ARP Studs

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circlepilot

circlepilot

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65 225...How about some feed back from anyone who has used ARP studs for the mains and the head. My head and main bolts appear to be in good shape, but the history of what they have been subjected to is unclear. I wouldn't have any concern if I was going back "stock" on the build.
Norm
 
circlepilot said:
65 225...How about some feed back from anyone who has used ARP studs for the mains and the head. My head and main bolts appear to be in good shape, but the history of what they have been subjected to is unclear. I wouldn't have any concern if I was going back "stock" on the build.
Norm
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I recently built a performance slant and used ARP head and main studs. I used studs as that engine is over 10:1 compression and has a host of other performance parts. The way studs apply clamp load without turning should improve integrity to the engine structure. With that said, I have never heard of an actual failure of an OE head or main bolt. As long as your bolts are not gouged or nicked or they should be fine to re use.
If you are going to have the cylinders over bored or the crank line bored and plan to use studs, you should have the mains and the torque plate bolted in with the studs during the machining.
 
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Main studs are a good idea for a real performance build as the slant sixes only have four main bearings. While that's a physical fact, I do have to say I've never seen a slant six with the bottom blowed out of it either.
 
Charrlie_S said:
I have, but not a normally aspirated street motor. One was a full boogie race motor, the other was a high boost turbo motor.
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I almost tagged you to ask, because I knew if anyone had seen it, it was you. Those two are pretty extreme examples. I would think they'd hold up to pretty much anything up to those points, don't you? Even with only four main bearings, they are like a force of nature they're so strong.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I almost tagged you to ask, because I knew if anyone had seen it, it was you. Those two are pretty extreme examples. I would think they'd hold up to pretty much anything up to those points, don't you? Even with only four main bearings, they are like a force of nature they're so strong.
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Thanks for the comments...BTW Charrlie, knows what I'm building. The use and installation of studs is something I had not done on a car engine, that didn't already have them, (had lot of experience with them on aircraft engines) so...consult with the experts.
Thanks.
Norm
 
I have a set of main, head studs, and rod bolts on the shelf. I have never felt the need to use them, on my motors. That said, I wouldn't discount using them.
 
Charrlie_S said:
I have a set of main, head studs, and rod bolts on the shelf. I have never felt the need to use them, on my motors. That said, I wouldn't discount using them.
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I have the ARP rod bolts in my long rod slant build. I did that, simply because I had the rods resized and that was the perfect time, so they got good bolts.
 
circlepilot said:
Thanks for the comments...BTW Charrlie, knows what I'm building. The use and installation of studs is something I had not done on a car engine, that didn't already have them, (had lot of experience with them on aircraft engines) so...consult with the experts.
Thanks.
Norm
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If you are going to run a windage tray and happen upon a set of Chevy big block main studs at a good price that are set up for windage tray use, get em, they fit fine in a slant.
 
Whatever you use, make certain you don't screw the stud/bolt all the way down into the main bearing oil channel and block oil to the crank.
 
Badvert65 said:
Whatever you use, make certain you don't screw the stud/bolt all the way down into the main bearing oil channel and block oil to the crank.
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Damn! That would suck. Thanks for that information...when working aircraft engines, studs would usually get completely inserted and torqued, prior to use. (Which I probably would of done) I wonder if that information comes with the ARP stud kits? Regardless, thanks for letting me know.
Norm
 
circlepilot said:
Damn! That would suck. Thanks for that information...when working aircraft engines, studs would usually get completely inserted and torqued, prior to use. (Which I probably would of done) I wonder if that information comes with the ARP stud kits? Regardless, thanks for letting me know.
Norm
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IIRC, there are no instructions concerning depth, and the APR studs are tightened to hand tight, then held from turning with an allen wrench while the nut is tightened.
 
I would say if you can make an improvement now by installing head and main studs you would have a good foundation for any future power adders. I used blue loctite and hand tightened studs into cleaned bores for my old turbo motor.
I say do it!!
 
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