Holley 870 street advenger - junk?

Bewy said
You do not mention the cam specs, but using a Super Victor, 11:1 CR & a 5200 rpm c'ter suggests it is sizeable. That is going to require a couple of things: plenty of timing at idle [ 24* is probably ok, but could need as much as 50* ] & increased air for idle, facilitated by bypass air, BPA ].
I only use Holleys for door stops, so not sure if your model has adjustable BPA. If it doesn't & you have a sizeable cam, the usual fix is to drill small holes in the t/blades for extra BPA. You say the t/slots are 'properly adjusted'. How was this done? From your description, it does sound like the t/slots are open too far. Putting 0.014" wire in the IFRs might have reduced available idle fuel such that blades had to be opened further to facilitate idle; hence stinky idle. Screwing the mixture screws fully in should stall the engine. If they don't, it is another sign that blades are open too far & idling off the t/slots.
Click to expand...
Bewy said
You do not mention the cam specs, but using a Super Victor, 11:1 CR & a 5200 rpm c'ter suggests it is sizeable. That is going to require a couple of things: plenty of timing at idle [ 24* is probably ok, but could need as much as 50* ] & increased air for idle, facilitated by bypass air, BPA ].
I only use Holleys for door stops, so not sure if your model has adjustable BPA. If it doesn't & you have a sizeable cam, the usual fix is to drill small holes in the t/blades for extra BPA. You say the t/slots are 'properly adjusted'. How was this done? From your description, it does sound like the t/slots are open too far. Putting 0.014" wire in the IFRs might have reduced available idle fuel such that blades had to be opened further to facilitate idle; hence stinky idle. Screwing the mixture screws fully in should stall the engine. If they don't, it is another sign that blades are open too far & idling off the t/slots.
Click to expand...
Bewy said
You do not mention the cam specs, but using a Super Victor, 11:1 CR & a 5200 rpm c'ter suggests it is sizeable. That is going to require a couple of things: plenty of timing at idle [ 24* is probably ok, but could need as much as 50* ] & increased air for idle, facilitated by bypass air, BPA ].
I only use Holleys for door stops, so not sure if your model has adjustable BPA. If it doesn't & you have a sizeable cam, the usual fix is to drill small holes in the t/blades for extra BPA. You say the t/slots are 'properly adjusted'. How was this done? From your description, it does sound like the t/slots are open too far. Putting 0.014" wire in the IFRs might have reduced available idle fuel such that blades had to be opened further to facilitate idle; hence stinky idle. Screwing the mixture screws fully in should stall the engine. If they don't, it is another sign that blades are open too far & idling off the t/slots.
Click to expand...

The transfer slots are just barely visable from underneath, the engine responds happily to the mixture screws. I haven't drilled the butterflies yet. I have come from mechanical injection on methanol, a 750 methanol carb, and now this petrol nightmare. I regret selling my previous set up's.