New clutch installed and bad wheel hop?

LovetheA's said
so I wouldn’t think the springs are shot. I have new 3 way adjustable hotchkis fox shocks all the way around and they are new. I think those shocks should be adjustable to work for this car? Anyone else have any feedback on these shocks? There is a factory pinion snubber on the car but I also have the tall adjustable pinion snubber but don’t want to put that on for street driving as it clunks and bangs often. Based on this combination I think it should squat and go, not hop around like crazy. How do I determine if the rear leave springs are the problem?

I wouldn’t think the springs are shot.
How do I determine if the rear leave springs are the problem?
Stop thinking about it; the springs are telling you that they cannot resist the torque. The front segment is waffling.
I think it should squat and go,
And that also is Chevy thinking. Squatting is bad and leads to spinning the tires. What you want is for the rear of the car to rise a little. For this to happen simultaneous with power application the springs have to push up. Which is the same as you pushing down on the trunk. With 300pounds per inch springs, for each side to rise 1 inch, that is similar to pushing down with 700 pounds of force. That is a lot of traction aid, that you don't have to carry around cement bags to get.
Squat is bad. traction is reduced. Tires spin. Spinning ain't winning.
Additionally; the pinion has to be down, and the snubber in the saddle; that is what is gonna lift the back of the car. That is the second reason why it it needs to be 5 to 7 degrees nose down. The goal is for under power, for the angle to be near zero. So the more power you have or the softer the springs are, the more nose-down you will need.

On the street you need a heavy flywheel for a couple of reasons
1) it smooths the power application
2) it is easier to modulate engagement
3) it makes it way easier to take off with. Just blip the throttle to put some energy into the flywheel and (in mine) sorta dump the clutch and go.
4) it stores more energy on the shifts to bust the tires loose again, if yur into that sortof thing...... like I would be if I didn't already have enough power as it is,lol.
5) it smooths and stabilizes the Idle, so you can idle the engine down and hear the cam. My 11/1, 367 will idle AND pull itself at 500/550 rpm with a 10.97 starter gear; (with a 230* cam and a manual trans).
I always wanted to try a lightweight FW, but after I put this combo together, I said un-uh.

I am not advocating for SS springs on the street.
What I did was add a fat second main leaf, eye to eye, on each side and clamped the front section pretty tight (two clamps per side IIRC). I clamped the back loosely with one clamp per side only.
This allowed me to ditch the factory snubber completely, cuz my floor was too low for it anyway.
Read YRs post #14, again