need 3/10th

Hi, Marco what I was trying to do in the post above was to get you back to a neutral set up that will hopefully get the car to go straight and get rid of the bounce or porpoising. If you tighten up the shocks it will most likely make it porpoise worst. When my Dart is working the best it is always with a lighter shock setting, my CalTracs are set in the top hole with zero preload with me in the drivers seat and my older 5 position shocks set on 2 (positions 4 and 5 will make it porpoise) the car will hit the tires hard and get about 3 to 4 inches of body separation at the wheel well. It will get a half to one turn of the tires and plant them and gone( I dump the clutch at 5000 off a 2 step), but I run a Jerico 4 spd. with a 3.04 first gear, 4.10 rear gear, and an aluminum flywheel and SoftLoc clutch(the clutch takes up some of the hit and slips enough to keeps the engine in it's power band). The most important thing with CalTracs is to have an absolute minimum of 5 inches of up travel in the front suspension and set your front shocks to full louse. Adjust your launch RPM till you get the car to come out clean, no bog an 1 to 3 turns of the tires with your clutch. Once you get it repeatable then you can start playing with your CalTracs and shock adjustments to find the best 60 foots, you already have your shifting down. The ClutchTamer will really help in the launch repeatability and keeping the RPM's from dropping to low on the launch but it dose put a lot of heat into the clutch, so round robin runs can be a problem with out a cool down between rounds. I've been running my Dart since 1999 and I've been totally frustrated with what my car was doing many of times over the years and always looked to people who new more than me for guidance, lot of good people out there so don't be afraid to ask them for guidance.