Another "Is Fuel Injection a Worthwhile Upgrade?" Question
I previously had a 360 with magnum heads and a 600 VS holley and it had quite literally the same exact issues. My friend's demon has that same carb on his 71 Demon with an auto and it masks it a lot. It's still not what I'd consider good.
I have some serious doubts about you being able to crank your car at 40F and 80% humidity and then just put it in gear within 10 seconds and have it run perfect, no stumbles, no revving, no nothing. Otherwise it's got to be very stock.
As to stock?
I have an 11/1, 430hp 367 (by it's trapspeed) with a 750DP that has never had a choke. I only run it from May long weekend to October 10th at the latest.
I only know carbs.
My combo includes a 4-speed (3.09low), with 3.55gears, and the entire top-end is aluminum, with an RPM AIR-GAP, with NO carb heat. And even worse is that the carb gets it's air thru a big ol' hole in the hood. I would have thought Icing would be a problem for me, but I'm with YR, in as much as, I have never since 1999 experienced icing. Additionally she runs ~180psi of cranking cylinder pressure.
I start it up, give it a couple of blips to charge the brake booster,and put her into reverse, back out of the carport and head out.
But I have two secret weapons;
1) I run a fast-burn fuel,lol, namely; 87E10 , and
2) I run a dash-mounted, dial-back, timing retard box with which I can add timing (up to 15*), any time I want...... so I can give the engine, the cold-timing it craves,
just like an EFI system.
At about 1500 rpm, the V-can kicks in with 22* more timing, so you know, the cold-timing could be 40* to 50*, by 1500/10 mph, to 1800/13mph. Furthermore, those are in Neutral numbers. If I take off right, I can pull in all of that timing, just as soon as the car begins moving. Stumbles? Tip-in sags?
fogedabowdit
Now, if I could just remember to dial it out at WOT......
lol.
OK, so, I am not a carb guru. I just try stuff until it gets bad, then back up one or two steps.
For COLD running,
I am depending on whatever fuel gets into the 75cc, small area, aluminum chambers, to be sufficiently agitated by the tight Squish, to be fully mixed and eager to be set alight, lit up, and then continuing to rise in pressure, as the piston goes over the top, and finally, maximum pressure delivered to the crank at just the right time. In this way, my COLD-idle fuel-tune could be pretty lousy and the results could still be pretty daymn good.
But no, I can't drive away quite like I do with my EFI'd DD, but I also don't need to, after all it is an HO 367, with more torque at 2000 rpm than most any NA 4-banger will make at any rpm. But I don't treat my 4- bangerDD like that either.
And I agree with you that the tune for a car with a TC can be pretty lazy below stall, and that laziness is "well-masked".
I have not tuned any EFI systems, so I cannot speak to those. Nor do I want to; carbs are fairly easy for me.
I'm not trying to start a fight, Nor do I wish to negate anything you (golduster) or anyone else has said.
I'm just gonna stick with what I know.
Oh also;
if China, or whoever, EMP bomb's us,
all those EFI cars may be dead in the water, whereas, for as long as I can find gas, my carby'd car will continue to run, with just a swap, to a points Distributor.
