35 mph WOT power loss
and have never been able to get it to go away.
The flare is a pressure timing issue, not adjustable, the trans IMO will have to come down.
I dont have any bog when going WOT from a stop, only when cruising. If I ease into it there is no bog at all, only WOT.
You may be out of pumpshot. The accelerator pump circuit has to be tuned to the minimum amount at a stop to overcome the bog, so that there is still some left later.
Reason I think 750 is it will allow me to continue to upgrade the engine then not be back to having to small of a carb...
IMO for a streeter that is false logic.
The 600 is good to 5750 at 100% VE , (VolumetricEfficiency), at STP (Standard pressure and temperature), which a typical streeter will very likely never see, and if it does, in first gear the tires will be spinning anyway.Rpm of 5750 with 27" tires and 3.55s maths to 77mph in Second gear. You'll need a 292 or bigger cam, and good heads to be still pulling at that rpm.
Yeah I know, people say that formula does not work.
But even if it is off by 10%,ask yourself how often will you be at 77mph at WOT/second gear, that a few hp could break your combo?
My 367 has a 750DP on it because I already had it since the 70s.
Any engine, will pull whatever cfm that it is physically able to, thru any carb that is at least close in size to what it should have. If it can pull only 600cfm, then a 700/800/900 will not make any more significant power than a good-working 600.
But the penalty for a too-big a carb is; less than optimum throttle response, a reduced fuel-efficiency, sometimes hard to solve bogs, and/or hesitations..
I'm not saying to buy Rusty's 600. I am saying if you are made of money, buy whatever you want. But if like most of us, yur not, and Rusty gives you a fair price, then it's a good deal. It will be a great carb to learn on because it's the right size for maybe 90% or more of your driving needs.
But if you really want to try tuning the Eddy, there are several/possibly many, guys here, that can help you thru it.
