dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Yes it is on the pan now. I could feel it when I put the pan on.
My 360 build
- Thread starter dartfreak75
- Start date
-
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
More pics. Other than the intake and accessories its pretty much done. Now I just gotta get it in the car.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Question! Do yall use the gaskets provided for the China walls or just a bead of rtv? Iv read alot of ppl just use rtv im kinda leaning towards both. Rtv on both sides of the gasket.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
NO GASKET. Just RTV and send it.
flavor ? Ultra black is what I use.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Im using jb weld brand black
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Well just found out that the pulleys i cleaned and painted don't fit. The diameter is to big and they hit each other. I dug out my other set they came off the 318 they fit so I will use them. I found a water pump pulley that will work with the crank pulley that I painted but its shorter and uses the first grove closet to the front of the engine im not sure if that will work with my alternator? The set on the 318 has 3 groves
This is real progress! Lookin good! What are you installing the balancer with? It does look like maybe it could go back a little farther.......but it's difficult to tell not being right on top of it. If you're not using a balancer installer, be extra careful. Sometimes it can deceive you. Sounds like lifter preload is right in the ballpark.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I got it started by hand and tapped it with a block till I could get to the threads with the bolt then just tightened it down with the bolt.
Another question. I got all the valve train installed and marked the pushrods and rolled it over by hand (ratchet on the crankbolt) to check for turning. Im not seeing any rotation? Does it need to be rotated faster to rotate the lifters or should they turn when cranking by hand?
I know there are many here who say not to use the cork gaskets on the china walls but I do, and while the “no gasket just RTV is good”, when contemplating that method all that comes to my mind is this: Biggest issue is cleanliness. You read the instructions that Felpro provides you ensure an oil free surface, I bend the little head gasket ears/nubs up a little, run thin beads of rtv ultra black at each corner of the head/block junction, peel the paper from each gasket and stick them on the clean dry block, making sure those head gasket nubs go into the little holes, then I push the nubs back down to how they were, then run a bead on top of the gasket/head junction to fill in the small gap and then install the intake otherwise dry. I’ve done this countless times with never a problem with leaks, squishing out of the cork gaskets, and removal and cleanup of the intake is easy. The key is cleanliness and following the little instruction paper they provide with the gasket set.
Last edited:
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
The only problem with the gaskets on the China rail is the thickness. I try and run the gap much tighter than the thickness of that gasket. I can hold the intake up.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Nice work!!
im doing nearly the same damn build for my ‘74 W200.
360 .030 over
Speedpro Hypereutectic pistons
Polished stock cast crank, and resized rods with ARP bolts.
SpeedMaster aluminum heads, factory stamped rockers.
Mild truck/RV cam with Air Gap manifold.
im doing nearly the same damn build for my ‘74 W200.
360 .030 over
Speedpro Hypereutectic pistons
Polished stock cast crank, and resized rods with ARP bolts.
SpeedMaster aluminum heads, factory stamped rockers.
Mild truck/RV cam with Air Gap manifold.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Here is it all finished. I still have some small stuff to do but the majority of its done. I broke a manifold stud off so I gotta try and get that out tomorrow. Go figure right? But other than that its ready for the flexplate and transmission. Hopefully this time next week I will be putting it in the car.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Here is some with the hat off. I love the looks of that thermoquad
Looks real good, man.
ChargedDart75
Well-Known Member
Looks like it broke off flush. That blows.
Nice choice with the thermoquad too.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
ChargedDart75
Well-Known Member
Might put some heat on it before you try to extract it. It may help unseize it.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
If it's tight enough to brake off, an easy out probably won't work, but it's worth a try. Just be careful not to break it off or you'll have a bigger problem.
I've had good luck drilling it out and re-tapping to the appropriate size. Good luck! I hate when that happens.
I've had good luck drilling it out and re-tapping to the appropriate size. Good luck! I hate when that happens.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Yea I was thinking that too.
I posted over on your project thread about left-handed drill bits. Worth a try.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
If you have a torch that isn’t propane, heat that stud up until it’s red hot. Squirt some WD-40 on it while it’s hot (free contact high if you’re into that kinda thing) and then see if you can take a punch and get it to turn.
The last option should be drilling it out by hand.
Watch out on your bolts going into the front of that block when you put your brackets on and tighten down your water pump.
I bought a motor one time that the guy had cranked down a water pump bolt that was to long and bent the cylinder wall and then the Piston stuck.
I bought a motor one time that the guy had cranked down a water pump bolt that was to long and bent the cylinder wall and then the Piston stuck.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I got it out. The last option way. Lol I broke 2 different easy outs heat was not a help that sucker was seized. Drilled it out and retaped the hole good to go now.
-
