18x9.5 +12

MuuMuu101 said
I'm still perplexed how you fit that much tire under there. I have to find someone who has a fender roller or buy one for myself. I'm scratching my head how I'm going to get 265/35/R18's under my Dart.

In the back it's because you've got a Dart. The Dusters/Demons/Dart Sports have a full 1" extra space going to the quarters. Even with the 1/2" spring offsets 275's can be really tight on the Darts.

In the front they should fit fine, I had very little issue with the 275/35/18's beyond the front lower corner of the fender. The fender roll was only because of how much I've lowered my car, and like Craig has shown the only rubbing I really ever got was going in and out of parking lots- bascially the combination of having the wheels turned and suspension compression at the same time. Since I've rolled and pushed the fenders they're well clear. I've considered going to 285/35/18's, but I'd need new rims up front since the 18x9's are too narrow for that.

Craig Burriss said
After rolling the fender as flat as I could, the tire now clears pretty good at the ride height I plan on running. But when I set the suspension on the bump stops, it starts to hit the fender as the steering is approaching full lock.
View attachment 1715684871
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Keep in mind, this is not the final product. It started raining before I could finish the one side I’ve been working on, but it’s to a point now where it would probably never rub. I just used some random hardware I had laying around to see if this would even work. And it does!
I attached a turnbuckle to the unrolled part of the fender and the inner fender piece. This allowed me to loosen the turnbuckle until the fender was pushed out just enough.
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Every picture was taken with the suspension resting on the LCA bump stops. Once I add another turnbuckle to the front side of the wheel well, I don’t see it ever rubbing anywhere.
I may not even need the other turnbuckle, so I’m going to wait until I drive it with this setup before I drill anymore holes.

Looking good!!! :thumbsup:

Great work on the fenders, they look awesome. Great idea with that turnbuckle as well. Not sure I'd leave that on my car, but since the suspension is on the stops and there's clearance I suppose there's no reason not to. You could do it up nicer with a pair of 1/4" heims and a threaded tube, although that would be more expensive of course.

DionR said
What's the 5mm's you lose to your brakes? The thickness of the rotor at the hub?

Curious if you know if your brake kit has any built in offset beyond the 73+ brake track width. I know that AndyF's kits pushed the wheels out some extra amount at some point, probably when he started using his own hub. As I recall, this was so that late model 17" Mustang wheels were easier to use and put the wheel/tire in about the same place as it would be on a stock car. I know there was cross pollination between Andy and Cass, but I don't know if Cass's hubs are based on Andy's design. If they are, there might be some additional offset built into your brakes that negates some more of the positive offset on your wheels.

Just curious if you have looked into that at all.

It's the brake kit, yes. The DoctorDiff 13" cobra style rotor kit adds about 5/16" to the track width, or basically 5mm. I'm not sure if its the hubs or the rotors or where it comes in. Andy's original Viper kit added like an extra 1/2" to the track, but that was before the aluminum hubs that are used now.

I've spoken with Cass about it, the current 13" kits only add 5/16" compared to the track width of the stock 73+ disks (although that track is wider than the SBP cars). I try to always give my offsets relative to the 73+ factory disks.