To nitrous or not?

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j par said:
I mentioned quite a few things in post number 8 but definitely a low pressure switch on your fuel line. That way if your fuel pressure drops you're not running too much nitrous and not enough fuel which is very bad. Also I use a window switch which lets me set the perimeters of RPMs that I want the nitrous to work at. Like I have mine set to go off between 3500 RPMs and 5600... Both switches have to be in play for the ground to work on my relay that opens up the nitrous system. And also on the power to the nitro system I have a full throttle switch and a activation button and also that sends an electrical signal to the timing retard... some people just turn a distributor back two degrees for every 50 horsepower of nitrous but I prefer to just pull that timing out when it's needed instead of all of the time...
Totally reminding you that I've never used this system! LOL I've got it all completely set up and I've tested all of the functions but yet find the right time to do it. Maybe this spring... The cars already scary fast without it... In other words fast enough to go to jail without it.
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Thanks a bunch buddy! I'll do some research. Like I said better safe than sorry
 
With That setup Make Sure you Have Fuel Supply to Nitrous 100% right, and timing back a few degree's. No Fails
 
Jonnylightening said:
I'm new so be easy! Would you mind giving me some examples of the "Safety Crap" I should run? Maybe like what you're running. Id honestly rather spend a few bucks now than thousands later!!
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I ran nitrous for quite a few years (12 if I recall correctly). When you're starting out, instead of throwing a bunch of money at it I would make sure you have the following:

1. Good ignition system with a high side rev limiter. This literally save my motor once when I broke a u-joint leaving on the juice.
1a. Good fuel system capable of supporting the highest level of HP that you think you will ever use (i.e. don't use a stock style pump, get a good electric pump...or a dedicated pump for N2O).
2. Cold plugs. I like NGK R5671A-8 for that level (150 shot), it has a non projected tip.
3. WOT switch along with a master arm switch. This is just to make sure the system is only on when you are at WOT...and only on when you want it on.
4. If you want to save a few bucks, just retard the timing manually...annoying I know, but will save a few $$ if you need to go on the cheap. I did this for MANY years, only took a couple minutes at the track.
5. Keep a close eye on your plugs and learn how to read them. They will warn you if something is off on the tune, and possibly avert catastrophe if you pay attention...detonation kills engines very quickly.
6. Use high octane fuel. This is another safety factor around the detonation issue.

All the other things mentioned by folks are nice too, but these are my "must have" things.

Have fun :)
 
flyfish said:
1. Good ignition system with a high side rev limiter. This literally save my motor once when I broke a u-joint leaving on the juice.
:)
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Everyone should have a high side limiter on every engine. Period. For the extremely low cost of a RPm limiter and the high cost of a replacement engine or repair, anyone who doesn't have a limiter is lacking common sense.
 
roccodart440 said:
Everyone should have a high side limiter on every engine. Period. For the extremely low cost of a RPm limiter and the high cost of a replacement engine or repair, anyone who doesn't have a limiter is lacking common sense.
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For nitrous you want a high rev limit window switch to go off before the high motor rev limiter. You don't want to get into a rev limiter with your nitrous on...
 
j par said:
For nitrous you want a high rev limit window switch to go off before the high motor rev limiter. You don't want to get into a rev limiter with your nitrous on...
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Then you want a 12V activated 2 step that comes on when the nitrous is activated.
 
pittsburghracer said:
J par is the Psssss psssssssssss expert in his driveway. Still waiting on ET slips. Lol
Psssssss
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I covered the fact that I haven't used it...
I'd be surprised even myself if I had too many ET slips anymore...
I'll probably spend more time in my kart this next summer...
I've already lost 24 lb in the last 3 months to make weight for the world formula class...
IMG_20210120_142720.jpg
 
flyfish said:
I ran nitrous for quite a few years (12 if I recall correctly). When you're starting out, instead of throwing a bunch of money at it I would make sure you have the following:

1. Good ignition system with a high side rev limiter. This literally save my motor once when I broke a u-joint leaving on the juice.
1a. Good fuel system capable of supporting the highest level of HP that you think you will ever use (i.e. don't use a stock style pump, get a good electric pump...or a dedicated pump for N2O).
2. Cold plugs. I like NGK R5671A-8 for that level (150 shot), it has a non projected tip.
3. WOT switch along with a master arm switch. This is just to make sure the system is only on when you are at WOT...and only on when you want it on.
4. If you want to save a few bucks, just retard the timing manually...annoying I know, but will save a few $$ if you need to go on the cheap. I did this for MANY years, only took a couple minutes at the track.
5. Keep a close eye on your plugs and learn how to read them. They will warn you if something is off on the tune, and possibly avert catastrophe if you pay attention...detonation kills engines very quickly.
6. Use high octane fuel. This is another safety factor around the detonation issue.

All the other things mentioned by folks are nice too, but these are my "must have" things.

Have fun :)
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I have an aeromotive SS fuel pump and regulator with 15gal fuel cell. Would I need dual pumps? I'm also running an MSD RTR dizzy. Would I have to go with say a 6AL box to run rev limiters?
 
Jonnylightening said:
I have an aeromotive SS fuel pump and regulator with 15gal fuel cell. Would I need dual pumps? I'm also running an MSD RTR dizzy. Would I have to go with say a 6AL box to run rev limiters?
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The single fuel pump is fine (looks similar to my Holley black pump), you don't need a dedicated system at that power level. I am not familiar with the MSD RTR distributor, but yes, the 6AL has a rev limiter chip function (and it is the one I use). Not sure how you have your ignition setup, but you can add just a rev limiter to the system more than likely (MSD sells them).

My personal setup when I ran nitrous was Billet MSD distributor, MSD 6AL box, MSD Blaster II coil, and a Holley Black pump. The time when I broke a u-joint coming off the line was a bit of an eye opener...I knew nitrous made a LOT more torque, but having it snap that u-joint like that was freaky to say the least. I reacted instantly, but still herd the motor bounce off the limiter multiple times (BAP,BAP,BAP!!).....can I also say, thank goodness for my bolt in sprag, it played a big role in saving the trans.

Definitely make sure you have all the "weak links" addressed before you use it...if you don't, the little blue bottle will bring those weaknesses to light...in a very expensive way, lol.
 
you don't need nitrous you can make 500 -600 hp na and never have to worry about blowing **** up
 
Nat said:
you don't need nitrous you can make 500 -600 hp na and never have to worry about blowing **** up
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You never have to worry about blowing s*** up if you do it right...
it's the people who don't ask questions and think they can just throw a bottle in the trunk... That blow s*** up...
Generally to get a small block Mopar to have 600 horsepower it's not going to have great Street manners... not to say you can't drive it on the street it's just not generally anything that's in the neighborhood of smooth...
 
Personally if I was switching to MSD and I have I would get one with the rev limiter dials on the actual box instead of having to put what they call pills in that have set Rev limits... And again for $50 you can buy a window switch that only allows the nitrous to come on and off in the RPM perimeters you want. You do not want the nitrous on when you hit your rev limiter... The rev limiter cuts off spark and now all of a sudden you have a double charge of nitrous in your cylinder and it does spark... You can imagine the popping sounds in your exhaust with just a fuel air mixture... Let alone a nitrous mixture...
 
barbee6043 said:
Adding nitrous is like a woman adding silicon to her breasts.
I will prefer the real thing.
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But your OK with adding an aftermarket Aircleaner I bet.... Same thing- Power adder. NOS would have been a big time Day 2 mod in the 70's had it been more mainstream.....

JW
 
Don't forget that you need a mood light to shine through your purge, mandatory. :rofl:
 
justinp61 said:
Don't forget that you need a mood light to shine through your purge, mandatory. :rofl:
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This guy has em' all beat lol. I can't remember what else he puts in the system when he purges.... I am thinking CO2 after the Solenoid....

JW

purge.jpg
 
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OP if you want to help out small business and talk with a great guy call Induction Solutions. Steve is first class. He will tell you what will work best for you. And he won't spend your money like it's going out of style.... Not for your deal anyways. Then you will get it from the source....

JW
 
justinp61 said:
But he doesn't have any cool looking lights, he is fast though.
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Lol..... A bad man right there.... He is one of the easiest going guys you will ever know. For those that think NOS is the easy way out, just ask him. He's earned all those timeslips.....

JW
 
Jonnylightening said:
Building a 408 for my Aspen.
*5.9 Magnum block
*Scat forged stroker kit.
*ARP Main studs
*Howards Hyd. Roller .565 / .565 lift cam
*Mild ported EQ heads (B3 racing geometry work)
*Torker II Intake
*750 QFT Slayer
*Nitrous plate system
*2500 Hughes Stall converter
*Full manual Rev. VB
*3.91 rear with spool

If I had to guess I'll probably be in the mid 300HP range on motor. Do you guys think I'll be safe to spray it with 150-200 shot? Its going to be a street/strip car. Ill probably limit RPM to 6500. I was trying to use what I had laying around.
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that engine should be 400-450hp all day long at the flywheel with what your telling us probably more
 
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