35 mph WOT power loss

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@408 swinger I turned that secondary air door screw out 1/2 turn. Time to do some testing and see where the car is at.

I'm almost out of gas so I'll go to the gas station on my test run right now.
 
Oh the video showed to go counter clockwise? Should I go clockwise?

Did it show counterclockwise to tight it? Did it feel like it was tightening? If it did, than that's right. Although, I don't think you'll notice anything with only a half turn.
 
Yea the video showed to go counter clockwise. I also have watched this one a couple of times to try to help with understanding parts of this carb.

I thought the videos showed 1/2 turn out at a time and then I'm pretty sure I read that on FABO as well.

 
Also I have not been able to get it to do a part throttle downshift, not as much bog after 1/2 turn out but didn't feel any downshifting.
 
Yes, turning the spring COUNTER CLOCKWISE tightens up the air door. CLOCKWISE LOOSENS THE DOOR. Just like a THERMO QUAD.
 
That's the tricky part with the carb to trans situation. With no part throttle kickdown, the engine doesn't see the demand for the secondaries. Thus the bog. The engine doesn't need them, but with the factory/loose setting, they open anyway. Now that you've tightened it up some, your situation is better.
 
Updates- the good and the bad..

The good first- i loosened and re-tightened the front band... finger tight and 1 turn out like @408 swinger has said in the past. Then I set the throttle cable and idle speed to 750-800 rpms. Then set KD to no slack. Set the idle screws to factory specs. Then set the secondary door to factory specs, when at factory I tightened it like 2 turns tight. Checked the idle vacuum, was getting about 14 mmhg vacuum reading.

Took it for some driving. Had to make the KD a touch tighter with the little adjusting nuts. 1-2 shift is around 22mph and 250p rpms, 2-3 shift is around 45mph and roughly 3k rpms. No flare and I can make it shift a touch earlier if I let off the throttle a bit for the 2-3 shift.

Right now I'm getting a slight hesitstion (no bog) when in 3rd and I go WOT, but I'm assuming its because... its kicking down into 2nd gear and the hesitation is just the time it takes to downshift :thumbsup::steering: power is good, I have traction and don't spin tires :( so that will have to be corrected at some point lol.

The bad- I'm done adjusting it. My OCD/ADHD is making me want to have it all 100% perfect, but its a 51yr old car transmission with only a 200 dollar rebuilt 2500 stall stock 11in converter. I dont think it will ever be perfect.

I found 2 brand new 727 vb's with cheetah shift kits in them, one dated 76 and one dated 86. Im going to get one and set it aside. Save up and get a ptc/edge/ultimate (?) converter with a higher stall that everyone raves about and then rebuild another 904 with those.

Final thoughts- for anyone reading this in the future looking for advice and having the same problems- good luck, enjoy your car and drive it as much as possible being happy you have one because some people would love to have one of these old cars with all their imperfections.

Thank you to everyone who always chooses to read and help me in my long *** round about threads with all my problems. I always appreciate it and one day may be able to pass along the help.

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Sounds like you've made some improvement, but you need to adjust the band per the service manual......the next time you "get in the mood". "Finger tight" ain't it.
 
Sounds like you've made some improvement, but you need to adjust the band per the service manual......the next time you "get in the mood". "Finger tight" ain't it.

Yea I know... 6ftlbs tight and then backed out 2 turns. I always had flare when I did that though. So I'd probably have to drop the pan and adjust the throttle pressure on the vb and at this time I dont want to drop the pan again until I have a new tc.
 
Yea I know... 6ftlbs tight and then backed out 2 turns. I always had flare when I did that though. So I'd probably have to drop the pan and adjust the throttle pressure on the vb and at this time I dont want to drop the pan again until I have a new tc.

That's because for performance, you don't back it off two turns. I normally only go one, maybe one and a half at the most.
 
That's because for performance, you don't back it off two turns. I normally only go one, maybe one and a half at the most.

Ok, I'll see if I can't get my car jacked up enough to get the torque wrench in to turn everything one of these days.
 
Ok, I'll see if I can't get my car jacked up enough to get the torque wrench in to turn everything one of these days.

There's no need for the torque wrench. Just use a short wrench and tighten it down good. You cannot hurt a THING tightening it. All you're doing there is getting all the slack out of the band.
 
There's no need for the torque wrench. Just use a short wrench and tighten it down good. You cannot hurt a THING tightening it. All you're doing there is getting all the slack out of the band.

But how do you know you got it to 6 ft lbs as factory specs call for without a torque wrench?
 
But how do you know you got it to 6 ft lbs as factory specs call for without a torque wrench?

Then put the torque wrench on it. I've never been able to get one to fit. Good luck!
 
Yea me neither, thats why I asked. When you do it you just tighten it very tight with a ratchet then back it off 1 turn?

No. Three times now. SHORT WRENCH. That way you cannot over tighten it. See, once you get the band TIGHT against the drum, it cannot go any farther. ........I always go 8 foot pounds out of the car. 6, 8 tight is tight. It's not critical. All that's critical is you get all the slack out of the band. If you want to, practice on a fastener out of the car first with the torque wrench and then without. It's REAL easy to feel what under 10 foot pounds is. Best way I can describe it is "pretty dang tight" with a SHORT wrench. It's just not as difficult nor as critical as you're makin it out to be.
 
No. Three times now. SHORT WRENCH. That way you cannot over tighten it. See, once you get the band TIGHT against the drum, it cannot go any farther. ........I always go 8 foot pounds out of the car. 6, 8 tight is tight. It's not critical. All that's critical is you get all the slack out of the band. If you want to, practice on a fastener out of the car first with the torque wrench and then without. It's REAL easy to feel what under 10 foot pounds is. Best way I can describe it is "pretty dang tight" with a SHORT wrench. It's just not as difficult nor as critical as you're makin it out to be.

Took your advice. Took a short 5/16 wrench, tightened the nut "pretty dang tight" and backed it out, then reset the kd. Ill take it for a drive in a bit. It seems to be about 1/2 -3/4 turns tighter than it was previously...
 
Best way I can describe it is "pretty dang tight"

There could be an entire thread started regarding backyard torque references.

just snug
good and snug
pretty snug
just tight
pretty tight
pretty dang tight
pretty damn tight
really tight
good nuff for government work
prolly not gon' go anywhere
she ain't goin' nowhere

What did I miss? lol
 
There could be an entire thread started regarding backyard torque references.

just snug
good and snug
pretty snug
just tight
pretty tight
pretty dang tight
pretty damn tight
really tight
good nuff for government work
prolly not gon' go anywhere
she ain't goin' nowhere

What did I miss? lol
What are those in ugga duggas?
 
Yes there is. It doesn't sound like an engine noise, it almost sounds like converter bolts hitting the shield. When did it start this noise?

Converter shield isn't on... it just started. After doing the band tighter with the box wrench and then backing it out as directed.

Started it in park and the noise started after idling for a couple of seconds.
 
Converter shield isn't on... it just started. After doing the band tighter with the box wrench and then backing it out as directed.

Started it in park and the noise started after idling for a couple of seconds.
It sounds like something scraping. That's pretty odd especially since you just did a band adjustment. It's hard to pinpoint where the noise is with the video. Nothing could have got in the bellhousing to start the noise?
 
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