AJ/FormS said

well there you have it; mystery solved.
Fix that and your trans issues should simultaneously disappear.
I would start by making sure that the plug wires to numbers 5 and 7 are not crossed and well separated, and if good, then isolating the cylinders one by one to see if all cylinders are working. You should see a similar rpm drop on every cylinder. After that, a compression test is next. And when you do that, it is best to have all plugs out and the carb blocked WOT. Then crank each cylinder until you get two consecutive same or near same readings. I like to record the number of pumping cycles it took to reach the maximum, cuz if one takes twice as many as the others, you know something is up. Also at this time, you can study the plugs to see if it's worth putting them back in. Sometimes a cracked insulator is very difficult to see, yet the coil will instantly not fire it. Sometimes the engine will idle on it, but will refuse to respond properly as you roll in the throttle. I have never had a new plug do that, but other mechanics say they have seen it.

BTW numbers 5 and 7 wires must NOT be strung together with zipties. This encourages induction firing between them , causing the #7 to fire on the intake stroke, which is bad. Those two wires should never run side by side, and always be separated by a minimum 1 inch. The cheaper the wire, the more important this is. You can cross one wire over the other at less than 1 inch, but the crossing should be as close to 90* as you can make it, and not touching.

May all your luck be Good luck.

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