Power steering gear box leaks (pictures)

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Mako21

Mako21

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Hi. I’ve been slowly repairing leaks on my Dart.

I used the paper towel trick and wrapped all hoses to see where my leak is coming from. All was dry but I found a major leak and took some pictures of the location. It seems the leak is from the upper portion of power steering box where the steering shaft connects.

Would someone be able to tell me the automotive technical term for this so I can begin planning my repairs. It is leaking really bad. Pretty much squirting out. From my research it seems like a major repair.

Thank you.

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Looks like the "input shaft seal". It can be changed with the steering box in the car but its not easy to reach.

You have to knock the roll pin out, loosen the bracket under the dash holding the steering column and pull the column out.

One way is drill a very small hole in the seal, and insert a screw that will "push" the seal out. Then install a new seal. I went through the steering column hole in the firewall to remove and install the seal.
 
Yeah like 66 said it can be done. It's a pain. How is your gear box does it feel ok. It's a pain chasing all these leaks isn't it.
 
If you decide to get the box rebuilt, Firm Feel has an upgrade for that seal that really works. Steering ends up a lot tighter too. Recommend Stage III level.
 
Mako21 said:
Hi. I’ve been slowly repairing leaks on my Dart.

I used the paper towel trick and wrapped all hoses to see where my leak is coming from. All was dry but I found a major leak and took some pictures of the location. It seems the leak is from the upper portion of power steering box where the steering shaft connects.

Would someone be able to tell me the automotive technical term for this so I can begin planning my repairs. It is leaking really bad. Pretty much squirting out. From my research it seems like a major repair.

Thank you.

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I use this method also.
Drill a small hole for a sheetrock screw. (I think a 1/8" drill bit will work). Insert screw (I used a sheetrock screw) and it should come right out. Use a deep well socket to tap the new one in.
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1972 PLYMOUTH SCAMP 5.2L 318cid V8 Steering Gear Worm Shaft Seal | RockAuto

Your seal will be a different size than mine if it's older I believe.
 
The repair itself is pretty easy...it's the preliminary stuff you need to do to get there that makes it a pain.
You can do it in your driveway in a few hours. Just follow what 66fyssh and Scamp Rhonda posted and you'll be good to go.
 
It does sound pretty intimidating, but I’m willing to try it. Can this be done with a basic set of wrenches? Or any special tools I’ll need to purchase? I’ll check the “how to” section of this forum for some more guidance.

As for the “dropping” the steering, I assume this is to pull the steering shaft forward through the firewall to get clearance to reach the seal?

Car feels ok driving (very loose) with a fair amount of play in the steering wheel.

I don’t have a factory service manual but was able to get a Haynes one off eBay.

If anyone else is following any of my other posts, first on the list is my shift shaft seal on the tranny (just waiting on the tool delivery) and this will be next.
 
Not sure what you mean by dropping the steering as you don't need to touch any steering components. You're just removing the steering column from inside the vehicle. You haven't said what your car is but it's as simple as driving out the roll pin on the column coupling at the steering box, disconnecting the column wiring terminal coupling under the dashboard, removing the 3 column bracket bolts at the firewall from inside, removing the column bracket to dash bolts that hold it up and sliding it out through the drivers door. You can leave the steering wheel on it.
I don't think I'm missing anything but someone else will chime in if I am.
A manual would def help you in all aspects and you can download one for free if you want to.
Good luck.
 
Ok thanks. That clarifies a lot. I’m pretty new at this but have the time and patience. It’s a 76 Dart I bought from an original owner that sat a long long long time. Hope to get at it in the next couple weeks.

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From 1972 -1976 I must have replace 100 or so of these on Hillsborough County Sheriffs cars. They were all Coronets. I used a tinny sharpened flat head screw driver and drove it between the outer seal area and the housing and just pried the seals out. Never damaged a sel housing. Of course this was after dropping the column and driving the roll pin out and prying the steering coupler back. Piece of cake.
 
I’ve downloaded and read the factory manual from 1974 That addresses the removal. Doesn’t seem too bad and I did a practice run with the car before disassembly.

I did run into questions hoping they can be answered.

1. In the first picture with the red arrow , that is the pin I’m too punch out. For reinstallation, just punch it back in? Any grease applied to it on reinstall?

2. I’m unclear (picture 2) as to which part of the shift assembly is disassembled. If it’s where I drew the red arrow, how do I get that fitting off without damaging it? It’s definitely not a nut or bolt which I expected.

3. Once the assembly underhood is removed and continue to the interior disassembly, must l angle and pull it completely out the firewall, or can I just extend it back enough the get to the seal removal and installation and push it back forward?

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Mako21 said:
I’ve downloaded and read the factory manual from 1974 That addresses the removal. Doesn’t seem too bad and I did a practice run with the car before disassembly.

I did run into questions hoping they can be answered.

1. In the first picture with the red arrow , that is the pin I’m too punch out. For reinstallation, just punch it back in? Any grease applied to it on reinstall?

2. I’m unclear (picture 2) as to which part of the shift assembly is disassembled. If it’s where I drew the red arrow, how do I get that fitting off without damaging it? It’s definitely not a nut or bolt which I expected.

3. Once the assembly underhood is removed and continue to the interior disassembly, must l angle and pull it completely out the firewall, or can I just extend it back enough the get to the seal removal and installation and push it back forward?

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#1 yes, yes, no. Use a pin punch of the appropriate size. Try not to lose the pin. No grease.

#2 Not sure. Someone else knows this.

#3 Just pull back enough to get the clearance you need.
 
If you do end up removing the steering box to disassemble and replace rubber parts, the one trick I didn't know when I first tried it is that you need to assemble all the thin round plates, then turn the input shaft ccw and hold it there to keep the plates tightly in place as you slide the innards in. If not, the plates slide down and get out of place. That was ~1988 on my 1969 Dart. After trying 3 times putting it in the car and taking out and seeing it wasn't steering right, I gave up and got a rebuilt one. On a later pass in 2010 on my 1965 Dart, I must have been smarter since I figured that out and works fine. But, you can change the input shaft and sector shaft seals in-car, but not the top sector shaft adjusting nut (rarely leaks). For the sector shaft, you remove the Pitman arm, then the circlip. The trick to the seal out is to run the engine and actuate the power steering (best w/ wheels down to load it). The pressure that builds up should blow the seal out, which also helps sweep out any crud.
 
Scamp Rhonda said:
#1 yes, yes, no. Use a pin punch of the appropriate size. Try not to lose the pin. No grease.

#2 Not sure. Someone else knows this.

#3 Just pull back enough to get the clearance you need.
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I believe the shift rod is just pushed into a bushing there and will pry out pretty easily...you might be able to pull the column back enough to get the clearance you need but it was easier for me to pull the whole column right out of the car. Your that far already and then it's completely out of the way.
 
I've seen steering gear worn to the point where shaft travels up and down through the seal. Shaft diameter worn down where the seal runs too. New seal may only lessen a leak. Good luck with it. With a column shift you probably will loose linkage/neutral safety switch adjustment. Rarely does the column bolt back in exactly where it was. Once done, if the car wont start in park, it likely will start in neutral. For most, that linkage adjust point is under the car. Good luck with it.
 
Well I’m trying to do this now. I can’t push the gearshift linkage out of the grommet holding it on the steering shaft. I’ve been pushing really hard on it and wiggling it. What am I missing? Any tricks? I lubed it up too. I’m basically pushing it toward the rear of the car trying to pop it off.
 
Mako21 said:
Well I’m trying to do this now. I can’t push the gearshift linkage out of the grommet holding it on the steering shaft. I’ve been pushing really hard on it and wiggling it. What am I missing? Any tricks? I lubed it up too. I’m basically pushing it toward the rear of the car trying to pop it off.
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Can you move the shifter up and down so so the lubricant can get in there? Do you have enough room to get in there with a hammer. It probably needs to be jarred a bit to break it loose. Don't be afraid to hit that rod. It's pretty strong.
 
Big screw driver or small pry bar between and pry it out? Channel lock plier to force it back in again.
 
Ok I’ll get more aggressive with it later this week and report back. Didn’t know I could put that much force on it. There’s is a small steel brake line behind it, so I have to be careful not to nick it.

I ordered a Gates #350620 seal from Oreilys and it doesn’t arrive till Wednesday anyhow.
 
Just to update this thread, I’m in the process of doing it and so far so good.

I purchased a 5/16 pin punch to get the roll pin out. It wasn’t too hard to do, but the power brake booster makes it a little difficult to get a good blow on it.

Taking a break and moving onto the interior, I was really surprised to find this button under my dash though, a little hidden out of sight up under the column.
I pressed it and the engine turns over. I guess somewhere down the history of the car someone wired it to start without turning the key? The only reason I can guesstimate someone would do it is bypass the neutral safety switch.

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Mako21 said:
Just to update this thread, I’m in the process of doing it and so far so good. I was really surprised to find this button under my dash though, a little hidden out of sight up under the column.
I pressed it and the engine turns over. I guess somewhere down the history of the car someone wired it to start without turning the key? The only reason I can guesstimate someone would do it is bypass the neutral safety switch.

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Well thank God it wasn't a terrorist bomb! Probably had trouble with the ignition switch or starter relay and some point.
 
Just pull the coloum,, its so easy. Your probably, in the end, going to have to rebuild the gear. Just pulled mine, same problem, it's almost 50 yrs old, along with the pump and hoses, my pump is leaking too. Starter button, maybe the previous owner had a really hot engine and wanted to spin the engine and then turn the ign on, just like I do.
Yeah, having someone rebuild this stuff is expensive. Just sent mine to Steer&Gear.
They are busy people, almost a 2 month back log.
 
Wow 2 months. That tough, especially with Spring season around the corner.

So I successfully changed out the seal and will put it all back together Thursday.
Does the gear spline at the end of the shaft receive any special multipurpose grease? Looked like a little axle grease might work there.

Also, any tips putting it all back together or just the reverse order of install?

Can I top off the reservoir with the Lucas power steering stop leak since I have a bunch left, or properly put Power Steering fluid in it?

And most importantly, is there any way to test if the new seal fixed the leak prior to putting everything back together? I hate to have to punch the roll pin back in only to have to drive it back out later.

Thank you to all you guys for helping me get this done my first time. I can’t imagine what shop hourly labor would be doing this.
 
Lucas is a good product. If you put a few once’s that wouldn’t hurt a thing. Then top it of with PS fluid.
 
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