Maybe the saddest M-Code Cuda you will ever come across

-
oddly, the above "frankenstein" M-code is the second drag race m car i've seen in the last couple of months offered for sale. this one was on facebook marketplace out of Brandenberg, Kentucky and offered for $38,000. that probably isn't a bad price for a "ready to race" mopar. at least it still looks nice.

View attachment 1715648097

View attachment 1715648098

View attachment 1715648099
Plus side to Crazy's car is it still has an interior and what not. It's a pretty nice car in person and he's had it for years.
 
M code? Is that a Muncie 4 speed, or a 375HP 327?
 
M code? Is that a Muncie 4 speed, or a 375HP 327?
It's neither. M in this instance refers to the M in the vin that denotes the 440 'cuda for 1969. All M code '69 cuda's had console automatics, and unfortunately no 4 speeds.
129459898_171064011406186_8689783968131416218_o-jpg.jpg
 
car would be a good deal if you could get just the shell for $8-10k.

A request for Your Valuable Apinion.
Since you guys are on the mind set of M code, I actually have an old lead on a "M" code that I am seriously going to pursue. not that i need another project, but I do not want to let it get past me before I get to old to finish them.

This one is yellow, and is all disassembled down the the unibody last time I had seen it. Not sure if the original motor is there or not. It would have no rust and not sure of all the pieces are present.

What value would you all place on this car?

Thank you
Safe and Healthy Holidays to you
 
A request for Your Valuable Apinion.
Since you guys are on the mind set of M code, I actually have an old lead on a "M" code that I am seriously going to pursue. not that i need another project, but I do not want to let it get past me before I get to old to finish them.

This one is yellow, and is all disassembled down the the unibody last time I had seen it. Not sure if the original motor is there or not. It would have no rust and not sure of all the pieces are present.

What value would you all place on this car?

Thank you
Safe and Healthy Holidays to you
Is it a notchback or fastback(sports roof)? About a third more fastbacks produced than notches. Maybe that doesn't realy matter. But in the Mopar Is Gold game, the lower the number the higher the price. I would prefer a notchback anyday.
 
Is it a notchback or fastback(sports roof)? About a third more fastbacks produced than notches. Maybe that doesn't realy matter. But in the Mopar Is Gold game, the lower the number the higher the price. I would prefer a notchback anyday.
or........is it a Dart? You know pictures of interior or any and all parts, vin etc. Just guessing a value based on a few words describing a car is really just that..a guess.
 
or........is it a Dart? You know pictures of interior or any and all parts, vin etc. Just guessing a value based on a few words describing a car is really just that..a guess.
Fair enough. I just ASSumed 'cuda because that's what the OP posted about.
 
It was a several years ago that I last had seen it, I think it was the fastback Barracuda. All I request is a guesstimate. I do not have access to my books for production numbers. Also would you know besides the M in the VIN, is there any identifiable features I can use to confirm it is a M code from the parts?
 
It was a several years ago that I last had seen it, I think it was the fastback Barracuda. All I request is a guesstimate. I do not have access to my books for production numbers. Also would you know besides the M in the VIN, is there any identifiable features I can use to confirm it is a M code from the parts?
I'll pass on this, maybe someone else will comment.
 
Commenting on the Green Hardtop M 'Cuda. Don't all these restoration shops basically replace the entire car anyway? I mean after all the sheet metal is replaced and rewelded, how much of the "original" car is left anyway. I think it was AMD that "restored" the Red Daytona that Stephens Performance had sitting in their junkyard up to a few years ago. I mean there was just a very little of that car that was from the original Daytona, but it is considered a restored car. As these cars rolled down the assembly line there was no magic in the parts they pulled and assembled into the car, they were just parts. So if someone swaps a VIN tag it's fraud, but if someone changes all the parts to complete the restoration it's a 50k to 100k exercise in parts and labor. See my point here? And they aren't making M Code Mopars anymore.
 
Commenting on the Green Hardtop M 'Cuda. Don't all these restoration shops basically replace the entire car anyway? I mean after all the sheet metal is replaced and rewelded, how much of the "original" car is left anyway. I think it was AMD that "restored" the Red Daytona that Stephens Performance had sitting in their junkyard up to a few years ago. I mean there was just a very little of that car that was from the original Daytona, but it is considered a restored car. As these cars rolled down the assembly line there was no magic in the parts they pulled and assembled into the car, they were just parts. So if someone swaps a VIN tag it's fraud, but if someone changes all the parts to complete the restoration it's a 50k to 100k exercise in parts and labor. See my point here? And they aren't making M Code Mopars anymore.
B bodies can be built pretty much from the ground up. They (AMD)never made front fenders for any year 2nd gen Barracuda, so that's the big glitch, without patch paneling them. The floor pans for the 2nd gen Barracuda's are actually a little different also and the stamping is based off of the '70 Duster if you were to be really anal. The reinforcement ribs under the front passenger side on the AMD's go the opposite way of the factory design of the 2nd gen Barracuda.
 
Ok, so you get parts car fenders and floors and trunk floor and fender aprons and on and on and on. What really will be left of the original car?
 
A request for Your Valuable Apinion.
Since you guys are on the mind set of M code, I actually have an old lead on a "M" code that I am seriously going to pursue. not that i need another project, but I do not want to let it get past me before I get to old to finish them.

This one is yellow, and is all disassembled down the the unibody last time I had seen it. Not sure if the original motor is there or not. It would have no rust and not sure of all the pieces are present.

What value would you all place on this car?

Thank you
Safe and Healthy Holidays to you

here's what i can share from my past 10 years of watching and finally acquiring a M-Code Barracuda.

around 2010 when the muscle car collecting/restoring/flipping for a profit phenomena started to heat up, there were two things that appeared to happen with the 1969 M-Code Barracudas and Dodge Darts. the first was that these cars started to appear "out of the woodwork." i have pictures of at least 4 Barracudas that were in bad shape but still could be saved that showed up on Ebay and here on FABO during this time. these cars usually no longer had the motor or trans and generally had a lot of rust. you could have purchased these cars for between $5000 and $12,000 dollars. just for comparison, a very nicely restored M Barracuda fastback sold at barret-jackson for $67k in 2005. then in 2010, a nice red fastback sold at barrett-jackson for $48k. then for a few years - 2014-2017, "drivable" M-cars were showing up that needed restoration but were complete cars. these cars could be purchased for between $22,000 to $35,000 dollars. again, during this period, "trailer queens" M cudas were bringing big money (for a mopar) - for example: in 2014, a B5 blue fastback supposed to be the "first" m-code barracuda sold at barrett-jackson for $59k; 2015 barrett-jackson black fastback - $48k and a yellow fastback at mecum for $45k; 2017 barrett-jackson a "perfect" green fastback - $80k; 2018 mecum red fastback $64k; 2019 mecum red fastback "buy it" $62k but high bid only $51k; the black fastback that sold in 2015 at BJ sold for $48k sold for $60k in 2018.

just like all mopars right now in this "slowing down" market, m cars appear to be dropping in price. now, a few of these cars have been restored to a "museum quality" condition and THOSE cars are still bringing big money. however, just like L-78 375 hp 396 Chevelle's and Camaros, a "regular" m-code cuda or dart can be purchased for less than $50k. one other thing is affecting the price of the m-code cars. you can now buy a 67-69 barracuda with a 426 or 472 (or some other cubic inch) HEMI car for around $50k. lots of guys appear to have built this car combination and are now selling them. that is a pretty amazing price for what is basically a "factory racer" BO vin hemi Barracuda. AND, there are any number of 67-69 Barracudas that guys have stuffed 440's into. and of course, the A-57 Cuda 383 cars if restored are selling for between $40-$50k.

so what is the m car that you are talking about worth? well it's a "basket of parts" so it will take a LOT of work to put together. if it doesn't have a "matching numbers" engine and trans, that takes it out of the "big number" auction category. if it needs a lot of body work or rust repair, take at least $10k off of what "someone" thinks it's worth.

i paid (i believe) $16k for my m cuda ex-drag car rolling chassis then gave American Metal Direct another $11k to make it a "normal" car again. that's $27k in a car that now has a "perfect" body. however, i fully expect to invest another $10k in the motor, trans and finishing the bodywork and paint. that will put me at around $37k in a car that "should" be worth in today's market, at least $50k. but given the fact that us old guys that like these cars (and are willing to pay big money for them at car auctions) are dying off faster than choir members at your local Baptist Church, ALL "muscle cars" may become "close to worthless" in a few years - especially when President Biden (or more likely President Harris) drops the hammer on internal combustion cars especially big V8's.

if you want a m-code barracuda or dart, now is the time to buy one. pretty soon, you are not going to be able to get parts for them and no one under 45 is even going to know what your car is let alone share anything close to what you think they are worth.
 
BH23M9B388256

For $9000 someone is gonna switch the VIN plate.
If so, hopefully any potential buyer Googles the VIN # and it brings them to this thread.
 
It was a several years ago that I last had seen it, I think it was the fastback Barracuda. All I request is a guesstimate. I do not have access to my books for production numbers. Also would you know besides the M in the VIN, is there any identifiable features I can use to confirm it is a M code from the parts?

is there any other way but the VIN to identify a m-code cuda or dart? i don't think so, however, i am open to the thoughts of others. in mid-production 1969, Plymouth and Dodge offered some "factory race cars" to the public in the form of the A12 Road Runner and 440 six-pack Super Bee. these two cars have the "M" in their VIN numbers on the dash plate. the M-Code 69 Plymouth Cudas and Dodge Darts that had the 440 also had the "M" in their VIN number dash plates. the numbers on the radiator support and under the rear trunk rubber gasket on the M-Code Barracuda just match the six number sequence in the dash VIN plate. both the M Plymouth Cuda and Dodge Dart started life as 383 automatic cars and then had the 383 switched for the 440. these cars used the same torqueflite trans as other mopars and the rear diff was the 8 3/4 dana - also used in the Formula S and "Cuda" model Barracudas in 1969 and the 340 "Swinger" Darts. you could not get power steering on ANY of the "M" cars from Chrysler nor could you get air conditioning - or a bunch of other "fancy" options. so there is no way to identify a M code Cuda or Dart by what options they "don't" have. as to frame structure, i believe ( i could be wrong here) but Plymouth and Dodge did not "bulk up" the unibody frame structure on their "race cars" until the 1970 model year (the 69 1/2 A12 Road Runner and Six Pack Super Bee might have this change also). for example, if you ordered a, E body 1970 Cuda with the Hemi, you got extra heavy-duty torque boxes on the front of the rear springs attachment points. i believe the B body Road Runners, GTX, Super Bee and RT with the Hemi also got these bigger torque boxes. but as to the 69 M Cudas and Darts, if you turned one of them over and looked at the chassis, it would not have looked any different than any other such car off the assembly line.

this is the ONLY way to identify a REAL 1969 M-Code Cuda or Dart that i know of: the dash VIN plate has to have a "M" in it and then the 6 serial number sequence that is also on the dash VIN plate MUST be stamped on the upper radiator support and on the rear trunk lid lip under the weather stripping. i believe the Darts also have their serial numbers on the radiator support and rear trunk opening also - but i would ask a "Dart guy" to confirm this. now, as everyone knows, you can EASILY remove the entire dash including the VIN dash plate on a 69 Cuda/Dart and put it in any similar car. AND you could cut the serial number off the radiator support and trunk area and weld those pieces onto another car. you CANNOT tell if a dash assembly has been switched on these 69 A-body cars. however, you could carefully examine the radiator support and trunk opening area with a bright light and a mirror to see if you can find any welding or cut marks where the serial number sequence is found. if you see such indications - DO NOT buy the car!! it is an illegal vehicle and ripe for a lawsuit and/or criminal prosecution for VIN tampering.
 
I’m curious, how many of these monsters still have their driver’s exhaust manifold? I have mine and it kind of makes me nervous to drive it.
 
I’m curious, how many of these monsters still have their driver’s exhaust manifold? I have mine and it kind of makes me nervous to drive it.


LOL! the m code 69 cuda driver's side factor exhaust manifold may be the most ridiculous part "ma mopar" ever released!! trying to wrap a cast iron exhaust manifold around a steering column shaft must have made the mopar engineers just laugh and laugh. i've read that it was Hurst that came up with this "work around" for the few prototype m cudas that plymouth had them build. i do know that that part may be the most rare part there is for any mopar muscle car from any year. finding that manifold is like finding one of the original "only 69 produced" all aluminum Chevy ZL1 427 blocks from 1969. i'm planning on putting headers on the m car i'm finishing now. i do have a 69 383 4 sp barracuda with TTI headers on it. i just put a borgeson ps box on that car and a mini starter. those two items did free up some room for the headers. it would be AWFUL if your m car ever got hit on the driver's fender and that exhaust manifold got broke. i imagine it would take a year and at least $1000 dollars to find another one of those "pretzel" manifolds!
 
I didn’t pay for them but it was CONSIDERABLY more than $1000. I’ve had a set of TTIs sitting in the shed to replace them for a while but for now I’m enjoying the craziness of it all. It’s no show car but it was going to be at Western Mopar Madness last July but it was cancelled. Factory A4 silver car that was painted red in the 70s.
 
I didn’t pay for them but it was CONSIDERABLY more than $1000. I’ve had a set of TTIs sitting in the shed to replace them for a while but for now I’m enjoying the craziness of it all. It’s no show car but it was going to be at Western Mopar Madness last July but it was cancelled. Factory A4 silver car that was painted red in the 70s.
Absolutely love A4!!
 
is there any other way but the VIN to identify a m-code cuda or dart? i don't think so, however, i am open to the thoughts of others. in mid-production 1969, Plymouth and Dodge offered some "factory race cars" to the public in the form of the A12 Road Runner and 440 six-pack Super Bee. these two cars have the "M" in their VIN numbers on the dash plate. the M-Code 69 Plymouth Cudas and Dodge Darts that had the 440 also had the "M" in their VIN number dash plates. the numbers on the radiator support and under the rear trunk rubber gasket on the M-Code Barracuda just match the six number sequence in the dash VIN plate. both the M Plymouth Cuda and Dodge Dart started life as 383 automatic cars and then had the 383 switched for the 440. these cars used the same torqueflite trans as other mopars and the rear diff was the 8 3/4 dana - also used in the Formula S and "Cuda" model Barracudas in 1969 and the 340 "Swinger" Darts. you could not get power steering on ANY of the "M" cars from Chrysler nor could you get air conditioning - or a bunch of other "fancy" options. so there is no way to identify a M code Cuda or Dart by what options they "don't" have. as to frame structure, i believe ( i could be wrong here) but Plymouth and Dodge did not "bulk up" the unibody frame structure on their "race cars" until the 1970 model year (the 69 1/2 A12 Road Runner and Six Pack Super Bee might have this change also). for example, if you ordered a, E body 1970 Cuda with the Hemi, you got extra heavy-duty torque boxes on the front of the rear springs attachment points. i believe the B body Road Runners, GTX, Super Bee and RT with the Hemi also got these bigger torque boxes. but as to the 69 M Cudas and Darts, if you turned one of them over and looked at the chassis, it would not have looked any different than any other such car off the assembly line.

this is the ONLY way to identify a REAL 1969 M-Code Cuda or Dart that i know of: the dash VIN plate has to have a "M" in it and then the 6 serial number sequence that is also on the dash VIN plate MUST be stamped on the upper radiator support and on the rear trunk lid lip under the weather stripping. i believe the Darts also have their serial numbers on the radiator support and rear trunk opening also - but i would ask a "Dart guy" to confirm this. now, as everyone knows, you can EASILY remove the entire dash including the VIN dash plate on a 69 Cuda/Dart and put it in any similar car. AND you could cut the serial number off the radiator support and trunk area and weld those pieces onto another car. you CANNOT tell if a dash assembly has been switched on these 69 A-body cars. however, you could carefully examine the radiator support and trunk opening area with a bright light and a mirror to see if you can find any welding or cut marks where the serial number sequence is found. if you see such indications - DO NOT buy the car!! it is an illegal vehicle and ripe for a lawsuit and/or criminal prosecution for VIN tampering.
M code Darts and Barracudas never had their 383’s switched to 440’s. They were built with a 440 from the start. Also they were built built with torque boxes in the rear.
 
I want to thank JimHarvard for his comprehensive input. That summed up a lot of what I and others needed to consider for a current purchase.
 
Here is a real m-Code that’s more sad...was for sale whole or gonna be parted out....Not sure of it’s fate

76C9D612-17E1-4617-B8A3-0450903857F8.jpeg


10A9D6A6-E440-4D31-8B06-356101089097.jpeg


3CE54B25-B451-446B-A9C0-7EF35B486716.jpeg


20E167B0-C146-40BC-A789-AF97AA0EE0EB.jpeg


125B5A67-CC2F-46DB-9787-74201A556015.jpeg


23B3DDB1-E4AC-4594-8424-2DEB6D4700BA.jpeg


40C73EBC-A747-4148-A495-721BED72FC78.jpeg


EEA4E929-A391-489C-8A03-46902974F60C.jpeg
 
-
Back
Top