Stop in for a cup of coffee

Are you gonna plastic gauge the bearings????

It's better to verify that the bearings have proper clearance now than after you install the engine and have oil pressure issues....

Follow my assembly procedure in my how to install piston thread, plastic gauge one piston, clean and oil the crank journal and rod bearing, then torque to spec.... Then do the piston opposite to that cylinder... Tighten them as you go, don't leave them loose - what if you forget to torque them???

Install one piston at a time, plastic gauge it, then clean the plastic gauge off, push the piston down about 1" and drizzle STP or Motor Honey on the bearings and journal, then put the cap back on and torque to spec... That way each piston is tightened as you go and less opportunity to leave one loose...

Only torque the pistons as little as possible, every time you tighten them it stretches the bolt a little... After 5 clamp cycles the rod bolts may stretch too much and get weaker, so no more than 5 tightenings on each bolt....

Then after all the pistons are done, go back and check the torque on all of the rods and crank bolts and mark them with a paint pen or something to indicate that they were double checked... Checking the torque will not stretch the bolt or count as another clamp cycle... It only counts when you loosen the nuts and then retorque them....

I used a dial bore gauge and a micrometer, I got .0018 difference on the mains, that’s with the bearings in and caps torqued to the spec called for by ARP.

the only thing I did different than your link you posted earlier was the dial bore gauge and the use of heat shrink tubing over the rod bolts when sliding them down. I don’t have the rings in yet. Gonna do that later.