Bolt on Disk brake conversion for 66 Valiant

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SS Lancer

SS Lancer

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Which companies offer complete kit for drum to disk conversion for my 66 Valiant ?
Thank you
 
I just used a Scarebird kit on a 64 barracuda
Really easy using stock upper control arms and lower ball joints
Very easy
 
I had to source a M/C and make a couple of lines
Otherwise it was complete.
I went to BBP, they also make a SBP kit
 
These are my Scarebird brakes. 65 Barracuda. I didn't use my stock upper control arm, went with a tubular control arm, but the stock one would of worked with no problem. Stock knuckle, small bolt pattern wheel.
Norm

cuda suspension 7.jpg
 
circlepilot said:
These are my Scarebird brakes. 65 Barracuda. I didn't use my stock upper control arm, went with a tubular control arm, but the stock one would of worked with no problem. Stock knuckle, small bolt pattern wheel.
Norm

View attachment 1715666587
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circlepilot said:
These are my Scarebird brakes. 65 Barracuda. I didn't use my stock upper control arm, went with a tubular control arm, but the stock one would of worked with no problem. Stock knuckle, small bolt pattern wheel.
Norm

View attachment 1715666587
Click to expand...
Nice , if rules in club allow those upper control arms I will get those also thank you .
 
I used a scarebird kit on my A100 a while back. Cheap and easy.
If I remember correctly they supply the brackets and a parts list of over the counter parts to use.
 
RAT ROD AL said:
I used a scarebird kit on my A100 a while back. Cheap and easy.
If I remember correctly they supply the brackets and a parts list of over the counter parts to use.
Click to expand...

Ten 4 , I looked online and seen they use foreign car rotors so easy to find for years to come .
 
Hello,
I too used the scarebird kit. About 10 years now. Used a duster m/cyl. If I recall , Chevy rotors, calipers and hoses, maybe not the “best “ way to swap to disc brake, as far as keeping it factory, but it works well, and I really have had no issues.
This is a budget 4 door.
 
You will have to modify your supply system. If you have the stock single reservoir master cylinder...it doesn't have enough volume to operate the disc system. You will also need to have a proportioning valve. This is what I have done to mine. There will probably be other suggestions for the installation, but this is how I did mine.
Norm

master cylinder.jpg


master cylinder1.jpg


master cylinder2.jpg


master cylinder3.jpg
 
You can also use the factory setup for that year, or any '66-72 A-body if you want to keep the same small bolt pattern. Lots of other options if you want to change to the big bolt pattern.
 
circlepilot said:
You will have to modify your supply system. If you have the stock single reservoir master cylinder...it doesn't have enough volume to operate the disc system. You will also need to have a proportioning valve. This is what I have done to mine. There will probably be other suggestions for the installation, but this is how I did mine.
Norm

View attachment 1715666695

View attachment 1715666696

View attachment 1715666697

View attachment 1715666698
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Thank you , nice photos
 
cudamark said:
You can also use the factory setup for that year, or any '66-72 A-body if you want to keep the same small bolt pattern. Lots of other options if you want to change to the big bolt pattern.
Click to expand...

I need large pattern front wheels already purchased
 
If you want to use the BBP wheels, (I've been told), you will need a different spindle (hub) and re-drill the disc. I'm sure that someone will correct that information if wrong.
Norm
 
1Badcolt said:
I need large pattern front wheels already purchased
Click to expand...

If you have BBP wheels already the best way to go is to use the factory 73+ disk brakes. You can buy everything you need from DoctorDiff, including the master cylinder, combination valve and any brake lines you might need.

10.95" Front Disc Brake Kit (Stage 1)

You get everything you need and replace the weaker 9" drum spindles with the improved later disk spindles. Not only that, but all the parts are Mopar and intended to work together. The Scarebird kit uses different makes/models of brake stuff together. Not saying it doesn't work, but, some of those parts were never designed to be used together. The 73+ mopar disks are factory designed, tested, and proven.
 
cudamark said:
Aluminum? really? Yikes, not something I'd want to rely on when cornering and braking hard.
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Many new cars, especially high performance ones, use aluminum hubs. Heck a lot of them use cast aluminum hubs and even cast aluminum control arms. How it holds up is simply a matter of design.

The DoctorDiff 13” cobra style brake kit I run on my Duster has billet aluminum hubs. Aluminum construction is usually stiffer and lighter than steel and cast iron.
 
Doesn't surprise me a bit. I just don't like seeing aluminum mixed with steel and/or cast iron and then adding heat. Dissimilar metals don't usually like to play nicely together.
 
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