To nitrous or not?

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Jonnylightening

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Building a 408 for my Aspen.
*5.9 Magnum block
*Scat forged stroker kit.
*ARP Main studs
*Howards Hyd. Roller .565 / .565 lift cam
*Mild ported EQ heads (B3 racing geometry work)
*Torker II Intake
*750 QFT Slayer
*Nitrous plate system
*2500 Hughes Stall converter
*Full manual Rev. VB
*3.91 rear with spool

If I had to guess I'll probably be in the mid 300HP range on motor. Do you guys think I'll be safe to spray it with 150-200 shot? Its going to be a street/strip car. Ill probably limit RPM to 6500. I was trying to use what I had laying around.
 
With forged pistons, rods, and crank, and enough ring gap, that wouldnt scare me at all. That's assuming the nitrous tune and fuel supply is right.
I would rethink that converter choice though.
 
With forged pistons, rods, and crank, and enough ring gap, that wouldnt scare me at all. That's assuming the nitrous tune and fuel supply is right.
I would rethink that converter choice though.
I was worried about the block. Agree with the converter. I had purchased it this past year for my 318. Im not gonna be all out drag racing just test and tune nights. Plans are to get a better converter though for sure
 
150 shot is safe. Dont NEED forged internals, separate fuel sys. Etc. This has been covered many times here
 
150 shot is safe. Dont NEED forged internals, separate fuel sys. Etc. This has been covered many times here
I understand about the forged internals and nitrous. I know you can run 100-150 on stock internals. I was just wondering on the block aspect if I was to hit it with 200 shot. Some say the blocks are only good to 500HP others say 600. If I'm at say 350HP on motor and hit it with 150-200 thatll put me right there at that said point of block failure. I know with nitrous it hits harder then say a boosted setup. Or am I just reading into it too much and over thinking things?
 
Did you leave enough clearance in the ring-gap for a nitrous shot? Stock ring-gap is too little for nitrous?
 
Under a 200 shot you shouldn't need anything special..
It's possible to have progressive nitrous to come on not so aggressive...
Timing-timing-timing....
I have a 100 shot set to go with 150 and 200 jets possible... 410 Stroker cast crank, I-beam rods, forged pistons, and no special ring gap... BUT... A proper fuel system with a set pressure regulator with low pressure switch. Rpm window switch so it can't hit to soon or to high rpm and get into the rev limiter (very bad).
Timing retard set to 2° retard for for every 50hp of nitrous...
 
It'll be fine from a durability standpoint, but what about the camshaft? Generally, nitrous isn't an add on. You build the engine FOR nitrous, not simply bolt it on. Sure, you CAN but it's never as efficient. Also, what about the converter? Is it a nitrous converter? They are very specific. They also need an anti ballooning plate even with low levels.
 
It'll be fine from a durability standpoint, but what about the camshaft? Generally, nitrous isn't an add on. You build the engine FOR nitrous, not simply bolt it on. Sure, you CAN but it's never as efficient. Also, what about the converter? Is it a nitrous converter? They are very specific. They also need an anti ballooning plate even with low levels.
I do in fact have the HD converter with anti ballooning plates. When I had my 318 in it I was planning ahead to run nitrous on that engine. Also as far as cam goes, I talked to racer brown on that issue. Like you said any cam is fine it might not be as efficient but a any cam will work with nitrous. You may have your car setup for "200hp shot" but with your particular cam you may only be getting a true "150".
 
OOOOOooooohh!!! My First Disagreement! Thanks J par! :thumbsup:
Don't worry rookie you'll get more as time passes LOL...
I was going to disagree with Rusty rat rod because of his cam comment but then he came up with a good comment about the torque converter which of course I don't worry about cuz real men have four speeds....
the nice thing about under a 200 shot is you really don't need anything special. Even though I put a lot of safety devices on mine I didn't do any special stuff to the engine. And another great thing about nitrous is it's just that once in a great while kind of thing not having to use it constantly or every time you hit the gas pedal so you want the engine to run the way you want it to run not with a specific nitrous cam as if that's all you're going to do...
 
I understand about the forged internals and nitrous. I know you can run 100-150 on stock internals. I was just wondering on the block aspect if I was to hit it with 200 shot. Some say the blocks are only good to 500HP others say 600. If I'm at say 350HP on motor and hit it with 150-200 thatll put me right there at that said point of block failure. I know with nitrous it hits harder then say a boosted setup. Or am I just reading into it too much and over thinking things?
Couple things: You are probably closer to 400-430hp from what you described NA. I know the block will take more than 500hp, and probably a little more than 600, because my car is around 600hp and still in one piece.

Higher stall would be good so you can spray it out of the hole...if that doesn't matter to you then try it as is. I would start small and work your way up on the tune (spray 100-150 and check plugs for signs of detonation). It is good that you gapped your rings for nitrous use...technically it is not required at or below 150hp shots, but I would rather be safe than have the rings butt together, break, and destroy an otherwise healthy engine. A little extra gap won't hurt everyday use.
 
Look into a SAFE fuel system from NE. YOu can put 114 in that tank. it's a game changer.

Progressive controllers are nice too depending on when you plan to activate this.
 
I do in fact have the HD converter with anti ballooning plates. When I had my 318 in it I was planning ahead to run nitrous on that engine. Also as far as cam goes, I talked to racer brown on that issue. Like you said any cam is fine it might not be as efficient but a any cam will work with nitrous. You may have your car setup for "200hp shot" but with your particular cam you may only be getting a true "150".

I guess I'm paranoid. I like anti ballooning plates on ANYTHING with a non stock converter. I think it's good insurance.
 
To nitrous or not?
WHY NOT!!??...
Honestly I think I read into things alittle too much. I don't have a shitload of money in my engine but for me its a decent amount. Im just trying to see what my limits are so I have an idea on how far not to go. I know some will say "Just send It"!
 
As others above have said, a nitrous controller that can ramp in the hit is a huge addition to a nitrous setup. I will reduce the "hammer" effect on the block that you are concerned about, and also reduce the likelyhood of spinning the tires hard at the hit.
 
The biggest thing with nitrous is....especially with cast or hyper pistons is don't lean it out. I always recommend runnin just a tad fat.
 
Honestly I think I read into things alittle too much. I don't have a shitload of money in my engine but for me its a decent amount. Im just trying to see what my limits are so I have an idea on how far not to go. I know some will say "Just send It"!
I had to look up shitload as I was pretty sure it was somewhere between buttload and a large *** amount LOL...
anyways I hear you on that I don't have excessive money to just blow up motors day after day that's why I have all that safety crap on there...
 
I had to look up shitload as I was pretty sure it was somewhere between buttload and a large *** amount LOL...
anyways I hear you on that I don't have excessive money to just blow up motors day after day that's why I have all that safety crap on there...
I'm new so be easy! Would you mind giving me some examples of the "Safety Crap" I should run? Maybe like what you're running. Id honestly rather spend a few bucks now than thousands later!!
 
I'm new so be easy! Would you mind giving me some examples of the "Safety Crap" I should run? Maybe like what you're running. Id honestly rather spend a few bucks now than thousands later!!
I mentioned quite a few things in post number 8 but definitely a low pressure switch on your fuel line. That way if your fuel pressure drops you're not running too much nitrous and not enough fuel which is very bad. Also I use a window switch which lets me set the perimeters of RPMs that I want the nitrous to work at. Like I have mine set to go off between 3500 RPMs and 5600... Both switches have to be in play for the ground to work on my relay that opens up the nitrous system. And also on the power to the nitro system I have a full throttle switch and a activation button and also that sends an electrical signal to the timing retard... some people just turn a distributor back two degrees for every 50 horsepower of nitrous but I prefer to just pull that timing out when it's needed instead of all of the time...
Totally reminding you that I've never used this system! LOL I've got it all completely set up and I've tested all of the functions but yet find the right time to do it. Maybe this spring... The cars already scary fast without it... In other words fast enough to go to jail without it.
 
You could also do like I did and call Mike thermos of nitrous supply. you can look Mike up he's one of the godfathers of nitrous he's an 80 some year old man who probably has forgotten more than will ever know. very nice on the phone and very interested in what you're doing and very good to talk to. Keep your ears open and have a list of good questions...
 
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