Heads, how much gain?

-
The only time you run the iron head is if you must according to the rules or you think you just gotta have that iron head.

Listen to what THE HEAD MAN is saying /\ /\ /\


I thought you had to cut out a section of the frame rail and weld in those spring relocation boxes?

That is an inboard kit. The offset shackles bolt in and you just need to weld a new perch.

I had the offset shackles and went to a inboard kit. Not really because I needed it but because it fell in line with other changes I was making so it made sense.
 
Listen to what THE HEAD MAN is saying /\ /\ /\




That is an inboard kit. The offset shackles bolt in and you just need to weld a new perch.

I had the offset shackles and went to a inboard kit. Not really because I needed it but because it fell in line with other changes I was making so it made sense.

Didn't know about the offset shackle kit. How much more room does that give? Seems like its still tight between the inner and outer fender. I can't roll the fender lip because its got some filler in it.
 
Didn't know about the offset shackle kit. How much more room does that give? Seems like its still tight between the inner and outer fender. I can't roll the fender lip because its got some filler in it.

I believe 3/4"

Don't need to roll it or trim it.

A 26x10.50 fits. And yes, it's tight but it fits. Now Actual tire size varies based on manufacturer but check out the specs on a Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pro 26x10.50. That will fit.
 
I believe 3/4"

Don't need to roll it or trim it.

A 26x10.50 fits. And yes, it's tight but it fits. Now Actual tire size varies based on manufacturer but check out the specs on a Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pro 26x10.50. That will fit.

What wheel and offset and stuff
 
well, the problem with the edelbrock performer RPM intake is that ive been told by many that it will not fit under the hood of a 440 dart. They say its too tall and cant fit the air cleaner..Is there another intake out there that will perform closely to the edelbrock that will fit?
Try a holley street Dominator intake.
 
Didn't know about the offset shackle kit. How much more room does that give? Seems like its still tight between the inner and outer fender. I can't roll the fender lip because its got some filler in it.

Save ur coin and do it right the first time , and go for 240 trickflows, already cnc ported and can be found for under $1000 apiece , wont need anything done to them !
3/4'' OFFSET SPRING HANGARS AND TRIMMING THE LIP IUNDERNEATH WILL GIVE YOU A PRETTY GOOD TIRE .
A far as welding the spring perches , you can very carefully cut one in two , lenghth wise on a big band saw, and weld the pieces (half on one side, the other half on the other side, right up against ur existing perches , using the orig. to keep the factory angle right . Then redrill a couple holes 3/4'' over to fit the u bolts , I`ve done it and it works great .
 
I think the OP may have it figured out...........the thread is 6+ years old!
 
Anybody know where there are 240 TF heads, because I need a pair & cannot find any...
 
The engine in my dart is a 1975 440:
.030 over
Trw L2355 six pack pistons
MP 284/484 cam installed 2 or 4 degrees advanced. (cant remember, been a while)
Bone stock 452 heads
Compression is 9.4:1
Stock intake
Demon sizzler thermoquad
Hooker 1 7/8 fenderwell headers
3000 stall convertor.

Thinking of getting some heads. I would not be able to afford any porting to the new heads so they need to be good flowing right out of the box compared to my stock 452 heads. SO, if i got a set of new edelbrock heads or something similar, what kind of HP and torque gains could i expect? They say the edelbrocks and all these other heads right out of the box outflow the stock heads ported to the max...Is that true?
If you want heads you can bolt on right out of the box, than the Trickflow 240 would be your best bet. They will make all the power you want in that combo without porting.
 
Brodex B1/BS. I believe the best direct swap head on the market? They will out flow the 452 at max port right out of the box. You put a decent port on them? Forget about it. The only problem is that one is going from an open 88cc chamber with the 452 to a closed 65cc chamber with the B1s. This WILL significantly raise compression. Obviously cannot run with any domed style piston that I know of. Even flats at near zero deck will most likely get you past 91 octane use.
 
Just be happy with what you have if you don’t have $3-5000 worth of play money to dump.... which it doesn’t sound like you do. Let the people who have play money chase every 50+ horsepower. The next guy will always have more time, $, and Hp anyway... not that there is anything wrong with that. Besides... you can’t just upgrade one thing. One upgrade always leads to complications up or downstream anyway. I totally get it, but just my .02.
 
Just be happy with what you have if you don’t have $3-5000 worth of play money to dump.... which it doesn’t sound like you do. Let the people who have play money chase every 50+ horsepower. The next guy will always have more time, $, and Hp anyway... not that there is anything wrong with that. Besides... you can’t just upgrade one thing. One upgrade always leads to complications up or downstream anyway. I totally get it, but just my .02.
I have welded up my ported 452s. 3rd time was enough. You can pay up front? Or pay later. Remember how old the cast is on those heads? Even if treated tame.
 
So what I hear people saying is that if I were to buy some Eddy aluminum heads, I should pay some extra money to have some porting work done even if I am not going to race. I have been thinking about buying a pair.
 
So what I hear people saying is that if I were to buy some Eddy aluminum heads, I should pay some extra money to have some porting work done even if I am not going to race. I have been thinking about buying a pair.
I think Eddys may be the best value. Especially for a performance street build. If you have a good and trusted head machinist/builder? I would buy bare. And let the shop buy the valves and assemblies. They may already have a set of stainless valves (As an example) That may work much better with their port job. It also gives them more options than just dropping off Edelbrock's parts and assembly. Im not suggesting just giving the shop free reign on decisions? But to allow some flexibility. JMO of course.
 
I have two 440s with iron heads the first is a 452 built in 88 with 452 heads that have been pocket ported, port matched and cut to 80 cc. With 2.14/1.81 valves. With 9.5 cr and Mopars .557 mec cam it makes 525 hp and 545 tq.
The next one has 915 heads with more bowl work and 2.18/181 valves with 68cc chambers and 12.5 cr. It is setup for e85 and makes 645 hp 620 tq with a Comp 602/590 cam, I believe having seen several compreable builds on the dynamic with TF heads I would gain around 70 hp upgrading to them on this combination.
These two 440s have a sentimental value to me so I stick with the way they were built 30 years ago, but I'm working on a new short block that will get TF 240s.
I guess my point is you can make power with iron heads but it takes money, time if your the one doing the work and you better know what you're doing and more cam as in more duration you need to hold the valve open longer to fill the cylinder.
You also need to play with advancing the cam because you don't want peak power to happen at a point where the heads have stalled, the second 440 peaks hp at 6300 rpm and the heads stall around 6700 rpm.
Aluminum heads are easy power!
 
I have two 440s with iron heads the first is a 452 built in 88 with 452 heads that have been pocket ported, port matched and cut to 80 cc. With 2.14/1.81 valves. With 9.5 cr and Mopars .557 mec cam it makes 525 hp and 545 tq.
The next one has 915 heads with more bowl work and 2.18/181 valves with 68cc chambers and 12.5 cr. It is setup for e85 and makes 645 hp 620 tq with a Comp 602/590 cam, I believe having seen several compreable builds on the dynamic with TF heads I would gain around 70 hp upgrading to them on this combination.
These two 440s have a sentimental value to me so I stick with the way they were built 30 years ago, but I'm working on a new short block that will get TF 240s.
I guess my point is you can make power with iron heads but it takes money, time if your the one doing the work and you better know what you're doing and more cam as in more duration you need to hold the valve open longer to fill the cylinder.
You also need to play with advancing the cam because you don't want peak power to happen at a point where the heads have stalled, the second 440 peaks hp at 6300 rpm and the heads stall around 6700 rpm.
Aluminum heads are easy power!
I will be advancing the cam on my 451 B-block stroker. I went from the 452s 88cc to the B1 65cc and got about 12.7:1 compression. I too metered a carb to run E-85. I have been struggling with ignition timing. Cam is set at centerline. (I wish Chrysler didn't use symbols! Lol.) If I remember right the next mark to the right is 15 degrees advanced? If you have some incite you would like to share?
 
So what I hear people saying is that if I were to buy some Eddy aluminum heads, I should pay some extra money to have some porting work done even if I am not going to race. I have been thinking about buying a pair.


I run them. 345cfm on the intake and with a mild cam and compression made 600HP@5900
 
Are you talking ignition timing or cam timing?
Actually both. But starting with cam. I have always, and seen as well, cam degreeing at the centerline mark. (I'm very sure there are reasons to use the advanced/retard marks. Or why have them?) I just never had. My question? What can one expect by advancing? With relation to lets say ignition timing. And/or carb settings? ( I'm guessing you are going to say none. That advancing cam setting is only to move RPM power band earlier?) But I suspect it will affect ignition timing as well?
 
Last edited:
Actually both. But starting with cam. I have always, and seen as well, cam degreeing at the centerline mark. (I'm very sure there are reasons to use the advanced/retard marks. Or why have them?) I just never had. My question? What can one expect by advancing? With relation to lets say ignition timing. And/or carb settings? ( I'm guessing you are going to say none. That advancing cam setting is only to move RPM power band earlier?) But I suspect it will affect ignition timing as well?
My point was that to make power with iron heads you need more duration but in order for you to use it you might need to advance the cam to keep the power peek happening before the heads stall thats it.
 
I run them. 345cfm on the intake and with a mild cam and compression made 600HP@5900
Who did the porting work? I am at about 370 HP with iron J heads with 2.02 intakes and a Comp 268 XE cam, headers and a complete MSD ignition setup. I'd hate to spend $2,000 on a pair of ported Eddy heads and have an unnoticeable power increase.
 
Crane cams claimed that if you adv or ret the cam, it should be a minimum of 4* if you want the butt-meter to feel the difference. Unless you are duplicating a proven combo, there is no right or wrong cam position & experimentation will be reqd to get it perfect.
 
-
Back
Top