New clutch installed and bad wheel hop?
The clutch grabs about an inch from the top but can be adjusted to engage farther down not an issue. I think the first thing I should do is get the pinion angle correct. I don’t know if it is in between 5-7%. Then yes the front spring eye perch’s as well as the back of the springs are replaced with new bushings. The rear leave springs are the factory style that came in those BB 4 speed cars. I believe they are 6 leaves on each side. They may be even a little stiffer than original. The springs are about 15 years old but the car has only been driven about 10,000 miles so I wouldn’t think the springs are shot. I have new 3 way adjustable hotchkis fox shocks all the way around and they are new. I think those shocks should be adjustable to work for this car? Anyone else have any feedback on these shocks? There is a factory pinion snubber on the car but I also have the tall adjustable pinion snubber but don’t want to put that on for street driving as it clunks and bangs often. Based on this combination I think it should squat and go, not hop around like crazy. How do I determine if the rear leave springs are the problem?
I don't think it should ''Squat and go''.
It should lift the back end and go.
If it's lifting the back end, the axle is moving down toward the road surface and planting the tires.
This is with a Mopar leaf spring car of course.
When you launch, the front end and the rear of the car should rise together if it's set up right.
The tires unloading and loading is what contributes greatly to wheel hop.
And the more power you have, the worse the wheel hop will be.
The basic idea is that the axle center line should be not in the center of the spring but biased forward, and the front segment between the body mount to the axle needs to be stiff, and the rear segment needs to be weaker and longer to allow the lift.
You also must take into consideration that the shock travel needs to be enough to allow the springs to move the maximum amount to achieve this.
If not, it will cause the wheel hop problem as well.
The Shock tops out and unloads the suspension, then relaxes enough to let the back end drop, then the car gets traction again causing the rear to rise and the constant loading and unloading of the suspension is what causes the wheel hop.
Some people have used the shocks from an Imperial or pickup to allow for the longer stroke that they need, and also the rubber brake hose between the body and the differential needs to be changed out for one from a pickup.
It's all about unrestricted range of motion, and the brake hose trick is so the brake hose doesn't rip off and make the brakes fail when the car launches.
Remember, this is the old technology taken from the Direct Connection book that was designed for cars with Super Stock springs and an adjustable pinion snubber.
Newer set ups like Cal Tracks and slide a links are a different ball game all together........
