AFR slowly richens at idle

For a point of reference;
Back in year 2000, I ran the 292/292/108 cam in my 11.3Scr 367 which is [email protected]; with a 4-speed and 3.55s
With 1.6 arms the lift maths to .542 , and the Timing was;
14* Idle-Timing,
32/34* PowerTiming at 3200rpm (alloy heads)
22* in the Vcan, making CruiseTiming of 48* at 2600rpm
A ran an old 750DP, with quite a bit of bypass air, to get the blades down on the transfer slots. I have no idea what the AFR was, Nor what the vacuum was.
She idled at 700; or less (with less Idle-Timing) if/when I wanted it to.

I have not tuned a cam as big as yours, so IDK how much of what follows will be helpful, but here goes anyway.

At idle, your engine likes a lot of timing. It will like an awful lot of timing. That doesn't mean you should give it to her.
By 2200rpm, you cannot give it enough timing,with the factory D, to cruise with, and still be able to start it, without kickback on the starter.
If you run a lot of idle timing, your idle-rpm will rise up.
In response to that you will idle it down with the speed screw, closing the transfer slot exposure underneath the blades, probably too far. I mean IDK, because the biggest cams I usually tune are the 292 or smaller. So now it has gone lean.
In response to that, you might max out the mixture screws.
This is a bad tune.
Yeah it idles just fine.
But when you put it into gear, there is not enough fuel coming out of the transfers, and/or, the fuel is slow to get moving, and/or, the sudden application of load, slows the air down even more.
So it stalls.
And the exhaust burns your eyes and nose.
So instead, you crank up the idlespeed until it no longer stalls. But now your mixture screws are not doing much of anything, so your engine is at the mercy of whatever is spewing from the transfers. And now it usually bangs hard going into gear.And the exhaust still burns your eyes and nose.
This is a bad tune.

The right tune, is to put the mixture screws in the center of their adjustment range, and set the idle Afr with the speed screw, while simultaneously taking timing out of it, to where the combination of Mixture-screw fuel, plus transfer slot fuel, combined with a retarded timing; lets the engine idle at a reasonable speed that does not bang into gear nor stall.
To achieve this, the engine will want some bypass air.
That 292 cam in my 367 wanted more air than could be supplied by, two of 3/32 holes, one in each primary throttle blade, to make it happen; (no 4-corner idle)
My guess is that your engine will want more TOTAL bypass air.
When you get this right, the engine will no longer stall/ bang going into gear, and it will tic over nicely in gear, and it will not stink up your garage, and bonus is, it will have some tip-in power.

If your 1050 has a 4-corner idle (IDK, I have never see one up close) then I suppose you have already tried everything. But the important take-away here is that;
All your Idle-fuel sources (ports and slots) entering the engine, need to be balanced with
All the air that is entering the engine, and
They all have to get mixed together BEFORE entering the chambers.
And let the IdleTiming be what it will be.
At WOT, the first time your engine cares about timing is at stall-rpm. And the second time it cares is at somewhere around 3400rpm. If you can hit both points, hooray!
But at your power level, in a streeter, I wouldn't be overly concerned with finding ALL the power, cuz more than likely the chassis can't handle it all anyway.
At Part Throttle, and from off-idle to ~3400rpm, The Vcan should be supplying the difference.
I'm just trying to be helpful...

Now; lets talk about your 3300TC
For a streeter this is about the right stall.

Your engine, with a starter gear of 4.10 x2.45=10.04 should pickup nicely.
But when you are blasting thru the gears, that TC is only working for you, just one time, as it gets the car moving. By 3300/.59=5600 on the tach, your engine will never fall below stall again. (.59 being 1.45/2.45, your 1-2 shift split).
On the other hand, a 3800 will hit the same split at 3800/.59=6440. So if you short shift at say 5600 the theoretical drop-in rpm is to 3300, but the 3800 cannot fall that far. This is good, but it happens at 25mph at WOT, with 4.10s, and 27s; and your tires should already be on fire,lol.
If your tires are not on fire at WOT, at Warsaws elevation of 330ft; something is wrong.