I was going to leave it stock...

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ChrisRomello

ChrisRomello

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I started pulling apart my 360 to do a repaint and prep for dress up. Engine has less than 10k on a rebuild according to the PO and it shows but I guess they didn’t put enough or the proper lube on the cam when it was installed...
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Put in an order today and this is what I went with:
COMP Cams CL20-222-3 COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits | Summit Racing
I wanted only a slight upgrade that wouldn’t need a bunch of supporting mods since I’m just building a cruiser with a little bit of spirit.
 
Cam break in is an important step after rebuild.
Looks like that step was skipped.:mad:
 
Sometimes even a proper break in isn't enough.
I wiped 2 Comp Cams in a row even with proper break in with the cam and lifters lubed properly.
There are some things that you can do to improve your chances of success. Check to see if the lifters spin free in the bores. They HAVE to spin or they are very likely to fail.
Make sure that you have fuel and spark before the first fire. Cranking and cranking to get gas to the carburetor wipes the lube from the cam and lifters within seconds.
 
If buddy didn't know how to break in a cam, what else didn't he/she know? For the cost of a set of gaskets, I'd tear it down and check everything myself. But hey, that's me!
 
ChrisRomello said:
I started pulling apart my 360 to do a repaint and prep for dress up. Engine has less than 10k on a rebuild according to the PO and it shows but I guess they didn’t put enough or the proper lube on the cam when it was installed...
View attachment 1715686876
View attachment 1715686877

Put in an order today and this is what I went with:
COMP Cams CL20-222-3 COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits | Summit Racing
I wanted only a slight upgrade that wouldn’t need a bunch of supporting mods since I’m just building a cruiser with a little bit of spirit.
Click to expand...
Great cam choice. Also sometimes these days you can op for the mfg. to extra harden or nitrate the cam. A bunch of soft **** out there. Make sure to put in a bottle of engine break in lube or use break in oil. Run it at 2000-2500 for 20 minutes upon start up too.
 
CFD244 said:
If buddy didn't know how to break in a cam, what else didn't he/she know? For the cost of a set of gaskets, I'd tear it down and check everything myself. But hey, that's me!
Click to expand...
Yep! I already have the gaskets. I checked everything else over today and it looks great! It was only the one lifter that failed, I’m going to clean and flush everything thoroughly before re-assembly
 
Roller lifters or gtfo, cuz it'll likely happen again

FYI that ain't 10k miles. Mine grind it through to lifter internals in under 1000 miles.

Edit: I hope that's not dirt all over everything
 
I have never used Break In Oil. I have done a lot of reading about it lately. Maybe I was just lucky. I will use it going forward.
 
Has anyone used Shell Rotella T 15 w 40. I know it's a diesel application, but I wonder if it has the "good stuff" that used to be in oil years ago. I us it in my Kubota, Cummins, and Mercedes but haven't researched if for gas engines
 
CFD244 said:
Has anyone used Shell Rotella T 15 w 40. I know it's a diesel application, but I wonder if it has the "good stuff" that used to be in oil years ago. I us it in my Kubota, Cummins, and Mercedes but haven't researched if for gas engines
Click to expand...
The "Good Stuff" has been reduced in the diesel oils
 
Rotella T 15-40. Used it for years in fleet service. Had a bunch of Mack trucks.Also used the same oil in all of the company cars and gasoline trucks.If I add it all up,millions of miles.Only had 1 cam go flat in a 305 Chevy engine at 150,000 miles.The engine was remarkable clean inside.
Now that said, I know the government had made oil companies change there zinc/phosphorus amounts in the last few years.I do believe it to be a good oil.
I have also heard that the oils are ok AFTER break in.I do use Lucas break in additive during first run rebuilds.
 
CFD244 said:
Has anyone used Shell Rotella T 15 w 40. I know it's a diesel application, but I wonder if it has the "good stuff" that used to be in oil years ago. I us it in my Kubota, Cummins, and Mercedes but haven't researched if for gas engines
Click to expand...
I don't trust it enough for break in, and I'm a little skeptical of it after break in too. I think the levels are too low, so now I use VR1 oil. It's a little more expensive, but I've got one flat tappet with close to 20k miles with no issues using VR1.
 
Look for High Zinc/phosphorus, best for reducing wear in flat tappets.
Theres been some detailed threads here on Fabo.
Personally, I use Valvoline VR1.
 
5w/40w shell rotella t6 synthetic
zinc levels are good/good price
use it for everything ! buy it by the 5gal pails !!!
PRODUCT DETAILS
Part No. 550019886



Shell Rotella® T6 5W-40 Diesel Engine Oil is a full synthetic motor oil that features exclusive Triple Protection Plus technology, formulated with fully synthetic base oils plus advanced additives to protect against wear, deposits and oil breakdown PLUS better low temperature flow and increased fuel economy performance, without compromising durability, compared to conventional SAE 15W-40 oils.

Product Features:

  • Provides 1.5% improved fuel economy performance compared to SAE 15W-40 oils
  • Triple Protection Plus formula combines fully synthetic base oils with advanced additives for excellent equipment protection and long engine life
  • Formulated with additive technology that protects against the effects of soot, dirt and other contaminants
  • Engineered with shear stability to resist viscosity loss and maintain optimal engine oil pressure
  • Suitable for diesel-powered vehicles from tractor/trailers to classic cars and heavy-duty diesel pickups that allow an SAE 5W-40
  • Specifications, Approvals and Recommendations: API: CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4; ACEA E9; Allison TES 439; Caterpillar ECF-2/ECF-3; Cummins CES 20086; 20081; Detroit Fluid Specification (DFS) 93K222, 93K218; Ford WSS-M2C171-F1; JASO DH-2; JASO MA/MA
they even mention classic cars now !!
 
jazak5 said:
5w/40w shell rotella t6 synthetic
zinc levels are good/good price
use it for everything ! buy it by the 5gal pails !!!
PRODUCT DETAILS
Part No. 550019886



Shell Rotella® T6 5W-40 Diesel Engine Oil is a full synthetic motor oil that features exclusive Triple Protection Plus technology, formulated with fully synthetic base oils plus advanced additives to protect against wear, deposits and oil breakdown PLUS better low temperature flow and increased fuel economy performance, without compromising durability, compared to conventional SAE 15W-40 oils.

Product Features:

  • Provides 1.5% improved fuel economy performance compared to SAE 15W-40 oils
  • Triple Protection Plus formula combines fully synthetic base oils with advanced additives for excellent equipment protection and long engine life
  • Formulated with additive technology that protects against the effects of soot, dirt and other contaminants
  • Engineered with shear stability to resist viscosity loss and maintain optimal engine oil pressure
  • Suitable for diesel-powered vehicles from tractor/trailers to classic cars and heavy-duty diesel pickups that allow an SAE 5W-40
  • Specifications, Approvals and Recommendations: API: CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4; ACEA E9; Allison TES 439; Caterpillar ECF-2/ECF-3; Cummins CES 20086; 20081; Detroit Fluid Specification (DFS) 93K222, 93K218; Ford WSS-M2C171-F1; JASO DH-2; JASO MA/MA
they even mention classic cars now !!
Click to expand...
I wouldn't use synthetic for a new break in.
 
I always like to check lifter spin before installing the intake. With hyd cam install the valve train and spin the oil pump with a drill and turn the motor over by hand. You should see oil pressure on the gauge and up to each head. Put a sharpie dot on each lifter. If they spin with turning the motor over by hand and with oil pressure I would be happy. With solids no need for oil pressure, just set the lash and see if they spin. If they spin at hand crank speed they will live unless trash from somewhere else flows in and jams them up later. Sorry for your loss.
 
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