How bad did I eff up?

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adriver

adriver

Blazing Apostle
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It's a 86 police 318 with 4323345 heads. Runs good.
Unsure of millage, but a lot.
Maybe 150K or more.
Trying to get another year out the motor and changed the head gaskets as a precaution only.
Fel-pro kit.HS8553PT14
With these ARP bolts.
Forgot the washers that came with the bolts.
Didn't realize I left them off till I had crawled all over the engine to torque them.
Damn.
My excuse is it's my daily driver and I was in a hurry to get it back on the road.
Everything went well.
I'm hoping to leave it alone.
The ARP bolts have a bigger mating surface under the head anyway then the factory bolts.
And I don't think they bottomed.
So I thought I would just run it and see?

Thanks to our motor wizards.


ARP-144-3602
Cylinder Head Bolts, High Performance, Hex Head, Chrysler, Small Block, Kit
(Mfr. #: 144-3602)
 
What's the big deal about putting the washers on? Not like you're gonna disturb the heads. Do it one at a time and done.
 
I agree with the above do them one at a time.the drag on the bolt head will be more without the washers and ultimately your bolts are not clamping as tight with the torque value without the washers to reduce the drag.
 
The ARP bolts have a small fillet under the head. That's why they have the washers. The washers only go on one way, also. The flat side down.
 
**** it. You said you only want another year out of it anyway. It's a 318... hell you could leave bolt loose and it will still run fine. Those head gaskets will be fine. Drive on. You would not believe what I have done to those engines over the years. It's a washer, trust me it will not know the difference.
 
Of course, the consensus isn't what I wanted to hear.
So if I pull one at at time is the suggestion to torque each one back 100 foot pounds as I reinstall them?
Some are hard to reach without crawling on the engine and I'm old and weak.
 
If you just have to put them in... then start in the middle. Remove on bolt at a time and torque it to spec. Work your way out in an X pattern one bolt at a time. The factory didn't use them so really for a street ride you will be fine.
 
Your first mistake was to change the head gaskets.....you stated you did it as a precaution, so apparently they were not leaking / blown, so no real need to be changed

As for the washers, pull one bolt at a time, put the washer on it correctly, snug it up but not torque it, when all the washers have been installed, then torque them up in proper sequence.....yes you have to lay on the engine, it's uncomfortable, pull the air cleaner stud out of the carb before you impail yourself
 
JBurch said:
Your first mistake was to change the head gaskets.....you stated you did it as a precaution, so apparently they were not leaking / blown, so no real need to be changed

As for the washers, pull one bolt at a time, put the washer on it correctly, snug it up but not torque it, when all the washers have been installed, then torque them up in proper sequence.....yes you have to lay on the engine, it's uncomfortable, pull the air cleaner stud out of the carb before you impail yourself
Click to expand...

I may have had a water leak somewhere and did my due diligence to determine including a pressure test.
But since I was unsure and didn't want to wait till I had damaged the bottom end I bit the bullet.
Thanks for making me admit that and kicking me when I'm down.
 
Hellrats said:
**** it. You said you only want another year out of it anyway. It's a 318... hell you could leave bolt loose and it will still run fine. Those head gaskets will be fine. Drive on. You would not believe what I have done to those engines over the years. It's a washer, trust me it will not know the difference.
Click to expand...

Yeah to hell with the next owner. It could be one of us.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah to hell with the next owner. It could be one of us.
Click to expand...
:rofl:
No chance.
But seriously. I joke and like Bundy tell people they will bury me in this car.
We got History.
I've got my cars planned out for the grand kids.
Life turned out and it all fits in a synchronicity kind of way if they appreciate it.
But people are funny. I use that word in the odd sense and not humorous.
I nice antique Mustang given to a grandchild with no mechanical interest.
A jock sniffer.
He sold the car rather than letting another grandchild have it that would have appreciated it.
Some people just aren't sentimental.
 
Hellrats said:
If you just have to put them in... then start in the middle. Remove on bolt at a time and torque it to spec. Work your way out in an X pattern one bolt at a time. The factory didn't use them so really for a street ride you will be fine.
Click to expand...

You're exactly right, too. The difference is though, that the APR bolts are designed to be used with a washer. I agree 100% with your method though.
 
By the way.
This is the factory cast intake that came on the engine.
Whatever the Cresent shaped holes are on the heads don't go to anything on the intake.
What are they?
My block off plate on the egr.

20210208_101836.jpg
16127977365696552693606424479117.jpg
 
adriver said:
I may have had a water leak somewhere and did my due diligence to determine including a pressure test.
But since I was unsure and didn't want to wait till I had damaged the bottom end I bit the bullet.
Thanks for making me admit that and kicking me when I'm down.
Click to expand...

I did not mean to "kick you while you were down" I thought it was "odd" that you were changing head gaskets as a "precaution only" when you did not state any reason to change them; now you state that you "may" have had a leak, yet a pressure test did not confirm a leak, at that point I would have taken a pass on changing the gaskets.

I would have reused the factory head bolts if I had done the gaskets, they are a good fastener.

Make no mistake, I sometimes "do preemptive repairs" myself.

I'm old too, yet I consider it a win when I can still haul my sorry a$$ up off the floor after crawling around under the car.
 
adriver said:
By the way.
This is the factory cast intake that came on the engine.
Whatever the Cresent shaped holes are on the heads don't go to anything on the intake.
What are they?
My block off plate on the egr.

View attachment 1715685954 View attachment 1715685960
Click to expand...
Looks like the heat cross over. My two cents, ARP put the washers in for a reason. I understand it sucks, but it would be better to just redo it now and be done with it.
 
Well I just pulled the intake back off.
Good thing.
I did a shite job on the heavy thing.
Heavy and should have used the engine hoist.
Cork gasket on the rear got wonky.
73 factory exhaust have to come back off too to get the bolts.
But on the up side that's easy now.
New hardware.
 
adriver said:
Well I just pulled the intake back off.
Good thing.
I did a shite job on the heavy thing.
Heavy and should have used the engine hoist.
Cork gasket on the rear got wonky.
73 factory exhaust have to come back off too to get the bolts.
But on the up side that's easy now.
New hardware.
Click to expand...

Now's the time for a cool old school aluminum intake. What carburetor are you using?
 
adriver said:
Well I just pulled the intake back off.
Good thing.
I did a shite job on the heavy thing.
Heavy and should have used the engine hoist.
Cork gasket on the rear got wonky.
73 factory exhaust have to come back off too to get the bolts.
But on the up side that's easy now.
New hardware.
Click to expand...
Found out the washers were left off, went to fix that and found what could have been an issue. Stuff happens for a reason man. Hopefully you will get it sorted quick and painlessly.
 
Ideas on the intake gasket?
If blue I'll buy new ones.
The kit came with the metal ones.
The heat passage is pretty clogged anyway.
My concern is which one seals better.
Not buying new.

16127986731284775774402910464573.jpg


16127987258132827356041929695366.jpg
 
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