I used Lubriplate 105 assembly lube. White lithium with zinc. You check all clearances dry with either plastigauge or a dial bore gauge or snap gauges for the tod and main bearings and micrometers for the crank throws. Snap gauges and dial calipers are the least accurate. Double check your math if you do. snug all the rod bolts down and pry the crank back and forth to square the thrust bearing. Don't forget to measure the thrust clearance with a feeler gauge. You should check ring end gap. Probably won't have to file them but you never know. A ring filer works best. Be careful installing the rings onto the pistons you can brake them easily if you stretch them too far. Make sure you stagger all the end gaps around the bore. Piston notches go towards the front and all printing should face up towards the intake surface. The rods are notched so the bearings go in one way but the squirt holed should face up towards the cam. Wait, you guys already went over this stuff. With oil, STP, or assembly lube on the crank it should spin smoothly. I start at the front and install pistons on each crank throw rotating the crank and new rods at least a full turn each time. It should turn smoothly but get a little harder to turn with each pair of pistons you install. I probably forgot something but may be mentioned something someone else forgot. Don't forget the rear main seal. I use a little silicone on the block side and a small dab on the ends as well. Just a dab.