What's the best modern master cylinder for my 1974 Duster?

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cruiser

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Hi guys and gals. Like many people, I'm fed up with my endlessly leaking master cylinder. I had both the original master cylinder and power brake booster professionally rebuilt. They both work fine, but the master cylinder continues to leak. Maybe from the gasket, maybe from the (new) rear seal - I don't know. All I know is that every Chrysler master cylinder that I've ever owned leaked, and I'm tired of dealing with it. Can anyone recommend a high quality modern MC that has the plastic screw on tops, that works well and doesn't leak, that's is easy to install? Any ideas greatly appreciated.
 
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If you have a mildly modified engine with headers producing a lot of under hood temps you might benefit from one of these to stop cooking the seals in the M/C/


https://th.bing.com/th/id/R550df81ecb96180db68039ac2a8f13ae?rik=2A5TIreS7vxkeA&riu=http://ep.yimg.com/ay/chucker54/master-cylinder-heat-shield-1.jpg&ehk=h2ustsNsAPcWWV1laCFKD7+EpwYRZ4ky9v/pxN3L5qI=&risl=&pid=ImgRaw
My car has the slant six with a bone stock exhaust system. Stays really cool under the hood, actually.
 
Since I have been driving, 1969, I have bought a reman just one time. All the others, I re-manufactured myself. There is nothing to it, and none of the ones I ever did leaked, unless the lid was not clamped down adequately, which I adjusted with a pliers.
I have one still in use since 1994.
Another from 2004. But this one is running silicon which is really hard to keep from sweating. Since the silicon does not attack paint, I just wash it down periodically.
To be fair, I have always run a booster, so the sealed end sits inside the booster, and water cannot get to it, so it does not rust there.
That rear seal is not supposed to be under pressure and should never leak brakefluid. Air pressure outside is always higher than what the seal should be seeing on the other side.
Check out this image; if you are getting brake fluid out the back, it is most likely because your piston is over stroking and the Compensating port is dumping back there. If you seem to have a long pedal stroke then I would bet money on it. You might need to put the pedal back where it belongs.
Check out the supplied image.
In this drawing the C-ports are the same as the inlet port.
Imagine the rear piston stroking forward until the inlet port dumps behind it.This would be bad and AFAIK, can only happen if the rear wheel cylinders are over-traveling, which is not supposed to happen, as there are limiter stops in there to prevent that. So then, it would fall on the front system over-traveling. With disc front brakes this is not likely to happen except in the case of air in the system, or catastrophic failure of a brake hose. When this happens the rear piston moves waay forward until the pin on the front of it, (you can just make it out inside the spring, in the provided image) contacts the back of the front piston. You can clearly see that if this was to happen, the C-port would dump fluid behind the front seal of the rear piston. That fluid now collects in that cavity, and is pushed back and forth on every brake application. There is no seal on the back of that piston, so it is bound to find it's way, sooner or later, past the rear guide, and then the only thing keeping it there is the dust seal at the back. Since the M/C is set on an an angle and low at the back, eventually the fluid will find it's way out.
Now; I'm not saying this is your problem, cuz there are other more common reasons for leakage at the back. But I am saying that if your pedal is simultaneously low, that it could be, especially if you say that every M/C that you have installed, has done it.
Your pedal should be high and hard, no exceptions. And if you have a booster, then on the first start-up of the day, your pedal should drop about an inch or a lil more, under your foot, as the vacuum comes into it.
main-qimg-5e3c058ab13ad145ed604dfe05d70357.jpg
 
If you have a mildly modified engine with headers producing a lot of under hood temps you might benefit from one of these to stop cooking the seals in the M/C/


https://th.bing.com/th/id/R550df81ecb96180db68039ac2a8f13ae?rik=2A5TIreS7vxkeA&riu=http://ep.yimg.com/ay/chucker54/master-cylinder-heat-shield-1.jpg&ehk=h2ustsNsAPcWWV1laCFKD7+EpwYRZ4ky9v/pxN3L5qI=&risl=&pid=ImgRaw

this was a factory big block A body item //even ma mopar knew
I made my own version of that heat shield but for the purpose of catching the leaking fluid from the master cylinder.
P.S. the shield did not stop it from leaking.
 
I made my own version of that heat shield but for the purpose of catching the leaking fluid from the master cylinder.
P.S. the shield did not stop it from leaking.


it was just a thought because it solved MY problem
later found out that they (MA MOPAR) had used M/C shields on the MAX wedge cars also...
 
The old cast-iron ones always leak from the stamped-steel covers. That is why every used old Mopar in the junkyard has a rusty firewall around the MC, since glycol fluid is a great paint remover. That also lets moisture in to corrode the innards of the brake system. Many here use a 1980's Dodge truck MC, which is what the Dr Diff kit linked uses. Except Dr. Diff also sells those custom-made with a smaller 15/16" bore. That is desirable if manual brakes and you switch to front disks.

I use a ~1999 Plymouth Breeze (Cirrus, Stratus) MC in all 3 of my 1960's Mopars. I bought a 4 to 2 bolt adapter plate on ebay ($30, same as Dr. Diff's). One car (64 Valiant 225) is manual brakes. I posted w/ photos. The brake pedal winds up in the same place. I used a dust bellows from a manual MC. Another is on a C-body vacuum booster. Another is on a 1990's Intrepid booster, mounted on Dart booster brackets (see avatar). The Breeze MC is good because a tiny 7/8" bore which makes an easier pedal for disks. Insure you get the ABS version (2 ports, same dbl-flare fittings as in old Mopars).
 

Same as what I run. Easy. And if they caps do leak at any point they sell replacement caps and seals.

The old cast-iron ones always leak from the stamped-steel covers. That is why every used old Mopar in the junkyard has a rusty firewall around the MC, since glycol fluid is a great paint remover. That also lets moisture in to corrode the innards of the brake system. Many here use a 1980's Dodge truck MC, which is what the Dr Diff kit linked uses. Except Dr. Diff also sells those custom-made with a smaller 15/16" bore. That is desirable if manual brakes and you switch to front disks.

I use a ~1999 Plymouth Breeze (Cirrus, Stratus) MC in all 3 of my 1960's Mopars. I bought a 4 to 2 bolt adapter plate on ebay ($30, same as Dr. Diff's). One car (64 Valiant 225) is manual brakes. I posted w/ photos. The brake pedal winds up in the same place. I used a dust bellows from a manual MC. Another is on a C-body vacuum booster. Another is on a 1990's Intrepid booster, mounted on Dart booster brackets (see avatar). The Breeze MC is good because a tiny 7/8" bore which makes an easier pedal for disks. Insure you get the ABS version (2 ports, same dbl-flare fittings as in old Mopars).

Got a part number for that 7/8 master?
 
The old cast-iron ones always leak from the stamped-steel covers. That is why every used old Mopar in the junkyard has a rusty firewall around the MC, since glycol fluid is a great paint remover. That also lets moisture in to corrode the innards of the brake system. Many here use a 1980's Dodge truck MC, which is what the Dr Diff kit linked uses. Except Dr. Diff also sells those custom-made with a smaller 15/16" bore. That is desirable if manual brakes and you switch to front disks.

I use a ~1999 Plymouth Breeze (Cirrus, Stratus) MC in all 3 of my 1960's Mopars. I bought a 4 to 2 bolt adapter plate on ebay ($30, same as Dr. Diff's). One car (64 Valiant 225) is manual brakes. I posted w/ photos. The brake pedal winds up in the same place. I used a dust bellows from a manual MC. Another is on a C-body vacuum booster. Another is on a 1990's Intrepid booster, mounted on Dart booster brackets (see avatar). The Breeze MC is good because a tiny 7/8" bore which makes an easier pedal for disks. Insure you get the ABS version (2 ports, same dbl-flare fittings as in old Mopars).

The Dodge truck MCs are usually 1 1/8", I have one with the hydroboost I have on my Duster now. The Dr Diff 1 1/32" ones are likely 80's Diplomat ones and I know the 15/16" ones are Dakota ones. The thing you have to know about it is that they likely will not have the retaining groove for the pedal pushrod. I know the 15/16" Dakota one I have that's not on the car now had the groove machined in. I'm sure Dr Diff did that.
 
I used the Baer master cylinder for my Duster project.
DSC_3675 (Large).JPG
 
Hi guys and gals. Like many people, I'm fed up with my endlessly leaking master cylinder. I had both the original master cylinder and power brake booster professionally rebuilt. They both work fine, but the master cylinder continues to leak. Maybe from the gasket, maybe from the (new) rear seal - I don't know. All I know is that every Chrysler master cylinder that I've ever owned leaked, and I'm tired of dealing with it. Can anyone recommend a high quality modern MC that has the plastic screw on tops, that works well and doesn't leak, that's is easy to install? Any ideas greatly appreciated.
probably already mentioned ...but the aluminum w/plastic Reservoir "Mopar Performance" type made by strange eng.
 
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