivers side.

You MUST run full groove bearings and you MUST across drill the crank for it to work.

You also need to restrict the oil to the cam bearings to ~.080 or so.

The biggest issue doing it this way is the oil going to the bearings is only filtered half the time. It all gets filtered eventually, but the oil coming off the pump to that distribution block is unfiltered.

And, I don’t care who does the machine work or assembly, there is always trash in the oil. Trash from the retainers, from the springs rubbing on each other and just general crapola.

That means the unfiltered oil going to the bearing had junk in it. So I was constantly dropping the pan to keep an eye on how much garbage was getting into the bearings and then changing them out. I think the longest I went on set of rod bearing was 30 passes. Then there was enough foknoid embedded in them that I just changed them. 20 became the number of passes before I changed them out.

The cool thing about that system is no one who didn’t know what was in the pan, had no clue it was in there. It was all in the pan, so nobody could see it.

The uncool thing was the unfiltered oil to the bearings. So I moved that distribution block out of the pan and onto the firewall. I made it out of a 3 inch OD piece of aluminum tube with a .187 wall (IIRC...it may have been .250 wall...that was 1993 so it’s been a while) and it had 5 hoses coming off the bottom of it.

So the main feed from the pump went to the FILTER!!! (I used a System 1 filter) and from the filter to the top of the distribution can with number 12 hose.

The bottom had 5 hoses, one for each main. The 1-4 mains had to go into the pan, where number 5 gets fed from the main feed back into the block.

At the pan I used number 4 bulkhead fittings. On the inside of the pan were four number 4 hoses, one for each main. You could leave enough hose length to drop the pan down 6 inches to get the hoses off the main caps and take the pan off.

The nice thing about the way I changed the system was filtered oil to the bearings and I could (and did) block the internal bypass on the pump and I used an external bypass so I could adjust the oil pressure. And, I could control where the bypass oil returned to the pan.

I hope that makes sense. That fitting in the picture is one way (if you have the right oil pan) to fix the rod bearing oiling issues in a small block MoPar.

I’d never do that method again. I’d do it externally so I could get filtered oil to the bearings all the time.

In fact, I have 2 oil pans that can use that system, in case my brains fall out and I decide that shifting at 8500 is what I want to do again.
 
would today's answer to the oiling problem be a smaller diameter rod bearing? 2 or 1.88"? or is there an inherent deficiency in the oiling system at that rpm?
 
That’s an excellent question. All the high rpm SBM custom cranks ive seen use a 2 inch rod journal. I’ve read somewhere that the Honda sized rod journals are too small for the reciprocating mass for anything less than a billet crank. But I have seen some that use a small block Ford main journal with the 2 inch diameter rod journal. I do know the factory oil system needs a lot of help once you start revving past 7500 rpm.
 
We use to use a rear oiller back in the 70's..extra oil line to the rear of the block that came off the oil pump.
 
would today's answer to the oiling problem be a smaller diameter rod bearing? 2 or 1.88"? or is there an inherent deficiency in the oiling system at that rpm?


All that type of thing helps, but you have to get the oil out to the rods at the right time.

An example is full groove main bearings. When you use them, you get SOME oil out to the rods all the time. But you still don’t get full pressure, full flow oil to the rods at the right time.

So what happens is the full groove mains will help with rod bearing oiling up to a higher RPM than without them, but you will at some point reach an RPM where they no longer get the oil there and bang...out comes a rod.

If you think about the TIME involved, it starts to make sense. When the oil hole in the block lines up with the oil hole in main bearing of the crank at say...2500 RPM and let’s say for easy math (I hate math) that at that RPM the two holes line up for 1 second.

At 5000 RPM (this is where I get a bit soggy on the math) if it was a linear reduction in time, the two holes would only line up for half a second. But...IIRC it’s not a half reduction but more than that. Something like they are only lined up for .25 seconds.

Where are the math geeks?

At 7500 RPM (which is 200% faster than 2500) the time the holes are lined up is again much shorter. I think at that point it’s less than .1 second. Again, these aren’t real numbers. The real time is actually probably 6 or 7 digits out .0000002 or something like that.

As you keep going up in RPM you reduce the TIME the two holes line up. As that happens, the oil getting to the rods at the right time becomes more critical and you just can’t rely on the full groove bearings to save it.

Good oil pan with a 1 inch pickup (or better yet a dual pick up) is a big deal. As the RPM goes up, the restriction at the pickup gets higher, so anything done to reduce that restriction is a big deal.

Stoping all the oil leaks at the lifters is another big deal. That’s more oil being forced through the system and not leaking past the lifters.

Of course, we are talking about shifting at 8000 and higher. Maybe tomorrow I’ll take a picture of the two different styles of pickups that I know work.
 
would today's answer to the oiling problem be a smaller diameter rod bearing? 2 or 1.88"? or is there an inherent deficiency in the oiling system at that rpm?

What oiling problem is that? The one YR made up?
 
See, why come here and be a prick? You’ve never shifted about 5500 so you have NOTHING to add, except being a Dumbfuck and celebrating dumbfuckery.

You don't that. AT ALL. I knew that would rile you up. It worked too. lol
 
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