Is this LA360 XE268 cam kit deal good for my combo?

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JoePole1

A dude in a B body
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I found a Great deal on CL for a brand new Comp XE268 cam kit (cam,lifters,springs,keepers,seals,retainers,timing set).
I have checked the forum and know that this is a popular cam in a SBM. I know this won't be optimal in my LA360 but sounds like a good performer for my current combo. WITHOUT GETTING INTO A CAM SELECTION WORLD WAR....do you think I will be happy in my B-body? I use it for spirited cruising and twisty roads with 30% highway. Need somewhat decent fuel mileage (>15?). Need good torque (advance 268?). <6000RPM.
Yes I will need pushrods and yes I am concerned about the lifter quality.

Current mill has about 8000 miles on it. Runs great but down on power.
1978 LA 360 .030 Stock replacement dish pistons.
1978 LA 360 smog heads. .042 milled. Pocket ported.
150 psi cyl pressure (Crane H260-2 current 204/216,260/272,427/454)
Stock springs. Stamped steel rockers shimmed. Not sure the amount. Slightly longer pushrods. Not sure the amount.
Mr Gasket thin head gasket .028
Estimated CR 8.4.
Edelbrock Performer intake (milled to match heads) with 1406 600cfm carb.
Windage tray and intake shielding.
340 HiPo manifolds and 2.5" exhaust. Have long tube headers to install.
904 auto trans. 340 2400? hi-stall converter from Pat Blais.
3.55:1 SG. 26 inch tire
Car weighs about 3600# 72 Satellite.
26 inch tires.
Power brakes, power steering and A/C.

Options
I have a set of EQ 1.88 heads, Air gap knock off and Holley street avenger 660 but I
am saving for my never ending 360 Magnum build and my intention is to sell the running LA complete when the Magnum is finished.
 
In my experience, no. Step away and regroup. That would not be my pick at all. You have a heavy car and for that... not a good deal for you at all. I'm sure people will pile on but on top of that... that camshaft will tick and drive you mad. Money much better spent on good pistons to get your compression up to par.​
 
You have a heavy car and for that...
Debatable as well as he needs more stall.
that camshaft will tick and drive you mad.
You don’t know that for sure. Eskers that would be a lifter issue.

Money much better spent on good pistons to get your compression up to par.
Not Necessarily so.
 
In my experience, no. Step away and regroup. That would not be my pick at all. You have a heavy car and for that... not a good deal for you at all. I'm sure people will pile on but on top of that... that camshaft will tick and drive you mad. Money much better spent on good pistons to get your compression up to par.​
Not planning on a piston change. As I said.....I am building a magnum 360 with higher CR. I could put my EQ's and air gap copy on it but that would make it tough to sell a short block LA down the road. And then what to do with the milled heads and intake?
In your experience have you run the XE268 cam in a lower CR 360? If so, how did it perform?I

Btw....the only reason I am considering this is because the guy is asking $225 and everybody could use a little mopower.
 
Not enough compression for that cam in my opinion. I run that cam in my 8.9:1 318 and had to advance it 4 degrees because the low end was soft as baby ****. And that’s with 3.91s and a 4 speed. It’s a little better advanced but still not the “right” cam for the combo. Will it run in your 360? Sure it will. You’d probably pick up a little top end at the expense of a lot of bottom end. My advice, buy it and save it for a future project or flip it and make a few bucks.
 
Degree the camshaft. I didn't see where that was done. I would install it down about 106 ICL. That's 2 degrees advanced from the cam card, but it has low static compression and that'll help. Then, get you a good hot ignition curve. Something on the order of 20 degrees initial timing, 36 total and all in by 2500 RPM. That will turn it into a tire frying beast and all you will have done is labor and maybe an advance spring kit and an FBO limiter plate. Cheap cheap. ALWAYS be leery of advice like "get new heads" or "get different pistons". Most combos can be made to haul *** with some tuning. You just have to know what to do.
 
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That's what I was worried about (low end) and thinking (install advanced). I just have no experience in that sort of thing and why I am here. Waiting to hear back from seller to see what springs are in the kit. Assuming 901-16's. That would be a plus and save machining. Thanks guys.
 
That's what I was worried about (low end) and thinking (install advanced). I just have no experience in that sort of thing and why I am here. Waiting to hear back from seller to see what springs are in the kit. Assuming 901-16's. That would be a plus and save machining. Thanks guys.

Dive in and do it. We won't let you get hung up. If you can pull the balancer, water pump and timing cover....and I'm sure you can, you can do it all. And no way in HELL do I recommend that 268. It's a good bit bigger and will make what little cylinder pressure you have plummet. You can make what you have RUN with cam and ignition timing changes. And I'm talking about a BIG power change.
 
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Joe, I would not run the cam myself under the parts you have for it. Since you did t purchase the cam, save yourself a headache and leave it alone and focus on the prize, the other engine.
 
I wouldn't run that with stock valve springs. I think the cam itself would be ok but I would replace the springs. It's gonna be soft on the low end tho.
 
Ahhhh....I thought you meant install the 268 advanced. Gotcha. So I got 3 votes for ditching the kit.

Oh heck no. That 268 is a terrible mismatch, IMO. What you have is a great match. Your combo simply needs some tuning.
 
that cam will be very soft at lo rpm but will have good midrange and up power.Not a good choice for your car on the street....yes i have used it it.
i like the cam you have.
 
Degree the camshaft. I didn't see where that was done. I would install it down about 106 ICL. That's 2 degrees advanced from the cam card, but it has low static compression and that'll help. Then, get you a good hot ignition curve. Something on the order of 20 degrees initial timing, 36 total and all in by 2500 RPM. That will turn it into a tire frying beast and all you will have done is labor and maybe an advance spring kit and an FBO limiter plate. Cheap cheap. ALWAYS be leery of advice like "get new heads" or "get different pistons". Most combos can be made to haul *** with some tuning. You just have to know what to do.
Can you guys explain to me what advancing my current cam does for me. I understand raising the static CR (amount?) but will it also make it feel like a larger cam (or smaller)? If so.....what kind of numbers are we talking about? I bought this engine as "rebuilt" but did tear it down to bare block and reassemble. At that time I degreed the cam and installed straight up but I do now have a 3 position timing chain to install. I am somewhat concerned with the RPM range being 1500-4500. Not that I race it but power topping out at 4500 seems pretty low. Was told this is more of an RV (torque) cam. Thanks.
 
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The power band is where you get the most for the least.Your engine will rev well past 5000 rpm with that cam and continue to accelerate but hp won't increase much.
A 26" tire, 3.55 gear and 5000 rpm will be over 100 mph.
 
Can you guys explain to me what advancing my current cam does for me. I understand raising the static CR (amount?) but will it also make it feel like a larger cam (or smaller)? If so.....what kind of numbers are we talking about? I bought this engine as "rebuilt" but did tear it down to bare block and reassemble. At that time I degreed the cam and installed straight up but I do now have a 3 position timing chain to install. I am somewhat concerned with the RPM range being 1500-4500. Not that I race it but power topping out at 4500 seems pretty low. Was told this is more of an RV (torque) cam. Thanks.

Advancing the cam won't raise the static compression. It will raise the dynamic compression and increase cylinder pressure because the intake valve will close sooner. I'll leave it to someone much smarter than me to explain what that would result in, in terms of seat of the pants feel, but it should increase low-end torque and hp.

One thing you may think about is going with the XE268 and advance that 4-6*.
 
That sounds like a good deal to me, I’d buy it. Try googling “mopar 360 xe268”
You will find many people that have used it with good results. You will find some unhappy people that have it in a 318 but we’re not talking about that here.
 
Can you guys explain to me what advancing my current cam does for me. I understand raising the static CR (amount?) but will it also make it feel like a larger cam (or smaller)? If so.....what kind of numbers are we talking about? I bought this engine as "rebuilt" but did tear it down to bare block and reassemble. At that time I degreed the cam and installed straight up but I do now have a 3 position timing chain to install. I am somewhat concerned with the RPM range being 1500-4500. Not that I race it but power topping out at 4500 seems pretty low. Was told this is more of an RV (torque) cam. Thanks.
Please define ".......degreed the cam and installed straight up........"
 
Can you guys explain to me what advancing my current cam does for me. I understand raising the static CR (amount?) but will it also make it feel like a larger cam (or smaller)? If so.....what kind of numbers are we talking about? I bought this engine as "rebuilt" but did tear it down to bare block and reassemble. At that time I degreed the cam and installed straight up but I do now have a 3 position timing chain to install. I am somewhat concerned with the RPM range being 1500-4500. Not that I race it but power topping out at 4500 seems pretty low. Was told this is more of an RV (torque) cam. Thanks.

Your engine suffers from low cylinder pressure. Advancing the camshaft will raise the cylinder pressure and add useful power right where it's lacking. Once that's done, then you need to recurve the distributor. Doing the two will have a drastic effect on the power output of your engine.
 
Can you guys explain to me what advancing my current cam does for me. I understand raising the static CR (amount?) but will it also make it feel like a larger cam (or smaller)? If so.....what kind of numbers are we talking about? I bought this engine as "rebuilt" but did tear it down to bare block and reassemble. At that time I degreed the cam and installed straight up but I do now have a 3 position timing chain to install. I am somewhat concerned with the RPM range being 1500-4500. Not that I race it but power topping out at 4500 seems pretty low. Was told this is more of an RV (torque) cam. Thanks.

Stop thinking. That RPM range is merely a generic "guess" for advertisement purposes. That camshaft will pull well beyond 4500 RPM. Also, you need a better timing chain set if you expect to be able to zero in on the camshaft timing the way you need to. I would recommend one of the Cloyes billet sets with the nine way crank gear. Then you'll have something. Just DO what we're recommending. Turn the brain OFF and just DO IT. You'll be thankful, I promise. I wouldn't recommend something if I didn't think it would work. The cam card for that cam does not say to install it "STRAIGHT UP". If that's what you did, you are at least 4* retarded. Because of your low cylinder pressure, I recommend installing it down around a 106 ICL. That's 6* total advanced, instead of the recommended 4*. Once you get that done, then you can proceed to the ignition curve.
 
I verified tdc on number 1 cylinder with the heads off ( dial indicator) and installed cam dot to dot on timing gear set. That was 8k miles ago.

That's just installed dot to dot. That's not degreed.
 
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