Building my triangulated 4 link
The factory shock mounts are no where near where the coil-overs should be on a triangulated 4-link. You can see on the RMS the coil-over mount is well ahead of the axle.
Or this one by member rapom65
The generic kit may be somewhat helpful, but you might be better off just buying ends and tubing. Welding will be required no matter what, so, rather than buy a kit with parts that will need to be modified it may be better just to build your own. Especially since the kit you're buying is just a couple of tubes that are probably the wrong length with rod ends, and it appears only one side is adjustable so you'd have to remove one end to adjust them. And a few brackets. But again, to me it looks like you'll get a few things you can use, a few things you'll need to modify, and a few things you'll have no use for at all.
@rapom65 built a triangulated 4-link for his Duster. His install is here Rapom's Rocket - just another Duster build thread
He used a parts kit I don't think is available anymore, but here's the list...
Not saying that's the only way to do it, and maybe rapom65 will chime in on anything he'd do different. RMS also has the install instructions for their triangulated 4 link on their website, you can get an idea of what it would take to build something similar to what they have. I just don't see that generic kit being all the helpful, it just locks you into some cheap hardware.
The factory shock mounts are no where near where the coil-overs should be on a triangulated 4-link. You can see on the RMS the coil-over mount is well ahead of the axle.
Or this one by member rapom65
The generic kit may be somewhat helpful, but you might be better off just buying ends and tubing. Welding will be required no matter what, so, rather than buy a kit with parts that will need to be modified it may be better just to build your own. Especially since the kit you're buying is just a couple of tubes that are probably the wrong length with rod ends, and it appears only one side is adjustable so you'd have to remove one end to adjust them. And a few brackets. But again, to me it looks like you'll get a few things you can use, a few things you'll need to modify, and a few things you'll have no use for at all.
@rapom65 built a triangulated 4-link for his Duster. His install is here Rapom's Rocket - just another Duster build thread
He used a parts kit I don't think is available anymore, but here's the list...
- 4 x 1-1/8" Rod Ends LH thread w/ jam nuts
- 4 x 1-1/8" Rod Ends RH thread w/ jam nuts
- 4 pairs x 3" Wide Poly Bushings
- 2 x Lower Bars - 21" (Center to Center of Bushing Holes)
- 2 x Upper Bars - 9.5" (Center to Center of Bushing Holes)
- 8 x 9/16" x 4 1/2" Bolts
- 16 x 9/16 Flat Washers
- 8 x 9/16 Lock Nuts
- 8 x 9/16 Regular Nuts for ease of mock up
- 4 x Lower Link Tabs cut for 3" axle tube
- 4 x Upper Link Tabs need to be cut for 3.5" axle tube to turn on the angle
- 4 x Upper Link Tabs @ shock cross bar (will have to be trimmed to fit on angle)
- 4 x Upper Shock Tabs with 1/2" hole (this depends on upper bolt of rear coil over shock)
- 36" x 1.75" x 3/16" wall minimum for shock/link cross bar
- 16" x 36" x 1/8th" plate steel for Link Boxes & plates for shock cross bar to frame (Ron used 3/16" sheared 4xsides, 2xtops, 2xfronts, 2xbar plates)
- 2x RideTech 90000159 Tri Link Bracket (trim off shock tabs on back side) RideTech 90000159 RideTech Replacement Tri-Link Mounting Brackets | Summit Racing
- 1x RideTech 90001928 Billet Shock Mounts (2 in the package) RideTech 90001928 RideTech Billet Shockwave Lower Shock Mounts | Summit Racing
- 8 x zerk fittings, drill and tap rod ends (NAPA)
Not saying that's the only way to do it, and maybe rapom65 will chime in on anything he'd do different. RMS also has the install instructions for their triangulated 4 link on their website, you can get an idea of what it would take to build something similar to what they have. I just don't see that generic kit being all the helpful, it just locks you into some cheap hardware.
