Hydraulic cam for slant

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65Valiant_NC

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So I currently do not own anything with a slant in it but I have had a half ton pickup with one and my Valiant used to have one. I read the slant section because I really enjoy the content. So I see lots of cam threads but have not seen one about hydraulic cams. Anyone running one in a car or truck and care to share specs? Share why they stuck with the hydraulic over mechanical? Thanks.
 
Switching from mechanical cam to hydraulic is not a simple process with a slant. You need the (factory) special lifters, pushrods, and rocker arms. Plus I think some other things need to be done.
 
IMO, the slant six did not do well with the conversion to hydraulic lifters. They never ran "quite" right and had problems with valve train ticks. I've always felt the reason for that was the fact that the lifters barely get pressurized oil. The slant six oils "backwards" compared to other engines. Oil goes from the block to the head, into the rocker shaft, through the rocker, into the pushrod and finally into the lifter. It's just not a good setup. As mentioned, you cannot just change over to hydraulic. You need the pushrods, rockers and the rocker shaft is even different, not to mention, of course, the camshaft and lifters themselves.
 
I've been running a Comp Cam hydraulic shaft with lifters, pushrods, etc in my rebuilt 198 for over 3 years.. It performs beautifully! I always keep clean oil in the sump and monitor everything carefully, but Chrysler didn't make the change to hydraulic lightly. I believe that it was helpful for emissions at the time, but if it was a big fail for durability or performance they would not have gone forward. Solid lifters are THE ticket for many applications, but after 30 years of wrenching adjusting my valves with the car "running and hot" is something that I'm glad to leave in the rear view mirror. I mostly just drive my cars stoplight to stoplight. ( I DO still adjust the valves on my aluminum slant in the 63.)
 
waguy said:
if it was a big fail for durability or performance they would not have gone forward.
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I didn't say it was either one. I said this "IMO, the slant six did not do well with the conversion to hydraulic lifters. They never ran "quite" right and had problems with valve train ticks." and I stand by it. That statement does not equate to "a big fail for durability or performance" and if you think so, might I suggest brushing up on your English comprehension?

Your slant six has an upgraded camshaft and better than stock lifters. That's not what I was referring to, OR what I said. I was talking about the changeover that CHRYSLER did from the factory and I stand by it, because I've seen and worked on a lot of them when they were new. They made valve train noises. They didn't run very smooth. They got less than stellar mileage, all compared to the solid lifter engines. It's all true, whether you like it, agree with it or believe it. Some of them were lucky and gave decent service, but none had the reliability (made noises) or smooth running characteristics of the solid lifter engines and I believe that was simply because Chrysler never did a redesign on the oiling system on the slant six to take advantage of the hydraulic lifters. That's my opinion from my experience and I'm stickin to it.
 
waguy said:
I've been running a Comp Cam hydraulic shaft with lifters, pushrods, etc in my rebuilt 198 for over 3 years.. It performs beautifully! I always keep clean oil in the sump and monitor everything carefully, but Chrysler didn't make the change to hydraulic lightly. I believe that it was helpful for emissions at the time, but if it was a big fail for durability or performance they would not have gone forward. Solid lifters are THE ticket for many applications, but after 30 years of wrenching adjusting my valves with the car "running and hot" is something that I'm glad to leave in the rear view mirror. I mostly just drive my cars stoplight to stoplight. ( I DO still adjust the valves on my aluminum slant in the 63.)
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Oh and just an FYI, if you or any of the other boys would like a performance hydraulic camshaft for a slant six, I have one on the way in a pile of parts I just acquired. It a Camcraft camshaft. I don't know what the specs are, but I will give someone a smokin deal on it. It's used but it's in good shape. I have an email in to Camcraft with the part number. Hopefully they will answer back with some info. I will have that, lifters (I don't know if they're numbered) pushrods and complete rocker train. I'm not going hydraulic, so someone can get a good deal on it all since I don't need it.
 
65Valiant_NC said:
So I currently do not own anything with a slant in it but I have had a half ton pickup with one and my Valiant used to have one. I read the slant section because I really enjoy the content. So I see lots of cam threads but have not seen one about hydraulic cams. Anyone running one in a car or truck and care to share specs? Share why they stuck with the hydraulic over mechanical? Thanks.
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I stayed with hydraulic on the slant in the 83 D150 when I rebuilt the truck and motor back in 2012. The OE cam in the D150’s is really lame. I had it re ground by Oregon Cams, it is a 212 and 206 @ .050, on a 105 LSA, lift is .460’s
I stayed with a smaller cam as I was wanting torque and HP in the lower rpm ranges, raised compression to 8.5 static, mild porting, os valves and a Holly 2280 carb, free flowing exhaust with dual Dutra’s. Runs real nice, in OE condition with its 104 factory HP rating the truck would top out at about 75 mph, now it will easily run 95.It has the OD a833 transmission, nice lively truck.
 
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Take her easy there RRR - you didn't figure into my comment in any way. I was just adding my experience and knowledge. Guess I'll just shut up - thanks dude.
 
waguy said:
Take her easy there RRR - you didn't figure into my comment in any way. I was just adding my experience and knowledge. Guess I'll just shut up - thanks dude.
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Hay dude, I'm just trying to carry on a conversation like friends sittin around the shop pokin fun at each other. I thought it was a good discussion. If you want to hide under the table, that's your business and loss.
 
I might e interested in cam if you find out more about it
 
My experience is all with stock slants so far, but it says that the solid lifter engine is worth having to occasionally deal with adjusting the rockers,alot better running engines,
The hydraulic lifter ones don't run "bad" but don't have the power that the solid lifter engine does.
Now build it up , change the cam, up the compression (not stock anymore) and all bets are off. The hydraulic lifter ones that I have dealt with anyway, are doggier engines as a whole.
 
volaredon said:
My experience is all with stock slants so far, but it says that the solid lifter engine is worth having to occasionally deal with adjusting the rockers,alot better running engines,
The hydraulic lifter ones don't run "bad" but don't have the power that the solid lifter engine does.
Now build it up , change the cam, up the compression (not stock anymore) and all bets are off. The hydraulic lifter ones that I have dealt with anyway, are doggier engines as a whole.
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The emission package that hit about the same time as the hydraulic cam package did not do engine performance any favors. By the late 70’s all the engines were dogs, had nothing to do with hydraulic cams.
 
DART66GT said:
I might e interested in cam if you find out more about it
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I measured the lift tonight. It's only .409 lift, so it's nothing to write home about. It's a fantastic core though and would make a nice regrind. OR it could be run as is. It's in really good condition.
 
I wish that changing to a hydraulic camshaft was easy in a slant. If so, I might change my 1964 225 to hydraulic so I could use Rhoads leak-down lifters as I do in my 1965 Newport 383 and 1965 Dart 273. The later was a fairly easy swap from the OE solid lifters, though required shorter ball & cup pushrods. I recall the slant lifters are the same diameter, but doubt a Rhoads lifter would work since hydraulic cam slants don't have oil ports in the lifter bores, relying instead on oil flowing down the hollow pushrods.

Another thing to consider is changing to an earlier "drool tube" head. The reason is that you can change lifters with the head in place. Your later "peanut" head requires removing the head to get the lifters out. But, verify heads interchange. That is something owners fuss about in my 2002 3.8L pushrod V-6 Chrysler engine, that you must remove the heads to change lifters.
 
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