OK first (if you have not) go to MyMopar.com and download a free factory service manual and then go to the "wiring" section and also download the 2 page aftermarket wiring diagrams. These are not as detailed as the shop manual, but can be easier to follow
Then get into section 8 of the service manual. Just a page or two before the start of the diagrams, is a chart showing what each fuse serves
Once you have that, you can start to troubleshoot. One way is to devise a way to prevent further damage and to avoid using up money by blowing fuses. "Rig" your self at least one stop/ tail light socket/ pigtail and an 1157 lamp. Not an LED replacement, but a lamp. You want something that draws current. "Rig" alligator clips following:
Hook a clip lead to the lap shell, and twist the tail/ stop wires together out of the socket. Hook your second alligator clip to those two. Now hook the two clip jumpers to the two fuse clips. In other words, you have replaced the fuse with this light bulb.
1..Does it light with the light switch turned off? If so, the trouble is likely not in the lighting circuit, but rather something else connected to the fuse shorted
2..The test light will come on with the light switch on. Now you have to eliminate. Start by pulling the connnector loose down in the left side kick panel. This is the harness going to the rear of the car, and carries stop/ turn lamp, tail light, and fuel sender wiring, as well as reverse lamps
If the light is still on "bright" go around front and see if the two front park lights are working--might be "dim". Pull those apart and remove bulbs. At this time, if the short was in the rear harness, and the bulbs removed from front, the test light should be DARK. If it lights, you still have a short "in the car."
A common short area for this problem is where the back seat is near the rear harness, it can "kink" the harness and damage it. Also inspect the rear lights area, the pigtail assemblies in the sockets, etc.
