Reinforcements for whole floor removal
I took my sons car, a 69 barracuda notch this far apart to replace all the floor metal from the firewall pinch weld to the rear valance. It had hacked in pop riveted aluminum mini tubs, hack relocated springs, and subframe connectors previously installed.
I wanted to put it back to stock and remove the spring relocators as well. I left the subframe connectors and a small piece of trunk floor at the *** end tying the rear valance and frame together just so I could roll it around to sandblast it all inside and out. That small piece I eventually removed and discarded when I did the trunk pan and rear valance replacement.
I rolled it around on its rear leaf springs and front suspension to push it outside to sandblast the inner and outer sides of the framerails. The only extra bracing under there was the subframe connectors. If all your doing is replacing the main floor tub and just pushing it in and out of the garage, then you shouldn't have to brace anything providing the engine and transmission are out. I say that since I dont know how the extra weight pressing down on the torsion bar crossmember and torsion bars is going to affect things with the floor out. Granted mine is a bit extreme as far as dissassembly, I also made sure it was level before welding in any floor panels. As far as bracing it front to rear you would be surprised at how strong your rocker panels are providing theres no rust thru. They are essentially the mid body framerails on a unibody car.
Check out my build thread 67/68/69 cuda dilemma and start on about page 16. You will see how far I had it apart and rolled it around on suspension. Heres some pix after sandblasting and before epoxy priming though. When installing the floor pan, remove one door, and the steering column, then roll down the quarter window on the same side as the door you removed and fit the whole pan right in from that side of the car through the door and window hole.
I took my sons car, a 69 barracuda notch this far apart to replace all the floor metal from the firewall pinch weld to the rear valance. It had hacked in pop riveted aluminum mini tubs, hack relocated springs, and subframe connectors previously installed.
I wanted to put it back to stock and remove the spring relocators as well. I left the subframe connectors and a small piece of trunk floor at the *** end tying the rear valance and frame together just so I could roll it around to sandblast it all inside and out. That small piece I eventually removed and discarded when I did the trunk pan and rear valance replacement.
I rolled it around on its rear leaf springs and front suspension to push it outside to sandblast the inner and outer sides of the framerails. The only extra bracing under there was the subframe connectors. If all your doing is replacing the main floor tub and just pushing it in and out of the garage, then you shouldn't have to brace anything providing the engine and transmission are out. I say that since I dont know how the extra weight pressing down on the torsion bar crossmember and torsion bars is going to affect things with the floor out. Granted mine is a bit extreme as far as dissassembly, I also made sure it was level before welding in any floor panels. As far as bracing it front to rear you would be surprised at how strong your rocker panels are providing theres no rust thru. They are essentially the mid body framerails on a unibody car.
Check out my build thread 67/68/69 cuda dilemma and start on about page 16. You will see how far I had it apart and rolled it around on suspension. Heres some pix after sandblasting and before epoxy priming though. When installing the floor pan, remove one door, and the steering column, then roll down the quarter window on the same side as the door you removed and fit the whole pan right in from that side of the car through the door and window hole.