New clutch installed and bad wheel hop?

So I brought the dart to a reputable restoration shop near me in CT to have some work done on my 67 Dart. I was trying to do most of not all the work on the car by myself and was learning quite a bit and accomplishing a lot. The problem is that I’m in the process of building a 3 car garage with a larger bay area for a future car lift. It’s quite cold here in CT and I am sick and tired of trying to work on my cars on a dirt driveway out in the elements. I thought I have a little extra money I’ll bring the dart to this place have some work done and store it for a few months until spring. Then I can move the cars to the new garage. So I decided to have the Dart clutch replaced with a centerforce diagram clutch, aluminum flywheel and new throw out bearing and the overcenter spring was removed. The car has a 383 in it with 4 speed. I decided to replace old clutch because the car would wheel hop terrible if I tried to do anything but just feather out the clutch to get started moving. I thought that it could be due to a glazed over clutch that was toast. Well now the problem is back again after this supposed reputable shop did the work. For reference my other car a 67 383 4 speed Barracuda doesn’t due this at all and it has a basic factory clutch and flywheel set up? I didn’t think that mopars are supposed to have traction or wheel hop problems. Also I should mention that I had the shop replace the front and rear bushings on the factory type 6 leave springs so I don’t think it’s a suspension issue? The clutch feels good and grabs right at the top on the adjustment. I just can’t stand the fact that I have to ride it a little or feather it to not wheel hop terrible on take off? I’m at a loss any help appreciated. I’m not convinced that this shop really knows what they are doing. That is because of another post i put up explaining the difficulties after they worked on the top end of my engine. That story is better explained in another post.


Are you saying that the clutch pedal is almost all the way to the top before the clutch engages? That’s wrong. As is typical when not using a Borg & Beck cover on cars designed for them, the clutch linkage ratios are wrong.

This is because the lever (finger) ratios are not the same on the diaphragm cover as they are on the B&B covers. And the Long covers (Ford) don’t have the same lever ratio as the others.

The clutch is acting like a toggle switch. You are literally “dropping” the hammer every time you let the clutch out, and like Locomotion pointed out, it’s bending the front segment of the spring.

The aluminum flywheel should drive like any other flywheel if the clutch linkage is fixed.

The clutch should engage in as much pedal travel as you can and still get free play and not have it release off the floor. The longer the pedal travel, the smoother the clutch engagement is.

And you still need to replace the springs.