I've had megasquirt 3 pro on my Duster for 5 years now also. I went all the way with a crank sensor, coil near plug, sequential multi port, etc, and integrated it myself.
I previously had a quick fuel annular 750 double pumper, and to be honest you can just drive the car now and there's no waiting for warm-up, and no weirdness based on weather. That always ran fine when the engine was actually warm. My engine will also pull from a lower RPM now. No worrying about the gas messing with the inside of the carb either.
I have not had ANY trouble at all. I would say the only annoying thing about it is that the fuel pump doesn't have a check valve so it will loose prime overnight. So, the key has to be cycled at least twice to not get a start-stall. I should just run a momentary switch so I can just run the pump for 20 seconds or so then all would be good.
If you want to win at an EFI conversion and have it be reliable, no matter what, you need an IN-TANK fuel pump with a return system where the regulator is AFTER the fuel rails. Your fuel will not boil off, you won't have fuel pressure issues, and your pump will actually last given that it's cooled by the gas AND can actually pick up fuel. It's also a lot quieter.
I have the Aeromotive Phantom 340 LPH which is great other than the bleed down of the fuel pressure due to no pump check valve.
