Carb issue?

PCVs are not gonna solve this man's problems; OP is at 6900 ft elevation, and his engine is starving for air.
He has already stated that the butterflies have to be opened up PAST the top of the transfers, at 26* advance just to keep it from stalling. Just ONE PCV will never meet that demand for air. Even two will not do it. And even if they did, how are you gonna compensate the AFR for that dry air as the throttle continues to open?
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To Christopher;
IMO, holes in the blades are the BEST option, because as the throttles are opened, they do less and less until by the time the blades stand vertical the holes are doing nothing.
>In your case, because your engine wants so much air, and because of your elevation, I have no idea how much bypass air she will need.
But, it easier to control the cross sectional area with smaller multiple holes than with just one large hole in each blade. So then; I would recommend to drill TWO small holes in each blade, straddling the transfer slot. IMO, you may need more cross-section area, than the equivalent of 4 holes each of 1/16".... I'm guessing.
To start, drill just one hole in each blade, and see how it goes. Again, set your transfer slot exposure FIRST, put your mixture screws to 2.0 turns, and your Idle timing to 16*. If the first two holes are not enough to bring the idle up to 800/850, then drill two more, on the other sides of the Tslots; ONLY two per blade, and try again.
Do not put the holes too close together or too close to the edge of the blades. Chamfer both sides when you are done.
Once you are close, you can try-increasing timing to speed it up, or decrease the timing to slow it down, AND twiddling the mixture screws for fine tuning. If you cannot get into the ballpark, put the timing back to 16*; then increase the hole sizes. On the first cycle, enlarge just one in each blade, to the next larger size by 64ths, so 5/64 inch. If you need still more, then enlarge the other two. Each time the holes get bigger, the cross-section increases exponentially, so it is easy to overdo it, so be careful!
When you get really close, you can vary the fuel delivery; by returning the mixture screws to 2.0, and then, varying the transfer slot fuel, to prevent a tip-in sag.

Caution;
I inadvertently made my holes too big as I was learning this.
To get past this, I chamferred the holes both sides and soldered them closed,then dressed the lumps down; then moved over and started fresh. I chose solder because solder is soft, malleable, and melts at low temperature. My thinking was that if it ever did fall out, it wouldn't hurt my 11/1 engine. It was a bit tricky to get the solder to stick but I got her.
That was year 2000, and the solder is still in there, over 100,000 miles later..

EDIT; added from post #76
BTW
If you are attempting to tune to a vacuum number, with the 7177 cam, you are in a world of hurt. Because it will lead to a massive amount of idle-timing.

I rarely use a vacuum gauge to even observe the idle-vacuum, of an engine with a performance cam.
At 930ft elevation, my 367cuber will idle down to 550 in gear (10.97 starter gear) and pulling itself with no clutch slipping, at 5*advance, with an ancient 750DP, @10.95Scr and a Hughes HE3037AL cam, that is advertised at 276/286/110 and .050s @ 230/236. I have absolutely no clue what the vacuum is and don't care, because the T-slot setting allows lots of tip-in without a sag/hesitation. No, 5* timing is not my normal Idle-timing, which is just what I use for cruising the parking lots at 3.9 mph. My standard Idle-timing is ~14* at 207*F running temperature.
This same 750DP has been on all three iterations; 292/292/108, 270/276/110, and the current 276/286/110.
Only the 270 cam did not require bypass air; Having come from the 292 cam, I did have to solder the holes closed. Going to the 276 cam, I had to provide the bypass again.
Just saying.