Blank canvas, steel sided 40x60 pole barn. Thoughts on insulating, electrical, heating???

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halifaxhops said:
Hey John, noticed the sheet metal is not on it yet. I kick myself in the *** not putting translucent panes up just under the eves, you get a ton of light in the day that way.
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Missed that opportunity! They work too fast!

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Our snowmobile club put white corrugated steel panels up in a 50x80 shed. Not sure what it cost, but the white reflects the light making it brighter and can power wash it if you get in a cleaning mood
 
Outdoor wood boiler,with water coil air handler if you don't put the coil in the floor
 
My buiding is a 32x30 pole barn with insulated OSB walls. I installed ( I am a Industrial Electrician) a 100 amp feeder to the building with a 32 space panel. Run 3/4" EMT on the surface for your electric and pull THHN. Offers the best option for futtre expansion and layout changes. Just my 2Cents.

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Nice size! batt insulation osb and metal siding inside. Surface wiring and air.
A pellet stove would need to be a good size to heat it. Electric furnace or oil furnace. in floor heat is nice, if building is well insulated and sealed. Buddy’s shop is large and built with some really bad ideas,$1000 a month to keep it from freezing. I heat my 24x32 for the winter on less than 1000. I burn $450 in pellets For the winter.
Depending on insurance, and purpose of shop, a wood/electric furnace would be in my sights.
Electric to maintain minimum temp, wood when the party is on!
 
Johnny Mac said:
Hey all, long story short, I have been planning a 40x60x14 pole building for some time now.
My builder called me with a surprise opening, and its nearly done.

I am a busy guy, and haven't put much thought into "finishing" it with electrical, insulation, and heat.

Opinions on the following?
Insulation
Spray foam?
Roll bat?
Foam board?

Wall finish
Osb?
Obx?
Plywood ?
Rather not drywall

Electrical
External conduit if I do osb walls?

Heating
There is no gas here
Electrical 220 heaters?
Radiant floor heat? I hear recovery is poor and expensive to install...

Obviously not looking to break the bank...so spray in foam may be out...same with floor heating. Just looking to do this logically and not do things twice...or backwards.

Thanks for the opinions all.
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Talk to your builder about those options and see what he says. The guys who built my shop went ahead and installed the insulation and then they covered it with inner metal panels. Once the building was sealed up and insulated the electricians came in and ran conduit around the walls and hung outlets every 10 feet as well as installed all the lights.

I had PEX hose installed in the floor before the concrete was poured and then had a it hooked to a water heater. If you don't have gas you can use propane to fire the water heater. Can you trench over from the house for a water line?
 
All I can input into this discussion is to definitely go with surface conduit. It is the best way and easiest for long term expandability and flexibility.

Cley
 
Another advantage of spray foam is mice don’t make nests in it. We had the shop at work spray foamed about 5 years ago and the mouse issue we use to have went away. The fact that it also eliminated any drafts in the building was a major plus. We did 4 inches On the walls and 6 in the ceilings.
 
67Dart273 said:
It's already too late. You should have sunk a pair of in floor heating coils in the thing.......liquid heating, a coil to use and a coil for spare, or use both and block off one if it ever failed
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Floor is not poured. Still dirt. I'm not sure what you mean though, the pex water lines? Or something else?
 
halifaxhops said:
Hey John, noticed the sheet metal is not on it yet. I kick myself in the *** not putting translucent panes up just under the eves, you get a ton of light in the day that way.
Click to expand...

Wish I would have thought of that!!!!! These guys work too fast!

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toplscuda said:
Another advantage of spray foam is mice don’t make nests in it. We had the shop at work spray foamed about 5 years ago and the mouse issue we use to have went away. The fact that it also eliminated any drafts in the building was a major plus. We did 4 inches On the walls and 6 in the ceilings.
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That I didn't think of!!!! Mice out here in the woods are a bugger.
 
AndyF said:
Talk to your builder about those options and see what he says. The guys who built my shop went ahead and installed the insulation and then they covered it with inner metal panels. Once the building was sealed up and insulated the electricians came in and ran conduit around the walls and hung outlets every 10 feet as well as installed all the lights.

I had PEX hose installed in the floor before the concrete was poured and then had a it hooked to a water heater. If you don't have gas you can use propane to fire the water heater. Can you trench over from the house for a water line?
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Yes, I was thinking about that the other day. Why didn't I plumb a water line out of the house when I built it...and just leave is capped somewhere in the yard!

My builders are amish....not really the authority on insulation or electric :p
 
Sub contract the insulation, if you can.
Get an estimate, before the Amish finish up.
 
Johnny Mac said:
Yes, I was thinking about that the other day. Why didn't I plumb a water line out of the house when I built it...and just leave is capped somewhere in the yard!

My builders are amish....not really the authority on insulation or electric :p
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You might want to run a chunk of "clear core" into the shop, below the frost line, before you pour the slab. You could always come off of your pump house if that's what you have.
 
Johnny Mac said:
If you don't mind me asking...how expensive was that floor heat. And did you install yourself? Any tips or links to what kind of unit or materials? Thank you!!
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I installed everything myself for the floor heat. I divided the 30x60 heated area into 5 loops w 15" spacing. The pex tubing is 1/2" into manifolds and cost was $540. The heater unit and pump invertor panel was $2400. These prices were from 2008-2010 and purchased at Menards. The heater is electric off-peak demand control. The gas heater was higher hardware cost but would be more cost efficient to run if natural gas available. I insulated edge of concrete but should have insulated at least 4 ft. in from edge.
 
Dont forget your floor drain!
One part needs a slight slope and a place for water to run to.
Trenching water in and should consider provisions for a washroom. At least holes in cement for future consideration.
 
3406pk said:
I installed everything myself for the floor heat. I divided the 30x60 heated area into 5 loops w 15" spacing. The pex tubing is 1/2" into manifolds and cost was $540. The heater unit and pump invertor panel was $2400. These prices were from 2008-2010 and purchased at Menards. The heater is electric off-peak demand control. The gas heater was higher hardware cost but would be more cost efficient to run if natural gas available. I insulated edge of concrete but should have insulated at least 4 ft. in from edge.
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thanks so much! seems like the pex part isn't too bad. we don't have any gas out here so would have to look into an electric heater. I'd assume that isn't as "easy" as residential grade hot water heater. I'll keep researching. thank you.
 
Johnny Mac said:
Floor is not poured. Still dirt. I'm not sure what you mean though, the pex water lines? Or something else?
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I believe there is special tubing. I'm not up on the latest. If at all you can, in floor heat is a VERY desirable system. Some guys have simply used a hot water tank "as a boiler." There are many options including heat pumps and wood fired
 
If you look into it there are more efficient electric water heat sources than a water heater. I have not looked for a long time but the electric water heater we used at my father in laws 40x60 shop was a very expensive way of heating the building. It does work well though.

Cley
 
Johnny Mac said:
thanks so much! seems like the pex part isn't too bad. we don't have any gas out here so would have to look into an electric heater. I'd assume that isn't as "easy" as residential grade hot water heater. I'll keep researching. thank you.
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I used a 15 gallon hot water tank, heated garage at my other place nicely. One element. Water in tank was heated, when thermostat called for heat, pump came on. Water was set at 150 degrees. It was nice, quiet and fairly efficient. But for some reason the powers that be do not want us using hot water tanks.
It was an open system, running propylene glycol. Worked flawlessly for the 6 years i lived there. I should have done in floor when i poured the new slab here, but i was rushed to get it done.if i add on i think i will do in floor for that part, and use the un approved hot water tank.
 
Tooljunkie said:
I used a 15 gallon hot water tank, heated garage at my other place nicely. One element. Water in tank was heated, when thermostat called for heat, pump came on. Water was set at 150 degrees. It was nice, quiet and fairly efficient. But for some reason the powers that be do not want us using hot water tanks.
It was an open system, running propylene glycol. Worked flawlessly for the 6 years i lived there. I should have done in floor when i poured the new slab here, but i was rushed to get it done.if i add on i think i will do in floor for that part, and use the un approved hot water tank.
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Hmm. First I heard of prohibitions on using a water heater for floor heat. I bought a Bradford-White 48 gallon propane fired water heater that has factory installed side taps for floor heating service. My system is set up pretty much like yours except I only have it set for 120 degrees.
 
6PakBee said:
Hmm. First I heard of prohibitions on using a water heater for floor heat. I bought a Bradford-White 48 gallon propane fired water heater that has factory installed side taps for floor heating service. My system is set up pretty much like yours except I only have it set for 120 degrees.
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Here in canada its against building code. At least it was. That was 15 plus years ago.
 
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